I need to buy a P220 4.4" barrel in .45acp.

I am a casual shooter, who probably gets to use the firearm 2-3 times a year at best.

The primary use is range ammo and recreational target shooting/plinking- not competition or handloading.

I LOVE BarSto products and Irv Stone has been great to me.

However, I would like to hear your thoughts on whether to just buy a factory barrel or to step up for the BarSto barrel, and why?

Thank you for chiming in.

There's about a $70 difference between SIG and Bar Sto for drop-in barrels (per their respective websites), and there's not a darn thing wrong with factory barrels - especially if you may wind up reselling the pistol at some point in the foreseeable future.

If you specifically wanted a Bar Sto (drop in or fitted), I would have no argument with you just because they're great barrels. For your purposes, though, it sounds like a factory drop-in barrel would be far more than good enough.

May I ask why you need to buy a P220 barrel?

Understanding why you need the barrel may help provide a better answer to your question.

Edit: OK I see you have a P220 in .38 Super that you have been modding. I'm assuming you want to put the barrel into that.

If you had to ask...just stick with the factory barrel and save yourself the potential headaches of dealing with fitting and whatever else.

I assume the original barrel that came with your gun is no longer present or serviceable hence the need for a replacement.

I had a Bar-sto barrel in my P229 for a while, but eventually went back to the factory tube. While the Bar-sto was everything it was supposed to be, the tighter tolerances also meant fairly frequent jams. Maybe the competition barrels are best for, well competition.

Barsto barrels are well made, but have very tight throats. I had repeated problems with ammunition that worked fine in my Sig factory barrels sticking bullets in the lands of my Barsto conversion barrel. I ended up selling it rather than re-work all my reloads (and several factory loads) to accommodate it's overly picky eating habits.

If you're looking to build a precision bullseye gun and develop a specific load for that particular firearm, you might get slightly better accuracy out of the Barsto. If you want a gun that will work reliably with any saami-spec ammo you feed it, and still be more accurate than 99.9% of humanity will ever be able to shoot it, stick with factory.

Hi All,

Thanks for the feedback so far. For those who are now reading the thread, please keep adding your thoughts!


Why do I need a 4.4" .45 barrel? I have a full-sized slide on it's way from Sig that is cut for the red dot sights and need a barrel for the slide.

My current P220 in .45 is a Carry model, so it has the 3.9" barrel/slide combo.

With the new slide I can put it on that frame and it should have no problems.

I understand that putting it on the .38Super frame would also require a new locking block, but I don't think there is a difference in the locking block between full sized and carry [for Stainless Steel frames], is there?

I am increasingly moving to red dots for handguns due to my eyesight, and this lets me use .45acp with a red dot.

[btw- legion .45acp slides were on sale at Sig today. Not sure when it started or ends.]

quote:

Originally posted by bczrx:
My current P220 in .45 is a Carry model, so it has the 3.9" barrel/slide combo.

With the new slide I can put it on that frame and it should have no problems.

I you certain this will work? I know that you cannot put a P226 slide on a P229 frame as they use different locking blocks. The hole for the takedown level is in a different position to accommodate the different locking blocks.

SiG factory replacement barrel is my vote. No fitting required, drops right in. BarSto won't due much to help you once their product has been fit to your handgun.

Great price for an optic ready P220 Legion slide at $299

The tilting barrel motion for a full length differs from a carry length barrel. I would return the slide you ordered from Sig post haste, without even opening the package, and get the correct length slide.

From Grok (AI)...

"Yes, a full-size SIG Sauer P220 slide can work on a P220 Carry frame, as the frames are fundamentally compatible in terms of rail dimensions and locking mechanisms. The key consideration is the locking insert, which ensures proper timing and function for different slide and barrel lengths. The full-size slide requires a corresponding locking insert to match its barrel length (typically 4.4 inches) compared to the Carry’s shorter 3.9-inch barrel. As long as the appropriate locking insert is used, the slide swap should function properly.

However, there are a few caveats:

The full-size slide will extend beyond the Carry frame’s dust cover, potentially affecting balance and aesthetics.

Trigger mechanisms (DA/SA, DAK, or SAO) are housed in the frame, so the slide swap doesn’t impact the trigger system, but you should ensure compatibility with the specific model (e.g., 10mm models use different locking inserts and are not interchangeable with .45 ACP or other calibers).

Some users have reported successful swaps without changing the locking insert, as seen in discussions about caliber exchange kits, but for optimal reliability, matching the correct insert is recommended.

Always test-fire after swapping components to confirm function and safety. For further details, you can refer to SIG Sauer’s official parts documentation or consult a gunsmith."

quote:

Originally posted by bczrx:
With the new slide I can put it on that frame and it should have no problems.

Is that according to Sig? Or is it a guess?

I will also be looking into a new locking block for my frame if needed. I am calling Sig today.


The reason for the slide is the optics cut- as I am having trouble seeing iron sights clearly.

No one makes an optics cut for the Carry/compact slide Sig P220, and I don't want to modify my original one either.

As for looks, I will put the factory slide on if I care about looks, or keep the longer one on for MY ability to see the sights and hit the target. The gun is already cerakoted so it doesn't look original anyway.

Thanks for the insights and concerns everyone!!!!

Just spent half an hour on phone with Sig to clarify the locking block question. Of that, the tech guy spent 10 minutes or so to run my serial number, the part number for the locking block for my [carry 3.9" barrel stainless] p220, and then look up what other handguns that [my] locking block was also part of the build.

Turns out that the current Sig P220 .45acp locking block was for 3.9 or 4.4" barrels, and stainless or aluminum frames. His words were that it was for every P220 or P227, in either barrel length, in either frame material.

But they don't sell them. I'd have to send it in for fitting if I got it from them.


He also said he found no references to 4-dot vs 5-dot in the Sig information about the locking blocks.


BTW, I inspected my P220 Stainless Carry [from 2012] and it had the 4 dots on top of the locking block.


Sounds like my plan just requires an upper- no change of block needed.

Unless I wanted to put it in my .38Super P220 frame, I guess. [hmmm]


Oh, 4MUL8R- as to the slide extending beyond the carry frame, you are right- sort of.

The 4.4" slide extends beyond the carry frame about the same amount a 4.4" slide extends beyond the FS frame that it came with. The dustcovers are within mils of each other in terms of length.

By changing to the 4.4" upper I effectively have a 4.4" P220 in my hand, as the Carry frame is basically a full-sized frame with a compact slide on it.

Sure, the balance is different. And having the stainless steel frame with long beavertail means the balance is already different from my aluminum frame full size P220 or P226 anyway.

This would not be swapped for a 'carrying' situation. It would be done for either range fun or maybe nightstand duty. For those reasons I don't really worry about the difference in balance/weight.

I am not as committed as many are to the idea of train with what you carry and don't use anything else. Nothing wrong with that mindset. It can lead to the safest handling and more reliable use of the firearm, and potentially the best accuracy.

I just prefer the pleasure of diversity- be it in swapping between pre-WW II handguns to modern striker fired, and semi-auto through various revolvers as well. They are all so fun I can't limit myself to only one platform. Thus the change in balance/weight is a non-issue for me.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: bczrx,

Barsto makes excellent barrels
However I would advise against using them to fit it

I bought a barsto 239 9mm conversion barrel (unable to find factory 239 9mm barrel) and had Robert Burke fit it
I would suggest the same

Resolved!

Answer: Neither.

I did some snooping around and found another member had listed their Jarvis P220 barrel for a great price.

So Jarvis wins.

If I run into ammo sensitivity I will go to a Sig OEM P220 barrel.

Thanks for insights and thoughts you all shared!

He went to Jarvis...

No Pics, but the P220 Legion slide/Jarvis barrel upper looks good on my P220 elite Carry stainless frame.


Keep in mind my P220 Stainless Elite Carry is not stock looking. I've refinished the frame in Tungsten ceraKote, due to some pitting in the steel frame under the wooden grips and in the web area of the backstrap. I dressed those areas down to remove as much as possible so there wouldn't be little craters.

My P220 is tungsten frame with black ceraKote slide and controls, and an E2 grip. [and SRT and short reach trigger]


The legion slide looks a bit different, but I like the colors enough to no want to have it blasted and cerakoted black like my other slide.


Also, it fits the dustcover/rail area just fine, with no gaps. and it adds about .6 ounces to the gun's weight, if I recall accurately.


This summer, when I have time and good light, I'll take some pics of it with both slides on for comparison.


thanks for all the thoughts and insights you've all shared. I am constantly learning more with your help. Thank you!

Either. Both good to go.

BarSto is great company.

Pistol barrels are an area in which nhSig excels.

Jarvis, good choice. I actually have a Jarvis barrel in addition to the OEM barrel. Never had a problem with it.