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Sig P226 Slide works on newer frame, but not older frame Login/Join 
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Picture of bmartin165
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I bought a P226 slide with an RMR cut. The slide works on a newer frame that I have, but not on a German built all stainless frame. Has anyone else had this happen?

The slide fits both frames, but the trigger will not function correctly on the older model.


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Posts: 470 | Location: Houston, TX | Registered: June 26, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Freethinker
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Confused

That’s pretty strange. I found that slides from aluminum frame P226s won’t fit on one stainless frame I have, but I’m trying to imagine how the trigger wouldn’t work if the slide goes on properly. The trigger will work even if the slide isn’t attached to the frame.

What exactly is the problem?
(The only thing I can think of as a possibility is that the safety lever that’s in the frame doesn’t engage the safety lock that’s in the slide properly. But I don’t know why that would be either.)




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Posts: 48020 | Location: 10,150 Feet Above Sea Level in Colorado | Registered: April 04, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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The trigger worms fine on the all stainless model with the slide it came with. When I put the slide with the RMR cut on it the trigger will not go all the way back.

I actually have two Stainless sigs and the newer slide will not work on either of them.


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Posts: 470 | Location: Houston, TX | Registered: June 26, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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OK a couple of thoughts. On all the 226 slides I have had milled the spring for the drop safety is an issue as the cut pocket intrudes on it. I've seen several solutions to this including different springs, etc. But normally just using the sealing plate and the stock spring works, but it would depend on who milled it? Is there an RMR mounted on this slide? Is there an RMR sealing plate? Is the spring still actually there? Insufficient spring tension in this are can lead to issues like you describe.


“So in war, the way is to avoid what is strong, and strike at what is weak.”
 
Posts: 11284 | Registered: October 14, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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My guess is that you need to order a newer safety lever. Can’t say for sure but I would be willing to put money on it. If you order one there are different ones for SRT, non-SRT and DAK triggers.
 
Posts: 333 | Registered: January 12, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Oriental Redneck
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quote:
Originally posted by paceac:
My guess is that you need to order a newer safety lever. Can’t say for sure but I would be willing to put money on it. If you order one there are different ones for SRT, non-SRT and DAK triggers.

I think this is the nail on the head.


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Posts: 28334 | Location: TEXAS | Registered: September 04, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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For whatever reason, it looks like at some point the position of the firing pin block in the slide changed slightly which necessitated a change in the safety lever. The part of the safety lever that pushes up on the firing pin block is longer on the old safety lever and seems to hit the rear portion of the slide behind the firing pin block on newer slides instead of just the firing pin block. If you look at the new safety lever the part that pushes up on the firing pin block is shorter so as to not contact the slide. The new safety lever should make your old frames work with both new and old slides. Compare the top of your safety lever to pictures of new ones for sale to see if you notice a difference. Let us know when you figure out the problem.
 
Posts: 333 | Registered: January 12, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Thanks for the suggestions. I will see if a newer safety will resolve this issue.

I do not have a rmr mounted at this time. There is a plate cover on the slide.


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Posts: 470 | Location: Houston, TX | Registered: June 26, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Would you mind sharing where you found the slide already cut without the optic, I would like to try out my Holosun on my P226 but don't want to molest the original slide.
 
Posts: 266 | Location: Central Florida | Registered: December 30, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Buy that Classic SIG in All Stainless,
No rail wear will be painless.
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I have a pile of SIG P226's with the German stainless steel frames. Some are from the factory in 9mm, a few in .40, and one SAO in .357 SIG. (as in the way they were originally produced)

I have no SIG's with aluminum alloy frames and I can't speak about personal experience there.

The German stainless steel P226's I have are split about 2 to 1, DA/SA and SAO.

When I bought the SAO in .357 SIG, it came with a like new Nitron finish complete 9mm top end. I thought cool, this is a three caliber gun.
(9mm using the like new top end, .40 with a barrel change, and the original .357 SIG)

Nope, the 9mm top end doesn't fit on the SAO .357 SIG frame. I can't see why it doesn't fit. But it just doesn't fit. All the slides appear identical dimensionally, except the breech face.

I took that like new 9mm Nitron top end and tried it on a German stainless frame that was a factory .40 S & W. It fits like a factory install and operates flawlessly.

The ejectors are different part numbers. (9mm & .40/.357 respectively) But I see no difference in the way they operate.

All modern P226's are supposed to use the same locking insert.

Due to tolerance stacking, that's the way it is. I may pick up another P226 locking insert and try the 9mm top end on the SAO .357 SIG frame.

Sometimes they fit, and sometimes they don't.

I'm guessing here, but I assume when being assembled at the factory, if they try and install a slide and it doesn't fit, they reach into the bin and keep trying more slides until one does fit.

I wasn't upset with the seller who sold me the SAO .357 Sig and the 9mm top end. He said he had never tried fitting the 9mm top end on the .357 SIG SAO gun.

But it did work on another P226 so that was good enough for my purposes.



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Posts: 1608 | Registered: December 14, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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