Nostalgia strikes me from time to time so I will tote a 1911. Currently a full size Ruger SR1911. Shoots great!
Problem:
It has an overtravel adjustment screw in the trigger. Which backs itself out after 300 rounds or so. I retighten it but it backs out all over again. I have tried to apply Vibra-Tite to it but the damn tiny screw is a PITA to manipulate and get the juice onto it. Seems a pointless addition on a carry gun to me anyway. I am thinking of just removing the screw and being done with it.
Would removing the stupid screw affect the safe and proper operation of the trigger? I cant see how it would but I have never had this issue before, so any input is appreciated! Thanks in advance!

Many/most don't have them, removing it shouldn't be an issue.

quote:

Would removing the stupid screw affect the safe and proper operation of the trigger?

It should would work just like a normal trigger but it may have some over travel. I've heard of people recommending the removal on the screw for "fighting" handguns just so it does not vibrate "in" and cause the gun to not fire when the trigger is pressed.

When I adjust a trigger set screw I use Loc Tite 290 and apply it after the screw is set. The Green 290 is a "wicking" type, it will penetrate into the threads after assembly so you don't have to put it onto the threads before. Never had one get loose after using it.

But you should be fine removing it.

Remove the screw, get a decent trigger job by an experienced 1911 'smith, and enjoy the benefits of minimal overtravel and minimal takeup without the hassle of the unnecessary set screw.

As others have said, it’ll be fine, just may have a bit more over travel.

They usually have red loctite from the factory. The green wicking loctite isn't a bad idea.

I use blue on ones I set myself, but it's best to remove the screw all the way and coat the threads, then reinstall.

Also, be sure the hammer half cock and safety notch (if present) clear the sear with the trigger pulled all the way. You can set an overtravel screw to drop the hammer off the main hooks but still
drag on the half cock and ruin the sear.

quote:

Originally posted by YooperSigs:
I have tried to apply Vibra-Tite to it but the damn tiny screw is a PITA to manipulate and get the juice onto it.

I don't know about Vibra-Tite. I use Loctite Blue on such things. Initial setup time is about ten minutes. Usually plenty of time to manipulate the part(s).

quote:

Originally posted by Lefty Sig:
They usually have red loctite from the factory.

Are you certain of that? I'm no gunsmith, but I can't recall seeing Loctite Red recommended for anything. Not even grip bushings.

Loctite Red is meant for permanent installations. It requires 500°F heat to release it.

quote:

Originally posted by Lefty Sig:
I use blue on ones I set myself, but it's best to remove the screw all the way and coat the threads, then reinstall.

This ^^^^^

Except you don't really need to literally coat the threads, per se. A little dab'll do it.

I've yet to have had anything I assembled with Loctite Blue, or even Purple, come loose until I wanted it to.

I am going to remove the screw when it starts to back out again. And shop around for a better trigger.
Thanks for the input!

quote:

Originally posted by YooperSigs:
I am going to remove the screw when it starts to back out again.

You know it's going to back out anyway, so why not just remove it now and be done with it.

I have 10-8 Performance triggers in all my 1911s. Their ot screw is anchored into the trigger and adjustment is made by filing down the protruding screw incrementally.

And to answer the original question, no issues with removing the screw entirely.

As Chris mentioned, screw removal should not cause any problems. The obvious solution here is remove the screw, reinstall, check for proper functioning and head for the range. See how it works for you. If it's unacceptable, just buy another trigger OR do the following.

Alternatively, you could first secure the screw with a VERY strong thread locker. You'd probably have to use heat to remove it. However, if it's adjusted the way you like it, who cares? One time deal. Before using any thread locker, the areas MUST be properly degreased.

I've been shooting for over 50 years. Nearly all my experience has been with defensive handguns, not competition. While some stuff will make a difference in competition, I've never found small things to have any impact on my defensive handgun performance on the range.

Even had a Sig Mosquito once, WORST trigger I've ever owned. Could still shoot very good groups at defensive distances with the POS. While the trigger sucked, the ergos were better than any pistol I've ever owned. Go figure.

I'll chime in....

If you are in a firefight and the screw backs out after 300 rounds... I suspect you are in a much worse situation that the loose screw could create.
Sorry... just had to throw in the joke.

Sounds to me like the answer is to remove it or you could try the stuff mbinky suggested: Loc Tite 290

I would go ahead and yank it now, but I Vibra-Tited it again. Maybe it will work this time. If not, adios!

I really prefer the design of the Harrison and 10-8 triggers because you simply file down a nub to get the perfect reset without any chance of anything backing out, however...

Vibratite is probably your main culprit. It's a finicky thread locker that I (and many others) have had less than stellar luck with. Take the screws out and clean it and the threads of the trigger with rubbing alcohol or acetone to get all that junk off.

They use a very small amount (just a dab) of Blue Loctite (243). Let it adjust it to where you want it and then let it cure for 24 hours.

Yep, I am trashing the Vibra tite and going back to LocTite.

quote:

Originally posted by ensigmatic:

quote:

Originally posted by YooperSigs:
I have tried to apply Vibra-Tite to it but the damn tiny screw is a PITA to manipulate and get the juice onto it.

I don't know about Vibra-Tite. I use Loctite Blue on such things. Initial setup time is about ten minutes. Usually plenty of time to manipulate the part(s).

quote:

Originally posted by Lefty Sig:
They usually have red loctite from the factory.

Are you certain of that? I'm no gunsmith, but I can't recall seeing Loctite Red recommended for anything. Not even grip bushings.

Loctite Red is meant for permanent installations. It requires 500°F heat to release it.

quote:

Originally posted by Lefty Sig:
I use blue on ones I set myself, but it's best to remove the screw all the way and coat the threads, then reinstall.

This ^^^^^

Except you don't really need to literally coat the threads, per se. A little dab'll do it.

I've yet to have had anything I assembled with Loctite Blue, or even Purple, come loose until I wanted it to.

Red thread locker is much more commonly used on firearms and automobiles than the vendor intends. Like using WD40, you get all sorts of reasons why it's best, none of which relate to it's intial invention and use. Folklore has intruded and the popular word of mouth gets more attention than it's correct application.

Even worse, red high temp silicone sealer. Exhaust bolts, transmission pan gaskets, whatever it expressly will not work on, its slathered all over the part and off they go. In auto circles mechanics having to fix a customer repair using red high temp silicone pray for a special place in Hades for their time in purgatory.

After I'm gone and the kids are parceling out what is left of my tools, I have already adopted a slogan for the goo: If its red, it's dead. I won't have any on hand to compromise the next generation.

By the way, for military applications, small tiny screws are to be avoided at all costs. Which is why staking was invented. Smash that with a punch for an guaranteed lock. As said, a properly tuned trigger has no adjustments, it's always right.