I recently shot a friends M&P and was favorably impressed. His trigger seemed excellent. Based on that experience and some favorable comments I read on here, I ran across a 4.25 inch 2.0 in .40 on clearance (since no one wants .40 anymore) and jumped. I usually try the trigger before I buy but due to a somewhat frenzied buying experience, I didnt this time.
And.... Its trigger is awful. Primary problems are a rough and crunchy take up and heavy (guessing 7 pound) pull weight. I went to the Apex site and have watched several trigger upgrade YT videos and they all seem to be quite a bit more complex than Glock trigger fixes. I realize the trigger may break in to some degree. My question is this:
Is there a simple, straightforward trigger fix (think Glock 25 cent polish) to improve the 2.0 trigger?
Thanks in advance!

Apex trigger, if don't want to spend any money just shoot as it is.

quote:

Originally posted by YooperSigs:

Is there a simple, straightforward trigger fix (think Glock 25 cent polish) to improve the 2.0 trigger?
Thanks in advance!

Start by stoning and polishing the trigger bar where it interfaces with the striker block. If you want to take out the sear and striker, you can polish those too. The hardest part to remove is the striker block since you have to drift the rear sight out, but it may be necessary to remove it and polish the striker block bore.

It takes some time and requires disassembly and reassembly several times to test the trigger pull, but it doesn't cost much more than time.

The Apex kits will literally transform your M&P, even a 2.0. It’s worth it even if you have to pay a gunsmith.

quote:

The Apex kits will literally transform your M&P, even a 2.0. It’s worth it even if you have to pay a gunsmith.

This right there! Put an APEX DCEAK kit in. It's very easy to do & you'll be glad you did.
It's worth every penny.

The striker block is coming out anyway, since I have night sights on the way for it. So I will do some polishing there. And I will order the Apex kit!
Thanks, everyone, for the input!

I'm not at all handy, but I've replaced two 1.0's with Apex triggers. Granted, cuss words were said, but I did it. I haven't felt the need with 2.0's, though.

They really are fairly easy to install. I've done 8 on 1.0's but like enidpd804 said, the 2.0's don't really need them. (mine haven't anyway)
Just follow Apex's installation video on their website & you'll be fine.

I’ve cleaned up quite a few M&P 2.0 triggers that have come through my shop. Just about all trigger components are cast, or stamped. So lots of casting marks and rolled edges from stamping to be filed and polished. I also have found the bore for the striker block most always needs polishing with emery cloth. I’ve seen we’re there are still fine burrs around the edge of the bore that scrape the striker block. Look at the striker block for light scoring, you’ll probably see some.

Not trying to push my Instagram account, but I do have some pictures from a really bad 2.0 trigger on there.

I know that the Gen.1 guns parts were only surface hardened. Trying to gunsmith them blew right through the hardness and caused a failure at 150 rounds.

I would be surprised if they change this to any real degree for the MIM parts … But I have no idea.

I believe as long as you don’t really futz with their surface hardening, you will be fine.

quote:

Originally posted by SIGnified:
I know that the Gen.1 guns parts were only surface hardened. Trying to gunsmith them blew right through the hardness and caused a failure at 150 rounds.

I would be surprised if they change this to any real degree for the MIM parts … But I have no idea.

I believe as long as you don’t really futz with their surface hardening, you will be fine.

I reshaped the sear and polished a lot of the trigger parts on my M&P 1, including a significant reshape of the plunger. The sear would have certainly been stoned though any surface hardening. I then used it for several years as my IPSC pistol, and shot it a lot. I put at least five or six thousand rounds through it, and never had any trigger part failures.

At the time there was no Apex trigger kits, but more conventional trigger work did no harm.

quote:

Originally posted by jhe888:

quote:

Originally posted by SIGnified:
I know that the Gen.1 guns parts were only surface hardened. Trying to gunsmith them blew right through the hardness and caused a failure at 150 rounds.

I would be surprised if they change this to any real degree for the MIM parts … But I have no idea.

I believe as long as you don’t really futz with their surface hardening, you will be fine.

I reshaped the sear and polished a lot of the trigger parts on my M&P 1, including a significant reshape of the plunger. The sear would have certainly been stoned though any surface hardening. I then used it for several years as my IPSC pistol, and shot it a lot. I put at least five or six thousand rounds through it, and never had any trigger part failures.

At the time there was no Apex trigger kits, but more conventional trigger work did no harm.

Lucky you. Saw it happen on two identical m&p guns.

A legendary gunsmith did mine. He repaired it with a second trigger job making sure that he didn’t go as far. It certainly wasn’t as short/nice as the first one.

He was the one that assessed the issue and did the work. You must be so much smarter than he is.

Ymmv

Ive used two Apex kits. A j frame and a SD9VE. Both gave me light primer strikes. I dont use Apex kits any longer.

quote:

Originally posted by SIGnified:
You must be so much smarter than he is.

There was no call for that. I am reporting my experience. I shot that gun a lot. Still have it.

Apex triggers in my Gen1 M&P compacts vastly improved the shooting abilities of the pistol.

M&P9 M2.0 Replace the sear with "two-dot" - quick and easy to remove rear pin, raise slowly the sear-holder to expose shinny cross pin - slowly and partially push the shinny cross pin to release old sear, replace and re-assemble.

Williams Gun Sight makes a great adjustable sight set that also helps. Triger replacement can be done, but might not be needed. If you do, make sure that the trigger spring (easy to see) latches into the trigger bar with the spring's end-loop in a vertical direction.

Does anyone know if the safety model M&P 2.0 involves only the lower, or does it require slide parts as well?

That is to say, would a non-safety upper function on a safety equipped upper? Or the other way around?

Thanks.

I did mine. It’s only involving the frame.

quote:

Originally posted by bcjwriter:
I did mine. It’s only involving the frame.

Thank you! Good to know.