Here is another video concerning the process of Conservation. Which is used to STOP any active rusting by boiling parts in hot water. This then converts the Red Rust to Black Oxice and by doing this much of the existing finish that is currently hidden will be revealed. So it can have the effect of "improving" the finish. The difference is that it's not being added to it's simply revealed by removing a layer of rust and oil. It is well worth the time used by watching it from start to end.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rShG_F85W1Y

Thanks for that video. I have not heard of the conservation process before. Definitely something to think about, but I'd have to find a gunsmith who is familiar with the process. Not that it's something I couldn't do, I'd just need WAY more practice first!

Add some forward slide serrations and a red dot sight, and you would have a good shooter.

You'll probably need to talk to a shop that works on Antiques. This a process that is a bit time consuming and most gun shop smiths won't take on a job that takes more that 15 minutes.

Now a Brief bit about Rust Bluing, which is the primary aspect of conserving an old firearm. There was a time when handguns were Rust Blued and it's actually a stronger surface treatment than the Bluing process used since the early 20th century. The problem is that it's a time consuming process than can take a week or several weeks. The original basic process was to expose the steel or iron parts to acid or acid fumes. Once fumed the parts were then hung in humid atmosphere until it was completely covered in an orange "fur" of rust. Then the part would be boiled for 45 minutes to an hour. After that the surface were Carded, commonly with a very fine wire brush mounted on a pedestal motor. Note you can also card the surface with a nylon toothbrush but it will take a lot longer. What carding does is clean off any surface dust remaining after the boiling. Then the process is repeated. For high production guns they would do this cycle 3 or 4 times. For London's Best guns they would repeat the process until it reached the point where rusting would not happen even in an acid fumed chamber. That could take a month or more. BTW, Color Case Hardening is not nearly as rust preventative az Rust Bluing.

Now for Conservation. To conserve a finish all you want to do is convert any Red Rust into Black Oxide and clean off accumulated crud. So you don't fume the parts in acid fumes or dip them in acid. You simply drop them in a large pot of boiling water. I've found large glass pots will do just fine and they are relatively cheap at Walmart. That a Hint, don't use your wife's cooking pots. After a 45-60 minute boil take the parts out of the water and allow it to cool and dry. Once dry you can then Card all the surfaces. Good news is you aren't going for a polished surface so a bit of work with a toothbrush is fine. Card everything you can reach until you can wipe an area with a white paper towel and not have heavy black marks showing. Note, very light gray is good enough. I would suggest you do two boil cycles, the condition of your example is not real heavy with rust.

After the Carding is done for the last boil you will want to drop the frame in a bath of Mineral Spirits for 24 hours. This will draw any water in the crevices for the grip screw bushing out of those hidden ares. Then drop the pistol in Acetone to dry out the mineral spirits. What you will then has is a bone dry and clean frame.

At this point you need to oil the Black Oxide finish. Non detergent lawn mower 30 weight will work but I prefer to use Water Displacing Oil, Formula 40. Yeah WD-40, the rust preventative that so many mistake for a lubricant. Note, WD-40 is a Drying oil so it is really superb as a Rust Preventative. It's also a poor lubricant because after enough time it will turn into a dried sludge. Hose everything down with WD-40 and then use lot of paper towels to wipe everything "dry". Rust bluing is a lattice and when you feed that lattice with oil it is fantastic at preventing rust.

Note, the following image is a rasp that spent 2 years in damp sawdust. When I found it the rasp looked like a rusty corn cob. The rasp now looks like new and is razor sharp. All it was two 45 minute boils, 2o minutes of carding, and a bit of WD-40.




The good news is that the 1911 is one of the easiest pistols to fully disassemble on the planet and it can actually be done with nothing more than a hobnail and a small rock. However if you want to remove the grip panels that will require a screwdriver. Yes you can fully strip a 1911 of every single part with the grip panels in place. There are videos on youtube that can take you thru the whole process.

Tips.

First is that the grip panels are retained by bushings that are staked to the frame of the pistol. You NEVER EVER want to remove those bushings so as you are loosening the grip screws Stick an index finger inside the frame to feel it the bushing is spinning, if it is try and hold the bushing in place with your fingertip as you remove the screw. Because that is a 60 thread per inch on the bushing and that fine of thread is nearly impossible to re-start without cross threading it. The factory used a special jig to thread these in.

Second, Petrolium Jelly cold (out of the fridge) is a good "glue' to hold the sear in position as you assemble the lockwork. Once you have everything together you can use some canned air to blow most of it out of the lockwork, as for the remainder consider it a rust preventative.

Third, the triple leaf spring in the back under the grip safety is bent to 3 different curves by intent, so don't even think about trying to "straighten it". This spring is actually what should be called the Main Spring, because it provides spring tension to Sear, Trigger, Interrupter, and Grip Safety.

When you are at the point where you want to remove the Main spring housing use your thumb to decock the pistol as you lower the hammer, do NOT pull the trigger and let it slam into the frame.

Finally take lots and lots of pictures as you disassemble the pistol.