I use a product from Brownells called Action Magic. It is a gun grease used on sear mating surfaces and is slicker than warm snot.
Anyway a buddy of mine is a certified Glock armorer and pointed to a place that many people do not grease. There is a friction point between the trigger bar and the connector. I put the grease between those points and it made a huge difference. A little lighter trigger pull weight and no gritty feeling. I am sure many know about this, but some may not.

Gun grease that reduces "a pound or two" from your trigger pull weight? Yeah sure.

quote:

Originally posted by 12131:
Gun grease that reduces "a pound or two" from your trigger pull weight? Yeah sure.

Yes, really. Excess friction increases pull weight and felt weight. Verified it with a trigger pull gauge.

I think I've seen Johnny Glocks recommend greasing that same spot.

Sorry, don't buy it. You cannot grease your way from 5.5 lbs to 3.5.

$.50 trigger job
Hi-temp wheel bearing grease.

Been doing it for years now on my Glocks.
Works like a charm.

But as long as I've been doing it, it's never reduced trigger pull.

quote:

Originally posted by iron chef:
I think I've seen Johnny Glocks recommend greasing that same spot.

He uses Clenzoil hinge pin jelly in his kits. They don't make that product anymore, but it looks similar to Aeroshell mixed with copper anti-seize.

I like to use Slip2000 EWG on the connectors of my carry guns since it stays put long term and it mixes well with their EWL oil.

I use Lucas grease on everything, now. It domes in the little handy squeeze tubes and works great. On a Glock, when I clean and strip the pistol, the connector does get greased.

Reducing friction between surfaces doesn't reduce the trigger weight significantly. It makes the pull a bit smoother. A lighter trigger pull on a glock is achieved with a heavier trigger spring; it means less effort is required on the trigger. Referred to as a "competition spring," it isn't necessarily the best choice for carry.

I picked up a G34, very gently used, a few years ago. The owner had attempted to give it a light trigger; that included the heavier trigger spring. The trigger wouldn't fully reset, because the spring was heavy enough that the trigger safety wouldn't quite engage, meaning that pressure on the trigger, without touching the trigger safety, could still discharge the firearm.

The first thing I did was get rid of everything internal to the pistol. I put everything back to factory OEM parts, because I couldn't be sure what else the prior owner had done with the pistol, and it wasn't safe in it's present condition. It had aftermarket parts; I took everything out and replaced to stock. That was a safe starting point.

There are connector choices which will change the weight and the smoothness of the pistol, but I submit that a butter smooth Glock trigger isn't necessarily ideal; a trigger that you can feel, to stage, and that has a positive reset that you can feel, is more useful to trigger control, especially shooting quickly and accurately. There's a perception that a trigger that's so light and smooth that one can't feel anything, is somehow better, and will make one more accurate, faster, a beter shot. Not so, and it doesn't make up for poor technique and fundamentals.

Yes, grease and lubricate the pistol. It doesn't need to be pounds lighter, and there are ways to lighten it if desired...but the Glock can be shot accurately, and shot quickly, without going overboard.

Greasing and lubricating the pistol won't make it pounds lighter, and won't change the physical properties of the trigger spring, connector, etc.

Popular "enhancements" are lightweight strikers, and reduced power striker springs. While the lighter spring will make for a lighter trigger pull and break, it also frequently results in light strikes. Good way to build a malfunction into the pistol. Glock put the factory spring weight there for a good reason. It works. Reliably. For two hundred thousand rounds, as has been demonstrated before. Lightweight springs break, and cause light strikes, and are false economy. Lighter isn't necessarily better, especially at the expense of reliability.

You guys are beating the guy up, but what he claims is sorta true. Take out the trigger pack, remove the connector, grease the snot out of it, and it will drastically improve the trigger quality of a Glock.

Also, your trigger bar is old and out of date. I would swap it out for the new improved one.

No one is beating him up.

It goes without saying that lubrication between surfaces is appropriate, and between the trigger bar and connector, a dab of grease is not a bad idea. Or a drop of oil.

Those parts will wear together over time. One can polish them. Many aftermarket parts sellers coat them.

Reducing trigger pull by several pounds, however, isn't going to happen by putting a drop of oil or a spot of grease where it should have been in the first place.

Additionally, any oil or grease will accumulate powder residue and dirt over time, and should be cleaned; fresh grease rather than grease mixed with powder residue and debris, is best in those locations. Any lubrication will hold debris that comes in contact, however, and can either contribute to wear, or may increase resistance and friction, or in extreme cases, can interfere with operation of the firearm.

I agree that there isn't two pounds to save there, but lubricating and lightly and carefully polishing there will indeed smooth things out. The same is true of the firing pin safety and accompanying protrusion on the trigger bar. If your Glock has been shot a little bit, it's not hard to find the bearing surfaces.

And speaking to sns3guppy's post, a friend of mine is not a "Glock guy" but is a reasonably successful competition shooter. He borrowed a couple guns and went to a GSSF match last year and placed high enough to win a gun. He ended up with a Gen 5 34. I've been very pleased with the Gen 5 triggers, but unsurprisingly, he was not. He replaced, polished, stoned, and otherwise fucked with everything in that gun and turned it into the absolute worst feeling Glock trigger I've ever felt. It had an uncertain, rolling feeling, no wall, and a very inconsistent break. I suggested taking it back to stock and leaving it. He ended up putting one of the Timney triggers in it, which I guess is close enough.

I thought everybody knew you lube that spot, it's even one of the "5 drops of oil" spots that are recommended.

If you really want to get a lighter and smoother trigger pull on a Glock, get a Ghost Connnector.

Mrs. Flash got a G42 years ago and the trigger pull was absolutely horrible. On the recommendation of the Manager of our LGS/indoor range, I put a Ghost Connector on it.

I liked it so much I bought 3 more to put on the rest of our Glocks.

quote:

Originally posted by Flash-LB:
I thought everybody knew you lube that spot, it's even one of the "5 drops of oil" spots that are recommended.

Yep. And you don't need to be a Glock Armorer to know that... It's right there in the owner's manual.

They even go so far as to state below the lubrication diagram:

Most important is the drop of oil where connector and trigger bar meet.

Does adding lube to that area increase the collection of grit that might interfere with the trigger. I think of Sigs/1991 run wet and Glocks run dry.

quote:

Originally posted by abnmacv:
Does adding lube to that area increase the collection of grit that might interfere with the trigger. I think of Sigs/1991 run wet and Glocks run dry.

I've seen a lot of debate over that. I think it likely depends on how carefully you maintain your gun.

quote:

Originally posted by CPD SIG:
$.50 trigger job
Hi-temp wheel bearing grease.

Been doing it for years now on my Glocks.
Works like a charm.

But as long as I've been doing it, it's never reduced trigger pull.

I'm even cheaper. 25¢ trigger job and I'm good.
I don't think I've oiled that particular spot though.
Very fine grit sandpaper and just a bit of a polish. Done it for a few different striker fired pistols.
Of course you can just shoot the shit out of it also and get the desired results.

I have worked on quite a number of Glocks for friends. A thorough cleaning and a lube (including grease where the original poster mentions) will do wonders.

I always disassemble and put all the parts in my ultrasonic cleaner for only about 3 min. You would be ashamed just how dirty your guns are...just saying.

quote:

Originally posted by abnmacv:
Does adding lube to that area increase the collection of grit that might interfere with the trigger. I think of Sigs/1991 run wet and Glocks run dry.

I run Glocks wet, rails and rail slots greased, all contact points greated, recoil spring oiled, all pivot points greased. I carry them that way. I clean them and re-grease them each time they're shot.

Glocks were not meant to be shot dry, and there is no advantage to doing so.

quote:

Originally posted by abnmacv:
Does adding lube to that area increase the collection of grit that might interfere with the trigger. I think of Sigs/1991 run wet and Glocks run dry.

I think the "overlubing" stories are really dependant upon the environment in which you are using the gun. A lot of our gun owners with military experience gained that experience in the middle east, which is covered in sand. I've never been there myself, but I've heard it described as "moon dust"...very fine and it gets into everything. If you're running around the desert of Iraq, that stuff sticking to lube is going to be a huge concern.

While there are a few places in the US that may mirror those conditions, most of us don't live there, and even if we do, we're not likely out playing in the dirt in the same capacity that the military is doing.

Where I live, there isn't any sand...our dirt is mostly clay or loam, and the humidity is relatively high. Unlubed metal rusts here. Freezing is also a concern in the winter. I lube my guns pretty heavily with a viscous mix of 20w50 motor oil and synthetic ATF. In my environment I've never had a gun's lube attract so much dirt that it's caused a malfunction. I ankle carried a Glock and a P320 SC for years, and while lint and skin flakes and other particles would stick to the gun (including the area described in the OP), it never once caused a malfunction, and always cleaned out easily with a few strokes of a brush or a blast of compressed air. I'm usually pretty good about cleaning, but I'll admit that there were times that my ankle gun looked like a furrball by the time I got around to it, it never malfunctioned because of it (although sometimes it would shed a nice cloud of lint for the first couple of shots!), nor did the trigger pull suffer as a result. On the flip-side, I've seen plenty of dry guns malfunction due to lack of lube. Running a gun dry will also increase wear on your contact points, even if it doesn't immediately result in a malfunction.

All that to say, it's dependant upon your environment, and while regular cleaning is always a good thing, for most Americans I'd say that you should be more concerned about under-lubing than over-lubing.

I've been there (yesterday). The entire region has fine dust, and yes, it's everywhere, and no, it isn't what the lore makes it out to be.

Vickers, et al, make a point that especially with the AR platform, it should be run wet, and is very adamant that the traditional wisdom of light oil or dry to avoid attracting dust, is false, and unwise. In fact, if it starts gumming with dust, spuge it on there, make it wet, and it will keep running. Dry causes stoppages. Not wet.

If one is carrying a firearm that's picking up dust, then it still needs to be lubricated, and cleaned more frequently. Those who suggest otherwise are those who are too lazy to maintain the firearm. I've spent a number of years in the middle east, in all the hotspots. The stories of stoppages aren't from overlubrication and heavy dust intake. They're from those who didn't lube enough, or maintain them enough.