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Hello All, I have a P220 .22lr conversion kit which is, of course, fun. I had heard that the conversion kit is the same for the P220 and P226, except for the label on the slide and the magazines. Does anyone know if this is accurate? I ask as the conversion runs just fine on my P220 Carry frame. However, when on the P226 frame I sometimes have to pull the trigger 4-5 times to make it fire. My guess is that the firing pin block isn't moving up properly on the P226, and thus the hammer isn't putting force on the brass. Both have the same hammer spring weight, so that shouldn't be an issue. Does anyone have any experience with these Sig-branded .22lr conversion kits? Thanks Sigs and Non-Sigs: I enjoy having options! | ||
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Yes, the kit works on the 220 or 226. You just need the correct magazines for each. | |||
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One version of the 228 kit will have a short dust cover that will leave a gap on the 226. Another version for the 228/229 will have a long dust cover and not leave a gap. Not all 220 Kits will work on the 226. As the bar that holds the firing pin in place is thicker on the 220 kit than the 226 kit. I have had 3 226 kits, 2 228/229 and 2 220 kits. this last 220 kit i had to modify the firing pin retaining block to work on my 226. | |||
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Thanks for the info. What did you wind up doing? In looking at mine, I thought having metal added [welding?] to the cutout part of the firing pin block, so that it was sticking forward about another 1/8", would probably let it work on the P226. It seemed to me that the lifter that is supposed to push up the firing pin block was about 1/8" to 3/16" farther forward in the frame on the P226- probably due to longer mag opening in .45acp frame? Is this the direct you went? Sigs and Non-Sigs: I enjoy having options! | |||
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Sent you pics of what i did. | |||
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Thank you Just so you know, at 627, nothing has arrived in my inbox, or spam box. If your pics totaled more than 10MB, my provider may have stopped them from traveling. I can't seem to send more than 9.7MB in images, so I wind up sending 2-3 pics at a time: PITdonkey. I will keep watching, and I appreciate your help! I have a P220 that it is working on, but I'd love it to be able to go between the P220 and P226. Yes, for others, I do have P226 mags- the plastic printed ones from canada that have a LSHO that engages the slide stop- instead of the other design that catches the slide with the follower [like my 1937 CZ24 pistol]. So, I am good- with mags for both receivers. Sigs and Non-Sigs: I enjoy having options! | |||
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yeah, they are likely more than 10 megs. Here is a side profile of the firing pin retaining block. You can see how I had to file it down so that the 226 hammer would strike it. This is the top profile. You can see where it hits. This is one of the later production slides on my 226. My original 220 conversion slide I owned going on 8 or 9 years ago did not require any work at all. The only thing I had to do is use the correct magazine to the frame. I picked this slide up off Ebay the year before last. | |||
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Hmm, so I just need to radius the bottom of the FP retention plate, like I did for my 1911s? That is EASY! I was thinking I'd need to make some significant modifications to the FP block. It never dawned on me that the culprit would be the FP retention plate. I have done this type of mod for 1911s and BHPs, in order to make 9mm smoother [radically radiused FP plate to reduce resistance for standard velocity loads], or give .40 and .45 more resistance [squared off plate with hint of bevel] when running lighter hammer springs. It didn't occur to me that the hammer was striking the FP Plate instead. Thank you!!!!!!! Sigs and Non-Sigs: I enjoy having options! | |||
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Update- Made modifications to the firing pin stop bushing/plate area, as per pics above. Solved issue- THANKS! Just need to polish chamber and see about new extractor spring, as I was getting some failures to extract. Sigs and Non-Sigs: I enjoy having options! | |||
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would you have photos of how you modified the the firing pin stop? | |||
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