I've had no problems with the finish on my 642 after several years of frequent pocket carry.

.38 from a short barrel revolver isn't very potent, but the 642 is light, easy to shoot (and shoot rapidly), and it's outline breaks up more in a pocket than an auto.

Speer makes gold dot shot barrel .38. It's what I use, plus two Bianchi speed strips. I use a DeSatis pocket holster with the 642.

quote:

Originally posted by flwing:That was the problem with the Model 36 - had to put a set of 'banana grips' on it to get enough fingers for a good hold.
I'd imagine running +P's thru it would be a handful.

For a full-length grip, may I suggest a Hogue Tamer? It lets you get all your fingers on the grip and it offers much better recoil reduction than the "banana grips."

J frames are great little guns. It takes some practice to shoot them well at any distance, but it's easy to get proficient with them in the 5-7 yard range. Even though they're relatively small, they have decent size grips that make them easy to grab. Some pocket guns are just too small.

Congrats! My current J-frame is pictured (left side of frame down to not show "the hole" haha...I also found a new no-lock version last year and fave that one to my dad).

I use a now-weathered JW O'Rourke leather pocket holster and Quickstrips from Tuff Products (and their nylon belt pouch for same). I use their 8-round strips and load them as shown, 2-2-1 to give my fingers a little more space to work with. Speed loaders would be faster but the strips carry easily and with discretion. I practice with them regularly.

I've also found a nice non-plus-P JHP load for carry (I'll need to grab a box of that ammo for a refresher on the brand).

While I carry a 1911 anytime I can, the 642 is my go-anywhere-anytime gun, sometimes as a BUG, sometimes as an "only."

I've got one too that I carry on my ankle in an "Original Alessi" ankle holster... Ultra Comfortable and Concealable

I've got a 442 as well that I carry in this Old/Original Don Hume Paddle Holster from the late 70's that has held numerous "J-Frames" over the years
http://glock.pro/members/481-a...s70-picture2170t.jpg

I like my Model 60 Pro in 357 Magnum. I have a friend who sells cars who always carries one like yours here in Texas.

I carry my 638 (humpy) quite often.

Wow! I had no idea these little guys were so popular!

Hopefully I'll be able to get to the range this week to try it out. I've been dryfiring it to get used to the trigger and grip angle. I'm impressed by how the gun just locks into my hand. It's easy to keep a tight grip and the front sight on target even with fast double action pulls. We will see how that changes when I actually shoot it.

What are you guys using for SD ammo? I bought a box of Horniday critical defense 110 grain +P rounds. I figured with the lower velocity, the Horniday with its tighter opening might give me some better penetration. Since its a revolver, I don't have to worry about cycling, so right now, I'm only thinking about terminal ballistics. I'm open to your suggestions.

I know this is about S&W J-frames, but my Ruger SP101, 2&1/4", hammerless is on my hip right now. Always happy with Ruger revolvers.

442 and MP340 here. I prefer the 340 due to lower weight and front night sight. Use Speer 135gr +P Short Barrel Gold Dots.

My first choice snub defensive ammo is Speer 135gr SB-GDHP +P. Solid track record in actual shootings. Look for the 50-round box, much better value than the 20-round boxes. It can be tough to find, just keep in mind that they're made on a cycle, every 3-4 months, I think. Best thing to do is get on an online vendor's e-mail list to get notified when they get them in stock.

My (close) second choice is Buffalo Bore 158gr LSWCHP standard pressure. FBI loads in general also have a solid track record in actual shootings. Even though it's labeled as standard pressure it produces +P velocity and recoil, but it is still manageable in a lightweight snub. I've tried the +P version in my 642; after 5 rounds I told myself, "Well, I'm never gonna do THAT again!" Brutal recoil with significantly slower follow-up shots, for me anyways. They're expensive, but revolvers don't really require as much reliability testing as semi-autos do. One 20-round box for reliability testing and to see how well you can shoot it, and one 20-round box to use as carry ammo.

Generally speaking, I prefer medium to heavy bullet weights for SD loads, which, in .38 Special, I would consider as 125gr and heavier. They seem to give the best balance between expansion and penetration. Of course, if those loads are too much for you to handle, then lighter loads would be fine. Terminal ballistics are important, but not as important as being able to get good, quick hits on target.

I have carried a 642 for years, especially when I was tasked with being an "unarmed" security dude.
If you can find any, the old Federal NyClad was available in a load specifically for snubs. Great performer at non +P pressure.

quote:

Originally posted by henryarnaud:

Terminal ballistics are important, but not as important as being able to get good, quick hits on target.

Good Point!

I use my 442 as a backup when I feel like I need one. I carry it in a Ritchie Leather ankle holster, very comfortable. It's a little too big for me as a pocket gun, I use a Mustang XSP for that.

I load it with 135gr Gold Dot short barrel.

quote:

Originally posted by mbinky:
I use my 442 as a backup when I feel like I need one. I carry it in a Ritchie Leather ankle holster, very comfortable. It's a little too big for me as a pocket gun, I use a Mustang XSP for that.

I load it with 135gr Gold Dot short barrel.

I use Gold Dots in my P239 and like them. I'll try your recommendation. Someone else also recommended Gold Dots.

binky, I am withya'. I carry my 642 with that same Ritchie ankle holster 9-5 M-F.

To those of you who own these Model 642 Airweights, do you feel they are pretty durable? I've considered buying one in the past but never have(yet).

quote:

Originally posted by kaschi:
To those of you who own these Model 642 Airweights, do you feel they are pretty durable? I've considered buying one in the past but never have(yet).

I think they are, in general. I've read numerous reports of people firing thousands of rounds over several years through them with no problems. But there will always be outliers. I had a 642-1 break its hammer stud after ~4.5 years, 1500 rounds (1/3 of them +P), and thousands of dry fires. Fortunately, S&W customer service replaced the gun free of charge under warranty and even reimbursed my transfer and NICS fees. Even with that experience, I wouldn't hesitate to get another 642-1 (or 2, or 3, or...).