Every time I get a new Sig, I have problems finding the right holster because of the E2/non-2 and rail vs non-rail issue. I've ended up with the wrong holster several times as a result. Is there a definitive link or previous post that clarifies Sig holsters? (I'm talking primarily the 226/229 models.)

This message has been edited. Last edited by: les45,

E2/non-E2 refers to the grip and has nothing to do with holsters.

The only thing you should be concerned about is rail or non-rail.

quote:

Originally posted by 12131:
E2/non-E2 refers to the grip and has nothing to do with holsters.

The only thing you should be concerned about is rail or non-rail.

My E2 229 SAS is non rail but it will not fit the old style holster. I thought the non rail would go into either (rail or non-rail) holster but would be loose in the rail model.

Issue resolved (sort of). I couldn't figure out what was hitting the holster to keep it from going in completely. The strange part was that if I tried to force it, the slide would start to rack. It finally dawned on me that the full height cocking serrations were the problem. I'm not sure if they were part of the E2 change but they occurred at about the same time. I've seen some posts where people have heated the holster in an oven and then basically re-molded it by forcing the gun in and leaving it til it cooled. I plan to try this but I will use a wood template instead of the gun. Don't want to take any chances on damaging the finish.

I wouldn't heat it in the oven. An oven will heat the entire holster. You might try a hair dryer or heat gun which will give you more control for re-molding in the specific area(s) you've identified as being the issue.

Finally fixed the problem. The slide is exactly one inch wide at the top of the serrations. I had an oak board that was exactly one inch wide so I sanded and rounded the edges to use as a template. I then heated the holster with a hair dryer for a few minutes and clamped the board into the tight part of the holster. I only needed about 1 1/2" since that was all the farther the serrations extended. After clamping the board in place and causing the area to expand, I then set the holster (minus the paddle) in front of a quartz heater for about 15 minutes on each side. After the holster cooled my 229 slid right in like it was made for it and you can't really tell where the widening took place. I then found a different problem. The trigger guards are different on the SAS model so I had to use the dremel tool on the inside of the release button to make it work. Now all is good.