quote:

Originally posted by Jim1970:
Honestly this experience makes me wanna sell the 1911 and move to revolvers!

Don't let this put you off 1911s. Been shooting them for a long time and have never experienced this failure. But then again I don't shoot 1911s by any of the "late to the party" manufacturers.

quote:

Originally posted by Jim Watson:
Sometimes plunger tubes loosen because the holes were not internally countersunk for the legs to be staked.
This one, the legs are broken clear off. I am sure that Smith will replace it for you, but if it comes off again, I would get a real gunsmith to put on a milled part from Wilson or EGW.

This. Looks like the legs sheared right off. Not sure how that even happens? Cheap metal parts or maybe over staked & stressed the material? No clue.

At the risk of releasing the MIM Monster, I would look at the back of the broken plunger tube for mold marks.

For a modest extra fee, Caspian will make you a receiver with integral plunger tube. For a lesser fee they will make one with a slight recess to support the regular plunger tube.

It is usually said that Mr Browning designed the plunger tube as a separate piece so it could be replaced by a military armorer. I wonder if it were not made separate so the receiver could be forged and machined flat sided with no small projections.

I wonder why this keeps the gun from firing assuming the safety is able to disengage.

Here’s a quick vid on how to re-stake a plunger tube if interested.

https://youtu.be/qk56y8wLRkw

I echo those that say bite the bullet and forget sending back to S&W. Instead buy a quality replacement and have it properly installed. Yeah it's money but the security you'll gain is priceless.

FWIW I currently own 8 1911s and over the decades have had numerous others. I've never had a plunger tube failure... knock-on-wood.

Of all the 1911s I've owned over the years, I never had a plunger tube break. I had one gun that had one that was a little loose feeling, but it never went all the way to failure. That was on a Colt.

Now that I've said that, My TRP and Dan Wesson will both loose plunger tubes tonight.

The only relatively common issue I've seen in my 1911s has been poorly fit extractors. I'm ok with them being a little proud to the back of the slide, but I've had to tweak the tension on several and had clocking issues on 2 Kimbers.

I'd send it back to Smith. They'll fix it and likely be sure it stays fixed. Might even throw some free swag at you. Smith has done warranty work for me in the past. They were good to deal with and pretty quick.

Definitely let us know how it goes for you. Yours looks like the E-series Commander with the scandium frame. If so then I have a vested interest in how it turns out for you since I own one of those myself.

Yeah...from my dozen or so 1911’s, I’ve never had one break either. Not a complicated fix for sure....more time and trouble than money and I would send it back to S&W on their dime.

But if you don’t...

As for aftermarket parts, there are the usual suspects of course but I have had really wonderful performance from John Harrison oF Harrison Design. His trigger component groups and sets are wonderful and his custom work is sublime.

In this case, however, his plunger tubes are about $15. Maybe shoot him an email asking him if there is anything particular about installing the S&W Plunger Tube on the scandium S&W.

https://shop.harrisoncustom.co...atches-plunger-tubes

http://www.harrisoncustom.com/

quote:

Originally posted by ruger357:
I wonder why this keeps the gun from firing assuming the safety is able to disengage.

If I remember the S+W uses a unique Schwartz firing pin safety. Perhaps it's that? The plunger tube, typical MIM. I had a slide stop sheer off in the first 200 rounds on my S+W 1911.

Hello!

I am intrigued by the notion of doing the repair myself. I do like to tinker, but it’s always on things that I can easily replace or that involve things a buddy can fix. I will let S&W handle this one ... but if it fails again I’ll take the plunge into 1911 repair!

Thanks again for all the input & ideas!

Jim

I still think you will be waisting your time sending it back. They will be putting the same part on the same way they did originally.

Bob

If it's of any interest, the Ruger 1911 has the plunger tube physically built into the frame. It cannot come loose and fall off. I don't have one, but I will someday.

TBK

Hello!

An unexpected and unpleasant update!

I was reading the fine print on my return label and instructions - gun must be sent via FedEx. I live in a small town and we only have a UPS store - no FedEx. We do have FedEx drop boxes, but the instructions say DO NOT drop a gun in them. I’ve emailed S&W and explained the situation.

Taking what I learned here, I’ve found a local gunsmith who is deemed competent with 1911s by my gun buddies. I’m going to call him today to see what he would quote me.

Thank you!

Jim

Can’t be much. It’s about a15 dollar part abd less than 2 minutes to put it in.

Bob

quote:

Originally posted by ruger357:
I wonder why this keeps the gun from firing assuming the safety is able to disengage.

With the plunger removed there is no friction to keep the safety either in “safe” or “fire”.

Effectively the safety lever will bounce to either position due to recoil, if the gun goes off, or it will stay in safe and not fire.....

quote:

Originally posted by MikeinNC:

quote:

Originally posted by ruger357:
I wonder why this keeps the gun from firing assuming the safety is able to disengage.

With the plunger removed there is no friction to keep the safety either in “safe” or “fire”.

Effectively the safety lever will bounce to either position due to recoil, if the gun goes off, or it will stay in safe and not fire.....

I get that but the OP said something flew off and then the gun wouldn’t fire anymore. I would assume he made sure the safety was disengaged.

Hello!

So the thing that flew off was the part pictured laying next to the gun in the original post. I’ve learned that part is a plunger tube. The gun would not fire after I saw it come off. The safety simply flopped around. I cleared the gun as it did cycle and chamber a round - then the range session came to an end.

I’m a glock guy and I am much more comfortable with that platform and their operation. I operate a 1911 very well, but I’m just not as knowledgeable about their inner workings. So once I realized a part broke, I stopped. I wonder if it would have fired the chambered round, but I didn’t want to do anything to make matters worse.

The gun is an e-series bi-tone Commander with a bobtail, scandium frame. She’s a looker for sure!

Thanks guys!

Jim

https://www.egwguns.com/plunge...40-button-head-bolts
My personal favorite.

If you do the stake-on, go ahead and get the plunger-tube reamer. It will save you headaches, as tubes aren't always clean from the manufacturer, or you may slightly crimp one, installing.

Funny, I became a confirmed Glock guy after lots of working on 1911s.