This p320 axg pro is 2 months old and has less than 1200 rounds run through it.
Around 300-400 I noticed the anodizing removed. I have asked a fellow firearm owner and he said it is not normal. I wanted to ask those WHO OWN SIG SAUER so for you experts I have attached photos showing the friction between frame and the pro slide.



I use a teflon high temperature grease since day one with the slide and frame. After the second cleaning I noticed the shiny surface of the edge of the frame of which I apply a light amount of grease.

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Welcome to SigForum Xielvas!

I was glad to read that you have been using a teflon high temperature grease since day one. Which brand grease are you using?

I've owned Sig products since 1987, but not the P320 AXG.

The best article about wear on Sig frames that holds true to my pistols (P220, P226, P227) is posted on the Grey Guns website.

I've posted the entire article, not just the section on anodizing wear:

www.GrayGuns.com/Guide-to-Sig-Sauer-Pistol-Inspection/

Guide to Sig Sauer pistol inspection
July 27, 2009
Bruce Gray

I’ve had a handful of e-mails asking how to tell if a used Sig is still in good shape or not. After writing the same e-mail over and over for the last five years, I figured it was time to post my thoughts on what to look at when you’re going to purchase a used Sig Sauer pistol.

The first thing to look at is the frame rails. The rails will tell you everything that you need to know about how well the gun has been taken care of. The following is how the colors of the under side of the frame rails will change as your gun wears.

Dull Black – No wear, perfect finish.

Shiny Black – Slight wearing in of the pigment in the anodizing, this is normal after around 200 rounds.

Dark Gold/Orange – The pigment in the anodizing is starting to wear, this is perfectly normal and not a problem, the metal is still protected and your frame is still perfectly viable. Most guns reach this phase between 2,000 and 4,000 rounds.

Bright Gold – The pigment in the anodizing is wearing in. Your frame is still protected and your gun is still perfectly viable. Most guns reach this phase and remain static from here on out as long as proper lubrication is used.

Light Gold – The pigment in your anodizing is wearing through, your frame is still protected, but you should keep an eye on it.

Shiny Silver – This is where you need to start to worry. The pigment in the anodizing is worn through, your frame is still protected, but you need to monitor your frame rails very closely and make sure they remain greased thoroughly for the rest of your gun’s life.

Dull Silver – You’re screwed. Your anodizing has worn completely through in the areas you see dull anodizing. From here on your frame is unprotected and it’s time to buy a new gun. It may still shoot and function perfectly, but your frame rails will continue to wear at a much accelerated rate.

The next thing to look at is the disconnector tab on your trigger bar. That’s the part of the trigger bar that sits up highest in the frame. A factory new trigger bar will have a nice radius across the top, a heavily used one will have a flat worn into it. The best way to check and make sure it’s still functioning correctly is to pull the slide back by one-quarter of an inch and pull the trigger, if the hammer doesn’t try to fall you’re OK.

The next place to look at is the barrel. You will notice the “smileys” on the barrel on the muzzle end. If you run your finger down the barrel and feel a dip, you may want to have the gun looked at by a professional, the slide should not be abrading the barrel enough to remove any metal at all. The presence of a dip in the metal would indicate that your slide has a burr in it.

If you look at the front of the chamber section at the top of the barrel you will see a ledge that steps down just before the tube part of the barrel starts. The ledge there should be at a clear 90 degree angle, any rolling of that sharp corner would indicate a soft barrel or one which hasn’t been lubricated properly.

The slide should also be inspected. The slide lock lever detent on the slide should be looked at for burrs or any rounding on the rear or the notch. A burr sticking out can abrade your thumbs if you shoot a thumbs forward grip. A burr on the slide could indicate a slightly soft slide or that the previous shooter kept their thumb on the slide lock lever. A rounded off notch at the back would indicate an improper heat treat of the slide.

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This message has been edited. Last edited by: sleepla8er,

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I wanted to separate this reply from my previous post.

I use a quality pistol gun grease everywhere there are moving metal against metal parts. I believe the use of grease is best practice to protect your pistol.

I was glad to read that you have been using a teflon high temperature grease since day one. Which brand grease are you using?

There is pinned thread in the top of the Sig Pistols section of Sig Forum. That thread was written by "Flork" who worked for Bruce Gray when he wrote the Lubrication thread:
https://sigforum.com/eve/forum...30601935/m/908103701

As for what is considered a quality grease,
I currently use Lucas Oil products (www.LucasOil.com/products/out-door-line)

Brian Enos Slide Glide (www.BrianEnos.com/)

Mil-Comm (www.Mil-Comm.com/shop/)

Shooter's Choice grease (www.Shooters-Choice.com/)

Lubriplate (www.Brownells.com/search/index.htm?k=Lubriplate&ksubmit=y)

I'm sure you will receive many suggestions on quality grease from other Sig Forum Users in this thread....

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Was your gun one of the tan cerakote versions or the black nitron finish>

I don't know about anyone else but I can't see the photo you posted

I can't see the photo...where is the anodizing wearing at? I doubt it's the frame rails as described in the post above, as those are stainless steel and part of the FCU on the 320. Honestly, as the aluminum AXG grip module is just a grip module, I'd imagine that any wear points are likely to be more of a cosmetic issue than a serious longevity concern.

quote:

Originally posted by 92fstech:
I can't see the photo...where is the anodizing wearing at? I doubt it's the frame rails as described in the post above, as those are stainless steel and part of the FCU on the 320. Honestly, as the aluminum AXG grip module is just a grip module, I'd imagine that any wear points are likely to be more of a cosmetic issue than a serious longevity concern.

I hope you can see these. I am not good at linking images in forums.

https://imgur.com/a/LAIAEck

I can right click on the little image thing. Then open it up in a new tab that takes me to his imgur pics. From what I am seeing the finish is just wearing off the aluminum grip module. I cannot tell if it is a actual gouge of material or just the finish being rubbed off? I would run my finger over the underside of the slide and see if anything feels odd. As the slide runs on lugs vs being more of a rail design I would not worry about it.

quote:

Originally posted by 92fstech: Honestly, as the aluminum AXG grip module is just a grip module, I'd imagine that any wear points are likely to be more of a cosmetic issue than a serious longevity concern.

quote:

Originally posted by cyberiad:
I don't know about anyone else but I can't see the photo you posted

https://imgur.com/a/LAIAEck

My mistake

quote:

Originally posted by DanH:
Was your gun one of the tan cerakote versions or the black nitron finish>

Black Nitron

https://imgur.com/a/LAIAEck

^^^^^^^
Your link works.

quote:

Originally posted by sleepla8er:
.

I wanted to separate this reply from my previous post.

I use a quality pistol gun grease everywhere there are moving metal against metal parts. I believe the use of grease is best practice to protect your pistol.

I was glad to read that you have been using a teflon high temperature grease since day one. Which brand grease are you using?

There is pinned thread in the top of the Sig Pistols section of Sig Forum. That thread was written by "Flork" who worked for Bruce Gray when he wrote the Lubrication thread:
https://sigforum.com/eve/forum...30601935/m/908103701

As for what is considered a quality grease,
I currently use Lucas Oil products (www.LucasOil.com/products/out-door-line)

Brian Enos Slide Glide (www.BrianEnos.com/)

Mil-Comm (www.Mil-Comm.com/shop/)

Shooter's Choice grease (www.Shooters-Choice.com/)

Lubriplate (www.Brownells.com/search/index.htm?k=Lubriplate&ksubmit=y)

I'm sure you will receive many suggestions on quality grease from other Sig Forum Users in this thread....

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I use Tetra Gun Grease and it goes on heavy on the frame where the bottom of the slide is near.

quote:

Originally posted by motoboy:
^^^^^^^
Your link works.

Yes too much. That’s what happens when I try to post!

Ok, I can see them via the link. Yeah, that looks like the bottom of your slide is rubbing slightly along the top of your grip module. I'd check the bottom of the slide for burrs, but it could also just be that the tolerances are allowing it to rub. It's not ideal, but IMO it' purely cosmetic and won't likely cause any long-term problems with the gun.

quote:

Originally posted by 92fstech:
Ok, I can see them via the link. Yeah, that looks like the bottom of your slide is rubbing slightly along the top of your grip module. I'd check the bottom of the slide for burrs, but it could also just be that the tolerances are allowing it to rub. It's not ideal, but IMO it' purely cosmetic and won't likely cause any long-term problems with the gun.

Thank you! I was afraid of telling my wife I have to spend money on fixing a firearm that costs a lot as is.

Discussing the lubrication and wear patterns of SIG Classic line pistols as if they have any relevance to the P320 family of guns is an apples to rutabagas comparison.

The slides of the Classic guns ride directly on the rails of their metal frames which in turn are the support structures for the slides. Because anodizing adds strength to the aluminum frames, if that finish wears off, the frames’ structural integrity is lessened and in extreme cases that can result in the frame rails’ breaking away from the rest of the frame and rendering the gun unserviceable. That’s why finish wear on the aluminum frames of P2xx-series guns can be a matter of concern.

The slides of the P320 family of pistols, however, are not supported by the grip modules, but rather by small tabs that are part of the stainless steel serial numbered receiver that holds the other parts of the fire control unit such as the trigger and sear mechanisms. Because the slide to receiver contact of the P320 is steel on steel, the finish on neither one has any significant effect on their strength.

The finish wear that’s pointed out in the linked photos is on the aluminum grip module* of the AXG model. Whether it is made of aluminum alloy or more commonly polymer, the P320 grip module does not support the slide directly and therefore any wear such as is visible in the photos is purely cosmetic and has no more effect on the functioning or safety of the gun than a ding on the grip module caused by dropping it on the ground or finish wear caused by a holster.
SIG could probably prevent any wear from occurring on the grip module by increasing the clearance between the slide and module, but that would leave a gap that would then be the complaint du jour that could be cited by the SIGophobes as evidence that the designers of the module—like everything else—were total incompetents.

One could put lube on the grip module where the slide is contacting it and causing the finish wear, but my attitude is that it would just be something to migrate off onto a holster or clothing for no practical purpose.

* The grip module is not, BTW, actually the “frame” of the P320. Frame is another term for the serial numbered part of a gun which can also be called the receiver. Unfortunately, I can already see that “frame” will be carelessly used more and more in the future to refer to the P320 grip module and in time the term will come to mean something that it doesn’t today.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: sigfreund,

Thanks for that very intelligent reply to my cry for help! I am mistaken - it is called the grip module indeed.