I've been on a search to replace my '94 P229 as EDC. Tried the VP9 and PPQ first. Preferred the P229 to both of those. Bought a P320 Carry a couple months ago. Went to the range and shot it well. However, while shooting at 25 yards, I got a click with no bang. Waited for a possible hangfire, then dropped the mag and cleared the round. Checked the round in question and no primer strike. Chalked it up to a short stroke (didn't let out to reset), loaded it back in the mag and continued on. Later, I was thinking about it and swore I had a click. Went back to read double click threads and dry fire tested and could make the sear fail to reset on demand.

Called SIG and CS said they could do the same on the sample they had, but live fire it didn't matter. I told them I did have a dead trigger live fire and they sent me a shipping label to return it for service. Sent it off and got a phone call back that they couldn't replicate the issue, and they were sending it back to me. When I got it back, they had part of the Blazer brass ammo box they used.

Finally got a chance to shoot it again today. Slow fire at 10 yards, tried to induce for the first five rounds and couldn't. Felt better about it. Had a nice tight group going so I continued slow fire. Four rounds later, there it is. Dead trigger. Click, click, click. Showed my shooting buddy, press checked to show live round (which also reset the striker since the sear had now been reset). Back on target and bang.

Two instances in roughly 250 rounds fired. Only happens during slow fire where I am being very deliberate. No problems shooting at pace, double taps or rapid fire. I shoot the P320 as good or better than the P229. I like the lighter weight and increased capacity.

So, the question to you is:

Question:
Given the information above, do you carry it?

Choices:
Yes, it only happens when finessing the trigger, it won't happen when your adrenaline is going in a DGU
No, any pistol that has had known instances of a dead trigger cannot be trusted for defensive use
Other (explain)

 

I voted other, keep shooting it as a range gun until you get more rounds through it to see if this gets corrected, gets worse, or you figure out what is happening.

Not ready for defensive Carry at this time.

I would send it to the trash heap, just actually have SIG give me a new gun.

I had one just like it!!! Rep on phone said "it's fine, some do that!" NRA show SIG rep said that was BS, it's not right by all means send it back.

Ultimately have had 3 320's: one with trigger slap that stung my trigger after 15 - 20 rounds it became painful, then the above issue with my second. Got rid of both.

Just recently decided to try a 3rd, now I have a new "heavy slide" i.e. No relief cuts or drain holes, with a manual safety. Sweet shooting, accurate which is worthy of traditional SIG name.

Best,
Dave

quote:

Originally posted by matthew03:
I voted other, keep shooting it as a range gun until you get more rounds through it to see if this gets corrected, gets worse, or you figure out what is happening.

Not ready for defensive Carry at this time.

I know what's happening. It's the "double click" issue that everyone says is a non-issue. The first click is the striker being released. If your trigger pull doesn't go to the second click, it doesn't reset the sear, so when the slide cycles, the striker isn't caught and cocked. At this point, the pistol has reloaded, but the striker isn't cocked. When you pull the trigger again, it then hits the sear reset and clicks. But it needs the slide to be retracted again to cock the striker.

It seems some people's double click happens almost simultaneously. Mine has a noticeable gap between them. So when I'm working on accuracy and applying just enough trigger press to break the shot, it's not traveling far enough to reset the sear.

My gut tells me it's not ready for prime time. No properly functioning pistol should ever have a dead trigger. But my head keeps trying to reason that under normal circumstances it won't occur. Hell, I haven't been able to deliberately make it happen.

At this point, I'm thinking I'm going to have to video a range session and if it happens again, send it to SIG again with video.

ETA: I forgot to mention in the OP that today I used Blazer brass, same as the factory. Not that this is ammo related, but it did occur with the same brand of ammo they used.

I voted "Other" for now as I have only shot my "new to me" P-320 about 300 rounds with one FTE. I don't bet my life on a weapon that "may" have a problem. My trusty P-228 has seen thousands of rounds without any malfunctions even dirty/wet/dusty. I trust that gun to work. My P-320 still has work to do to get to that level of trust. It is also my first striker fire weapon so I'm still learning the system. Chris

quote:

Originally posted by Chris Anchor:
I voted "Other" for now as I have only shot my "new to me" P-320 about 300 rounds with one FTE. I don't bet my life on a weapon that "may" have a problem. My trusty P-228 has seen thousands of rounds without any malfunctions even dirty/wet/dusty. I trust that gun to work. My P-320 still has work to do to get to that level of trust. It is also my first striker fire weapon so I'm still learning the system. Chris

Im guessing you didn't really read the post, just the title and skipped right to the poll. It's okay, that happens a lot.

You could ask Gray Guns about it. They could do a trigger job and fix the issue at the same time.

I exeperienced the same issue last weekend shooting steel - only difference is I wasn't trying to make it happen.

Don't remember if I was shooting quick or slow fire and maybe unconsciously riding the reset but after calling sig, they said that the trigger wasn't pulled far enough to reset the striker and that it's by design and a non issue.

On mine the 'click' of the striker occurs at the very end of the trigger pull, there is no creep or over travel whatsoever after the "double click" of the striker resetting.

I did go back to the range this week and shot the snot out of it, and no dead trigger this time.

I've probably put 500-700 rounds through the gun and only one instance of dead trigger. I have the same concerns as the op regarding being ready for duty.


-Freq

My Compact has the double-clicks but never a dead trigger. Me I'd have a near impossible time trusting this gun of yours. Happening once, I might find it in me to ultimately forgive...after a few thousand subsequent rounds of flawless function. Happening twice in such a short period of time, with the second coming AFTER a (somewhat) clean bill of health from the manufacturer...there's zero justification for trust. Even if it came down to something that I the user was doing "wrong" that caused this, the fact that I don't know what that "wrong" might be...I don't see how this specific gun can ever be considered trustworthy. Especially without any sort of actual identification of what the root cause is.

But that's me.

Its not right. And regardless of model, no Sig should do that. Keep working with Sig until its fully corrected.

quote:

Originally posted by BuddyChryst:

quote:

Originally posted by Chris Anchor:
I voted "Other" for now as I have only shot my "new to me" P-320 about 300 rounds with one FTE. I don't bet my life on a weapon that "may" have a problem. My trusty P-228 has seen thousands of rounds without any malfunctions even dirty/wet/dusty. I trust that gun to work. My P-320 still has work to do to get to that level of trust. It is also my first striker fire weapon so I'm still learning the system. Chris

Im guessing you didn't really read the post, just the title and skipped right to the poll. It's okay, that happens a lot.

I actually did read your post. I was relating my experience with the P-320 I own and have shot. Since it's new to me I'm still trying to it figure out. To answer the question/poll directly a big No. If you can't trust that gun to go bang every single time or at least strings of hundreds of rounds then I wouldn't stick in my holster. They say the average gun fight is seconds leaving very little time for a "tap-rack-bang". It has been posted in another thread that the P=320 has a ton of little parts sounds like more to fail. There has also been a series of posts on this forum as well as others about different problems shooters have had with the system while others talk about how smooth running the guns are. I think it's like a car some just work and then the same model is a lemon. Myself will keep running this one till it proves to me it works. IMHO Chris

I have sold pistols for less.

Yeah, any pistol that did that to me wouldn't be getting carried until the cause could be identified and a fair number of rounds fired after wards to ensure the problem is gone. I agree with the suggestion to get in touch with Bruce Gray. That is, if you're tied to making this one work.

quote:

Originally posted by P220 Smudge:
Yeah, any pistol that did that to me wouldn't be getting carried until the cause could be identified and a fair number of rounds fired after wards to ensure the problem is gone. I agree with the suggestion to get in touch with Bruce Gray. That is, if you're tied to making this one work.

I'm sure Bruce would make it sweet. But I don't do aftermarket mods. I'm well aware of Gray Guns capabilities, but I don't think it's too much to ask that the factory pistol works as intended.

I do understand that if I followed through to the trigger stop, I'd be okay. But to me, a pistol shouldn't require a certain trigger pull to ensure proper working order. I should be able to apply just enough pressure to break the shot without worrying if the next one is going to fire.

quote:

Originally posted by BuddyChryst:
a pistol shouldn't require a certain trigger pull to ensure proper working order.

Agree 100%.

As to your original question, no I would not trust a pistol that under any circumstance could present me with a dead trigger.

For the range? Maybe. For defense? Absolutely not.

Unacceptable in a modern defensive pistol.

Even more unacceptable that SIG's answer basically boils down to "Oh, that? Yeah, they do that sometimes".

Nope.jpg

I definitely wouldn't trust a pistol that does that. More importantly, why do you see the need to change from a 1994 P229? No way I'd give up a classic like that for a polymer frame striker fired gun.

Sure am glad I've held off on the P320. I've had zero issues with my P250 - it's an oddball (like me) in .380 but runs like a scalded cat. I had the same (light strike) thing happen with a Kahr CT-380 - and it is still sitting on the consignment stack at one of the LGS. In Kahr's defense, I think the striker channel was dirty. I cleaned it up and could not get it to fail again. But, like Sammael just said: Unacceptable in a modern defensive pistol...

I am having a failure to reset on my new P320F RX. Prior to firing a single round I replaced the trigger with a curved PELT. Multiple failures to reset, Grayguns helped & I was able to get 2 more in 140 dry fires. Went to the range yesterday & on the 3rd & 4th mag got failures on the 1st rd. then mutiples in a row again. Sometimes if I release the trigger after the first try it will then reset. Today I put the original trigger back in the gun & will go to the range in the am. One anomaly is the measured trigger pull is 1lb to 1.5lbs higher than my other P320's.

What caliber is your P320?

tp

Sounds like the trigger bar return spring is damaged. If you used the lighter spring included with the trigger, that can very well cause a failure to reset. I installed on in a new 320 X5 and the trigger would not reset. Replacing it with the stock spring returned it to perfect operating condition. Bruce said it happens to some 320's and short of taking the gun apart to smooth all the friction points the stock spring must by used. It's not unheard of.