I love front strap checkering like you would find on a 1911 and have always wished my P220 had it.

It seems like in the past I have seen where a person can have the front strap checkered but I do not recall any details or who would do it.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

You would have to find someone who is willing to destroy the anodization in that area.

Yep. I looked into this years ago and almost no one would do an AL frame for that reason.

A 220ST would be a different story, however.

I was afraid of this, Q and Oat. But, I thought I would ask. I'm not very knowledgeable in regard to this but I sure do like the checkering.

Seems someone posted a pic of having it done years ago.

I imagine any competent smith who does checkering could be talked into it if you assured him you were going to have it re-coated/painted/re-anodized/whatever afterward.

This guy did a Vertec grip conversion/checkering/reshaping on his Beretta 92FS and had it re-anodized for example
https://youtu.be/RNuQRfemo3A

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z7UPi22XVfc

Thanks, 1k. I'll look up Allegheny Gun Works. I have tried the Wilson Combat strap but it didn't work too well. I could try to trim it and attach it with some 60 second epoxy like a guy on another forum did to his AMT backup. It turned out nice.

Get a sheet of Talon Grip material. DIY the front strap. Worked for me.

IIRC, ROBAR used to do some work on SIG's that might have included some front strap treatment.

I'd say your best bet would be to contact one of the local refinishers here...if it can be done, they probably know.

That being said, and not being an expert by any stretch, I'd be hard pressed to checker an alloy frame. Skateboard tape is definitely the safest route (and actually works fairly well).

Boss

The issue here is that the original factory anodization will need to be stripped off the aluminum frame before it can be reanodized. Remember, for every 0.001" of external anodization, the aluminum core of the frame has about 0.001" anodization PENETRATION into the aluminum. So to get the old anodization off the frame, you need the anodization removed that has penetrated into the aluminum.
It's usually chemically stripped.
This will cause dimensional problems on machined surfaces and precision holes.
Trigger, hammer, sear, takedown lever holes.
(all precision holes in the frame)
External frame precision surfaces.
Frame rails, locking block mounting surfaces.
Stripping anodization and reapplying anodization ALWAYS causes a net loss of core material.
That's just the way anodization works.
And that's the reason SIG doesn't do it.

Don't know if they will do it for outside brands but I sent my EMP to Springfields Custom Shop where they machined checkered the front/rear strap, slide serrations, and did the frame refin. You can give them a call if you haven't any other options, or try Nighthawk Custom. They did some custom machine work on my Eb Brown KC because at that time Ed Brown would not do that type of work, ie; slide top serrations, serrations on rear of slide, flush cut and crown the barrel, new sights etc. Nighthawk Custom also refinished the KC and the work was superb.

I'm a huge proponent of not monkeying with an original aluminum frame. With that said, I ran across this custom Colt Commander the other day on one of the on-line auctions. Knowing it is an aluminum framed pistol, I was immediately drawn to the outstanding quality of the custom front strap checkering and refinishing. The work on this pistol was performed by Pistol Dynamics in 2015. Other than their name, I know nothing more about this shop. If you are determined to have your P220 checkered, this outfit may be worth a look. Good luck with your project.

quote:

Originally posted by BennerP220:
Thanks, 1k. I'll look up Allegheny Gun Works. I have tried the Wilson Combat strap but it didn't work too well. I could try to trim it and attach it with some 60 second epoxy like a guy on another forum did to his AMT backup. It turned out nice.

I had just contacted Allegheny Gun Works this week about some work, they are closed for work for now, according to Josh there.

Thanks Guys.

Yeah, Josh wrote me back telling me to try back in a month.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: BennerP220,

How does the width of the front strap compare size wise to a 1911? (I no longer own any 220's to check) Just wondering if the "add on" checkering that fits under the grip could be made to work?



This is quite humorous to mw, I spent a fair amount of time tonight with a Les Baer 1911 and some sand paper dulling the checking because it's way too sharp. Not a fan of checker front straps, I prefer grip tape. All my P220's had it, as do most of my 1911's. Heck I've put grip tape OVER checkering. "An ass for every seat."

https://shopwilsoncombat.com/C...ue/productinfo/100B/

I had one of these on a 1911. Rather liked it. May be an option.

Always figured if I kept it, I’d run a little JB Weld under it.

I got a gun with a checkered front strap so, I didn’t make it “permanent”.

quote:

Originally posted by Sgt 127:
https://shopwilsoncombat.com/C...ue/productinfo/100B/

I had one of these on a 1911. Rather liked it. May be an option.

Always figured if I kept it, I’d run a little JB Weld under it.

I got a gun with a checkered front strap so, I didn’t make it “permanent”.

According to the reviews:
"this works beautifully! Slid straight on to my 1911, looks great and really improves the feel! Im ordering more, not just for my other 1911, but also for a Sig P220 [it needs to be shortened a bit, but fits!]."

I’ve used those Wilson combat pieces before. It never stayed out for me. One guy trimmed one for his AMT Backup and used a 60 second epoxy to keep it on. I have thought about that but I haven’t figured out how I’d actually place it and hold it in place as it cured. Plus, that seems permanent which is fine as long as I could get it placed and set perfectly when I did it.

quote:

Originally posted by BennerP220:
I haven’t figured out how I’d actually place it and hold it in place as it cured.

Grip panels? Rubber bands?

While not a P220, I had Allegheny Gun Works in Pittsburgh, PA "round off" the triggerguard on my Beretta 92FS. It was they who re-anodized the frame or they had it sent out for the process. It looks great and you'd never know the gun was refinished. AGW does great work in general, INCLUDING checkering. AFAIK, they specialize in Berettas, but google and contact them to see if they'll work on your SIG.

1K, rubber bands is something I hadn’t thought of. Thanks.

I contacted Allegheny but they are closed for now. How was the pricing kaschi?