After waiting way too long, I finally bought a NIB Dan Wesson Valor 1911 Combat Commander. It's the all stainless steel version in 45 ACP and I can hardly wait to get it. There are a couple of changes I will be making to it. First, the hammer will be replaced with a "Bullet Proof Retro Stainless Commander Ring Hammer" from Wilson Combat. Another change will be replacing the extended thumb safety with a stainless "Harrison Design & Consulting Thumb Safety".
Now, here's my question: Are there any sources for an original profile Stainless Commander Grip Safety? I've looked high and low but have found nothing (yet). Any leads as to where one could be obtained?

What's the reason for replacing all those parts? With a firearm like the Valor they're not exactly drop-in and will require a gunsmith to fit them.

Congratulations. My Valor is probably my favorite pistol. You'd be hard pressed to convince me there is a better production level 1911 out there. Maybe I got lucky, but the fit and finish on mine is just about perfect. I'm not a fan of the long aluminum trigger from an aesthetic standpoint, but I'm not going to change it. It's ugly, but it feels SUPER nice.

I have 4 DWs (2009 & 2010 models) and after initial detail stripping and looking to eliminate any minor burrs before firing, they've all been rock solid reliable.

Only changes I've made is to go with short triggers on the top two and change of the grips on all to suit my tastes. The controls have been perfect.

But I do understand individual preferences which also include the various controls. If you swap some out you need to ensure proper fit and function as others earlier pointed out.

For a long time the DW V Bob was the only 1911 I was interested in. My example is a high quality firearm , I think you made a wise choice. To get anything better you's have to spend a lot more money. Even then spending twice the money is not going to get you twice the quality.

I would run 300 rounds through it before making any changes. Make sure it runs right before you make changes that have a chance of not making it run right.

The DW 1911's are very well made pistols. They're fit and finished well enough that I wouldn't consider one for "upgrade." Everything in them works well and fits well. The triggers are great, links and slides tight and smooth. No play pressing on the barrel hood, no slide play. Extractors tight. I don't know if they're still selling blemished pistols; they used to (I have a couple), but even with those, the work is quite satisfactory.

I'm not knocking Wilson, which makes very good products, nor the decision to use Wilson parts. Just saying that with Dan Wesson pistols, while you could replace parts, there's no need. I wouldn't.

The Dan Wesson Valor is already a fantastically well-made, hand-fitted 1911. Any new parts will need to be similarly hand-fitted. (It's not like an AR or Glock, where you can swap parts around like Legos in 5 minutes at your kitchen table...)

I just don't see the value in paying a different gunsmith to custom fit some different parts to a new Valor, but to each his own.

Here's mine:

So it's ergonomics and maybe a bit of aesthetics that are driving these desired changes? Then you probably shouldn't shoot the Valor first because if you do you likely will develop second thoughts about messing with it at all. Just saying...

It's a mighty fine pistol as-is. I'm loathe to call any gun "perfection" but that's kinda sorta the deal that you're playing with here. I thoroughly enjoy how the full size shoots and handles; I would imagine that the Commander is more of the same. Of course it's your gun to do with as you see fit.

My two Valors are both 9mm and just about perfect out of box. I shot my stainless a bunch then cleaned it and put it away. I exclusively shoot my blued Valor (not armor tuff but blued). I can’t imagine changing out those parts would improve your gun and depending on who did the work might come out worse. I’m sure you have your reasons but maybe shoot it a bunch first. Sounds like a pricy change for little gain. Of course that is unsolicited advice which I hate so ignore it if you choose which I also probably would. Lol

What do you mean by "original profile Grip Safety"? No bump, like on the original 1911's? If so, it's a decidedly bad idea.

The bump on the grip safety was developed to correct an early problem as 1911's started to move away from the original Mil-Spec design. Extended thumb safety along with high thumb shooting grip changed the way the hand is placed on the grip safety. It created a void which was prone to not fully depressing the grip safety, hence the bump.

My 1911's all have standard, original GI profile thumb safeties. Suits my shooting style. However, they still have the bump grip safeties, since that's the standard nowadays. When I ordered my Wilson Pro in 2005, I had them fabricate a WC non-extended GI-style thumb safety. The Retro you mentions is still larger than a GI and would probably necessitate a thumb-high position as well.

Another factor in reliable depressing of the grip safety is the fit of the grip safety nose (internal). Some require the safety to be nearly FULLY depressed (pushed forward) to reliably release the sear. Depending on your hands and technique it can be problematic. I have tuned my grip safeties to release the sear after about 20% forward travel, rather than, let's say 60-70% forward travel. Still maintains the safety factor, but without the risk of not fully depressing it to allow the sear release/firing. If you are not familiar with internal grip safety functioning, all it does is block the sear until properly depressed.

A friend of mine bought a top end WC a number of years ago. Had issues with grip safety/sear release, which he thought was his own grip. I checked the pistol and determined the grip safety didn't release the sear until it was about 90% depressed. Sent it back and they corrected it.

I'll second some of the other comments:

1) Shoot the gun first with the original components. That's your baseline for reliability.

2) If you want to replace components, they will likely have to be fitted. Unless an entire 1911 is Mil-Spec and you replace the parts with other Mil-Spec, the odds are some fitting may be required.

I've been shooting 1911's since the Sixties. Personally I'd leave it factory, but it's your gun.

Good luck.

What Nipper said. Shooting two handed I never have an issue. If I shoot one handed I occasionally have my grip in a position that doesn’t activate the grip safety. That’s with the bump, without would be a disaster for me.

Congratulations on finally getting a Valor. It was on my list for years and I finally brought one home a month and a half ago after a 6 month layaway. I still haven’t had a chance to begin the break in yet. I gotta tell you, I’m leaving mine exactly as is. Aesthetically it is about as good as it get IMO, and it sure seems like DW has the build quality nailed down. Mine is a V-BOB in the natural stainless in .45 ACP. I cannot wait to shoot it. I’ve already got some Kramer leather on the way for it.
Let’s hope they both run as good as they look! It sounds like we both waited a good long time to finally get one.

Congrats on the Valor, I’ve long wanted one... but why would you pay that much for a gun that wasn’t what you actually wanted?

I don't think there is such a thing as an original Colt Commander grip safety in stainless. By the time they were making stainless guns, they had gone to the GM grip safety cut away to clear the burr hammer, the "rat tail" grip safety.
I suppose you could have a blue grip safety nickel or chrome plated for a cosmetic match.

Be advised that replacing a beavertail with a plain grip safety is not going to look like a gun made with the plain grip safety. The frame "horns" are cut to a uniform radius for the beavertail and will be visibly short on the plain grip safety.

quote:

Originally posted by pedropcola:
What Nipper said. Shooting two handed I never have an issue. If I shoot one handed I occasionally have my grip in a position that doesn’t activate the grip safety. That’s with the bump, without would be a disaster for me.

Any decent 1911 gunsmith could easily tune the grip safety. It just involves gradually stoning down the nose of the grip safety where it meets the sear.

I did my own, It's a PITA, since it's a stone and then install back into the frame to see the travel distance before sear release. Had to repeat the process a number of times to see effect of each stoning. Patience is required. The worst that can happen is you remove too much. If that is done, the gun will fire without the grip safety being depressed.

I like about 20% forward travel before release. Retains the safety mechanism and eliminates the problem you noted.

quote:

Originally posted by Jim Watson:
I don't think there is such a thing as an original Colt Commander grip safety in stainless.

Well here's my 1987 vintage customized Colt MKIV built with a stainless Swenson "original" beavertail grip safety without pad (rare, and long out of production). Among other things, it also features the unusual (and long discontinued) Ed Brown wedge mainspring housing which I stippled.

Yes, this is my only 1911 with a non-pad grip safety. That said it works just fine although I will admit I do indeed prefer the padded style.

Firstly, thank you for the input. Since my initial post, I went to the Dan Wesson Firearms website and sent them a message about the parts for which I'm searching(ring hammer, non-extended thumb safety, grip safety W/O beavertail). I'll let you know what they reply. By the way, one of the 1911s they made in the past (the Valkyrie) has the Commander style ring hammer.
Some of you are wondering why I want to "replace all those parts" (as someone put it). Well, quite simply I WANT THE OLD SCHOOL 1911 COMMANDER LOOK in an all stainless steel quality NIB pistol for a fee that won't break the piggy bank. The Valor fills that bill! Period! I will definitely run the gun first before making the changes.
One comment regarding the SS grip safety: Colt made some "Enhanced" 1911s, (IIRC the term they used) in the late 80s or early 90s. I believe they were stainless steel. If my memory is correct, the grip safeties would have in all likelihood been SS. But, I could be wrong about that.

The bump on the grip safety is necessary for a lot of people since everyone stopped putting arched mainspring housings on their guns 10+ years ago. The arched mainspring housing pushed your grip further up into the proper place for the grip safety.

For some people even sensitizing and the bump are not enough. lol

You're after parts that people used to take off and replace. Maybe WTB ads in the various 1911 forums for some used stuff. New or used, I don't know how you'd ever get them to match. (though some people don't care)