https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JKs-7iy5Ui4

I found the above video helpful when caring
for my P-series Sig pistols.
Hope you find it useful.
Regards, Jack

One question, which might have been answered in the original post...

Did the OP also shoot the pistol or is it just the new owner shooting it?

I never believed in Limp Wristing until I shot a friend's brand new Glock 19 and he pointed out I was. I could not cause a malfunction on any of my Ruger P95s by holding them loose...but then I watched my sister in law do it.

So, my latest suggestion... clean lube with grease and hold the pistol tight... down on a bench even better and put 50 to 100 rounds through it and then see how it does...

quote:

Originally posted by Blume9mm:
One question, which might have been answered in the original post...

Did the OP also shoot the pistol or is it just the new owner shooting it?

I never believe in Limp Wristing until I shot a friends brand new Glock 19 and he pointed out I was. I could not cause a malfunction on any of my Ruger P95s by holding them loose...but then I watched my sister in law do it.

Good question. Yes I did shoot the pistol and it jammed on the third round just as it did for him.

I have found it literally impossible to induce a so-called “limp wrist” malfunction in Classic line SIGs, and there is at least one YouTube video of someone trying it with a P226 and without success. That of course assumes that the gun is properly lubricated (did I mention that already?).

Does that mean it would be impossible for a particular person with a particular gun? No, but in my and others’ deliberate tests and in my experience with novice women shooters and 9mm P226s, I’ve never seen it. It doesn’t hurt to consider all possibilities, and it’s good the OP tested the gun himself, but that’s unlikely to be the primary cause with a P226.

In my experience, I cant think of a single gun in the entire industray that absolute REQUIRES lube like a Sig P226 does. It has those long massive aluminum rails and they need lubrication. Grease is best on this platform in my opinion.

Grease the gun. Try again.

Clean the magazine. If its one of those parkerized ones, they can suck. Clean the inside of the magazine with a metal brush and solvent. Scrub it for ten minutes. Wash it out, spray it down with lube, wipe out all the lube with a clean rag until no lube is left. A heavy application of parkerization can cause malfunctions. That sand paper crap needs cleaned out of the magazine internals.

If possible, break in new guns with hotter ammo than Blazer brass. Try some 9MM NATO or S&B ammo or some Italian Fiochi. I keep cases of Federal +P+ and it breaks in guns just perfect.

When I purchased my first P239-40 I went from the counter into the range and ran 100 rounds down range. Did not have one single malfunction. Actually haven't EVER had a pistol related failure with either P239 and my #1 has at least 5000 rounds downrange. BTW, #1 was purchased New in Box and # 2 was used and nearly NIB condition, didn't even have a Sig smile on the barrel. So, I can only conclude the P239 is a bit more tolerant of running dry. Note, I'm a believer in using enough lube to require wiping the pistol down after assembly. I'll also note that both of my P239's are baby rattles but very accurate pistols, which may be why my #1 ran so well when dry.

As for the P229 series, mine is a 40 caliber Elite Stainless and being stainless steel I have ALWAYS run it good and wet with lube. BTW, been shaping Stainless steel tubing since 1982 and know first hand about how Stainless Steel will gall if you look at it the wrong way.

quote:

Originally posted by frayedends:
It's a new gun. We were both using Blazer brass. It's all he could get since he just bought it last week and it's what I use or WWB depending on price for practice.

My 226 had some issues when using range ammo, but after 1600 rounds it ate anything. I noticed with Fiocchi and S&B there were never any problems.

Please help.
My new pistol is dry, I'm using weak ammo and it won't run.


Hall of Fame post right there.

quote:

Originally posted by DirectDrive:
Please help.
My new pistol is dry, I'm using weak ammo and it won't run.


Hall of Fame post right there.

I like your post DirectDrive, it made me laugh but let us be understanding to the OP, we all had to start from the beginning with firearms and we all made some mistakes.

I hope you like jammin' too.

quote:

Originally posted by John3200:
<snip>
All SIGs should work 100% out of the box.

My experience differs somewhat. My 9mm P226 X5 Comp had a few cycling failures over its first 300 rounds. All FTEx or FTEj. Flawless since with several thousand rounds through it. My P238 had a few early-on cycling issues too, but now perfect. The P238 was utterly devoid of lube out of the box, so I lubed it prior to its first range trip.

Reminds me of a story:

My 2nd of 4 times taking the Front Sight defensive hand gun course (4 days) I took my new Sig P226 and on the 2nd or 3ed day one of the instructors came over to me and said the pistol was going to jam because I had over lubed it (with oil) and the sand and dust from the dessert would mess it up....
(side note... my roomy on these this trips is a retired marine D.I./gunny and he requires at the end of each day that we immediately go back to the room and clean our guns before going out to eat and socialize) P226 never even thought about malfunctioning over these four days and 650 rounds.

But then you know you should be careful once you become an 'expert' with what you say... last time I went the nice guy in the repair shop there with a big Glock tattoo explained to me how my new Sig P320 compact would never be very accurate because of the slight wiggle in the slide... here's my score on the timed shooting test with it: 0-0-0

Everyone here has covered almost every possibility for your 226 "jamming". The only thing I can add to check is the extractor. Be sure it can move freely, it may need a drop of oil. After oiling use a small piece of plastic or wood to flex the extractor outward several times and the spring should push it back. The Sig P series use a type of controlled round feed, where the rim must slip UNDER the extractor as it slides up on the breach face. It does not snap over it like some designs. If the extractor does not smoothly flex outward to allow the rim to slip under during feeding you will experience the exact type of malfunction you describe.
The final possibility, although I have never seen it on a Sig, is a small burr on the breech face itself. Again preventing the base of the shell from smoothly sliding upward under the extractor as the round feeds up the ramp. Hope this helps.

Why the heck didn't he or you clean and lube it before shooting it first would be my question.

When I get a new one I strip all the gunk they slather on it off. Lube and grease her up properly and do a semi ramp polish. I just take a handful of q-tips and some flitz turn on TV and go over the ramp for half an hour until they stop coming off with black/gray on them. This will not reprofile the ramp at all and not cause any damage like a Dremel might if you go too aggressive. Pretty much error proof. You can easily tell a difference though if you run your finger over ramp before and after. Call it a poor man's ramp polish if you will. Likely completely unnecessary, but it's just what I do (polishing part, not the clean/lube part).

Always a good idea to clean and re-lube any new pistol before going to the range but I have to agree with the post about the extractor May have issues

Chevys run well without lube, too. /s