If I could find it and afford it, an older S&W model 19 or 28 would be my choice for a combat revolver. Unfortunately I can't. I do have a GP100, and am very happy with it. I like the mechanics of the design better than the Smiths (no side plate), and it is built like a tank. The triggers on the old S&Ws are better than the one on my GP100, but my Ruger's trigger is as good or better than those on the newer Smiths I've tried.

A four inch Ruger Security Six is worth looking for, as well. Not as heavy as a GP-100, more durable than a K Frame Smith, which is close to the same size and weight.

I'll throw another vote in for S&W's Model 19. Mine was brought in the '70's and gun-wise the best bucks I ever spent.

It kind of depends how much you plan to shoot it, and I don't mean from a revolver durability standpoint, more from a personal comfort standpoint.

I have both a 4" Model 19 and a 4" GP 100. I baby the 19, and full house loads hurt my hand. I shoot Saturn Vs out of my GP, and the gun and grips just suck up the recoil. The 19 is much lighter, and if I was carrying it all day, it would be more comfortable, but to sling lead at the range, or to carry in the swamps of Florida, where dirt and wet are everywhere, the stainless GP gets the nod.

Pictures of both for comparison purposes are half way down this page.

quote:

Originally posted by Bigboreshooter:
Ruger GP100 or S&W 686 are pretty hard to beat.

I agree. Buy a new example of whichever one catches your eye and shoot it the rest of your life. I've owned 686's and GP100's and both are good guns.

quote:

Originally posted by sns3guppy:

No need. The ruger is stronger in every respect. Heavier topstrap, more material in every place, and while there are plenty of handloads in the books for "ruger only," I've yet to see a single one labeled "s&w only." There's a reason for that.

Does the "ruger only" apply to all Rugers, or only the Redhawks and Blackhawks, which I know are extra stout?

Got a special 5" GP100. Simply amazing!

I could not be happier with my SW Performance Center 627.

quote:

Originally posted by wgsigs:

quote:

Originally posted by sns3guppy:

No need. The ruger is stronger in every respect. Heavier topstrap, more material in every place, and while there are plenty of handloads in the books for "ruger only," I've yet to see a single one labeled "s&w only." There's a reason for that.

Does the "ruger only" apply to all Rugers, or only the Redhawks and Blackhawks, which I know are extra stout?

Honestly, I would never buy / load such loads. It's just a matter of time until someone puts the "Ruger only" round in the wrong gun after a mix-up.

Stick to the published SAAMI Pressure recommendations.

That said, here is an example... https://www.buffalobore.com/in...=product_detail&p=54

You can still find some old classics at reasonable prices. They are out there if you look for them. You sure won't find a bargain SW K frame on GB auctions. Here is a S&W Model 19-4 nickel that I picked up for $440 at a small local gunshop. You can tell it was cared for and shot little.

quote:

Originally posted by wgsigs:

quote:

Originally posted by sns3guppy:

No need. The ruger is stronger in every respect. Heavier topstrap, more material in every place, and while there are plenty of handloads in the books for "ruger only," I've yet to see a single one labeled "s&w only." There's a reason for that.

Does the "ruger only" apply to all Rugers, or only the Redhawks and Blackhawks, which I know are extra stout?

As far as I know "Ruger only" loads refer to 45 Colt loads. These are warning labels to keep someone from shooting hot 45 Colt handloads in a gun built for the older 45 Colt loads. I don't think any 357 magnum load within acceptable pressure ranges would be an issue in a S&W 686.

Obviously, it depends on what the indented use is, but I keyed in on "price is not a factor" so consider Dan Wesson 715. You buy it as a package with 4, 6, & 8 inch barrels. Or maybe a Korth, now imported by NighHawk. On the other hand, skip the Korth and buy a safe.

quote:

Originally posted by jaybirdaccountant:

quote:

Originally posted by wgsigs:

quote:

Originally posted by sns3guppy:

No need. The ruger is stronger in every respect. Heavier topstrap, more material in every place, and while there are plenty of handloads in the books for "ruger only," I've yet to see a single one labeled "s&w only." There's a reason for that.

Does the "ruger only" apply to all Rugers, or only the Redhawks and Blackhawks, which I know are extra stout?

As far as I know "Ruger only" loads refer to 45 Colt loads. These are warning labels to keep someone from shooting hot 45 Colt handloads in a gun built for the older 45 Colt loads. I don't think any 357 magnum load within acceptable pressure ranges would be an issue in a S&W 686.

I know Buffalo Bore makes .44mag loads that they don’t approve for S&W. Ruger revolvers are fine.

Dan Wesson 715, fantastic revolver.
If you can find one.

Ruger GP 100, or GP 100 Match Champion.

One of my personal favorites and also mentioned by LtJL, a five-inch barrelled 27-2.

Another option also mentioned a couple of times, a minty 28 (in this case, “pre-28” Highway Patrolman).

The ultimate S&W Bank Note. He said price is not a factor and wants quality, right? Only $6k to get him in the door.

quote:

Honestly, I would never buy / load such loads. It's just a matter of time until someone puts the "Ruger only" round in the wrong gun after a mix-up. Stick to the published SAAMI Pressure recommendations.

Very good advice. Rod

I bought a GP100 in 4 inch when we had to buy our own weapons. It is a 4 inch and later Ruger had to increase the barrel length to 4.2 inch so they could be imported into Canada. Recently added a 3 inch to the family but have not shot it yet.