Oddly, we're in the opposite boat. I just packaged my M18 with an RMA for Sig to mail back Monday for repairs. Coincidentally enough, I picked up an old Trooper at the gun show a few weeks back, shot it, loved it and it's currently doing living room table home defense duty.
Posts: 847 | Location: Alaska | Registered: April 29, 2015
I think the 320 was one of the most innovative guns of the last few years. (I can't shoot them to save my life...and gave up after three copies...) I pretty much stuck to Glocks after that.
I still regret selling them. In CA, we can only get those second hand from LEO's or someone who brought them into the state legally. I may pick up our only option that just was introduced:
Excellent price, going rate been $650 for civilians. Slightly less for the gubmint. Bought mine and immediately sent the slide to Sig because of dead sights. Voiced my annoyance about lack of owners manual despite the inclusion of a library of useless paper. He said that was their number 1 complaint. They will sell you one or you can download it for free. I downloaded and printed from page 18? on. Manual doesn't tell you that you have to pull the trigger to remove the slide on models w safety. Fast turn around on slide, They replaced the front and said they cleaned carbon off the rear, this on a unfired pistol. Sights still not good enough for my old eyes. Put a Romeo Zero on it. Would have rather had a Leopold but $$$ damn. Enjoy your M18
Posts: 112 | Location: Deep south | Registered: August 31, 2008
Paid more than that myself. I'm with you 100%, maybe it's all the years in the Army, but I'm a manual safety guy also. Carried the M9 and M17 a-lot; very effective and durable (Although I do not care for the extended/21rnd mags. M-18 was a natural buy. Very happy with it (Although my LASIK eyes have trouble with the front sight; factory sights do seem a bit dim, but plan on swapping it out for a Heine fiber-optic)
May I suggest you try the Wilson Combat Grip module. I went with the compact size and use 15 rnd mags for a flush fit. Really nice! definitely an easy 3 season EDC.
Posts: 546 | Location: Fort Couch (VA) | Registered: December 16, 2012
Originally posted by tjcj: Manual doesn't tell you that you have to pull the trigger to remove the slide on models w safety.
What? You don’t have to pull the trigger. That wouldn’t even work, because you have to pull the slide back to rotate the takedown lever, which resets the striker anyway. Lock the slide back, rotate the takedown lever, and then release the slide lock and ride the slide forward off the frame. Maybe I’m misunderstanding what you’re saying.
Posts: 133 | Location: Virginia | Registered: June 17, 2003
Trigger pull is not needed to disassemble the 320 in any version. If you pull the trigger prior to pulling/locking the slide back, it does not matter, as pulling the slide back to access takedown lever simply resets the trigger —- you cannot pull the trigger/fire the gun with the slide back, as it is disconnected.
Take down lever is retracting take down lever bar, In the earlier pic you can see the bar tab outside of the hole in the slide catch body and the base of the bar is protruding into the mag well. Bar is not releasing sear. Ideas? Knowing me I'm probably going to take it apart. Fixing misassembled or replacing part preferable to returning to sig.
Posts: 112 | Location: Deep south | Registered: August 31, 2008
Ditto most comments above. 100%: M-17/M-18: Trigger does not have to be pulled to remove slide.
Just now, I removed my slide w/o pulling trigger. In addition to manual safety, this aspect was part of my buying decision making. I want to say this may have also been part of the Military procurement spec... Neither M9 nor M17 require trigger pull. (FWIW: S.A. XDS and Walther P99 do)
Posts: 546 | Location: Fort Couch (VA) | Registered: December 16, 2012
Sorry to hijack this thread, but here we are. pic of sear protruding w. takedown lever in disassembly position. IMG_0846 by Tom C, on Flickr
Pic of take down lever bar in forward position IMG_0841 by Tom C, on Flickr pic of bar in rearmost position IMG_0843 by Tom C, on Flickr
Only way to remove slide is to pull trigger as after slide moves forward and striker engages sear. Trigger is not disconnected. Is rearward most position of takedown bar correct? In earlier pic tyhe striker safety disconnect is forward and down. Is this correct position. pressing rearward does retract sear. I'm not going to disassemble further but I'm guessing the pin on the takedown bar isn't performing correctly. All ideas welcome. Looks like its going off to sig.
Posts: 112 | Location: Deep south | Registered: August 31, 2008