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Hello all, I’m new to suppressors and have a question. I just purchased an sig spear 300 blackout pistol and need suppressor advice. Will only be used on this pistol and running subs. The salesman suggested staying with an sig suppressor but the overall choices are many. The suppressor will only be taken off for cleaning. The pistol will be used for home defense and range use. The salesman all said to consider the mounting options. Thanks for any advice.
 
Posts: 5 | Registered: October 20, 2024Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Kave, There are a lot of really nice options out there. I would think if you want it for home defense but to also take it to the range, you probably want a balance of length to weight. The SilencerCo Scythe is crazy light (7.3 oz) and 6" long. MSRP is $1174 but I would think you could get it closer to $950 if it's in stock.

I've heard one on a .308 but not a .300 blk.


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Posts: 1231 | Location: Va | Registered: July 18, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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How long is the barrel on your Spear?




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Posts: 6175 | Location: Upstate SC | Registered: April 06, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Barrel is 9 inch
 
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The reason I ask is that some suppressors have a minimum barrel length requirement for some calibers.

I'd consider either the Dead Air Nomad Ti XC or Nomad LTi XC. I have one of each in NFA jail, so I haven't used them yet, but I do have several Dead Air silencers and really like them, particularly with their Xeno mounting system.

Their Wolfman is also rated for 300BO, but also 9mm. It's also slightly heavier.




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Posts: 6175 | Location: Upstate SC | Registered: April 06, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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It would be impossible to give much useful advise to the question posed. The number of suppressors that can shoot .300BO subs from a 9" barrel is huge. So we need a bit more. what's important to you. Price, weight, size, construction, sound reduction, mounting options, durability, etc. etc. etc. and etc. So maybe outline what you might care about and you might get some advise that is tuned to your situation. Otherwise ANY .30 cal suppressor will do what you outline. Have a lottery.


“So in war, the way is to avoid what is strong, and strike at what is weak.”
 
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Order of importance
#1 sound reduction
#2 want to keep length short for home defense
#3 weight
#4 mount- will be on pistol full time
#5 durability/ ease of cleaning
#6 cost, availability- willing to wait if on back order
 
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Is this what you got?

https://www.sigsauer.com/mcx-s...00-blk-9-pistol.html

If it is, the first thing you’ll have to consider is getting that sig flash hider off the end. It’s a mount that only works with Sig suppressors and they usually rocksett them on. Also, the end of the barrel is probably tapered, so you’ll need a taper spacer to square off the end of the barrel for most typical muzzle devices.
 
Posts: 3439 | Location: South FL | Registered: February 09, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Good point. My FFL had to send it back to SIG to get the flash hider off. But they only charged me $40 to do that and mount a Xeno mount on it.
quote:
Originally posted by Dwill104:
Is this what you got?

https://www.sigsauer.com/mcx-s...00-blk-9-pistol.html

If it is, the first thing you’ll have to consider is getting that sig flash hider off the end. It’s a mount that only works with Sig suppressors and they usually rocksett them on. Also, the end of the barrel is probably tapered, so you’ll need a taper spacer to square off the end of the barrel for most typical muzzle devices.




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Posts: 6175 | Location: Upstate SC | Registered: April 06, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Dwill104:
If it is, the first thing you’ll have to consider is getting that sig flash hider off the end.

And if it’s like the flash hider that was on a friend’s SPEAR, we found it impossible to accomplish ourselves. A SIG rep told me (as mentioned) that it was secured with Rocksett, but the usual advice about prolonged soaking and even boiling in water didn’t work. He ended up getting SIG to send him a shipping label for the upper. The turnaround was quick and didn’t cost him anything other than the inconvenience of the process.




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Posts: 47836 | Location: 10,150 Feet Above Sea Level in Colorado | Registered: April 04, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Thanks for all the advice. Its sounds like I could just by an sig suppressor. If I do, does it just mount over the sig installed flash hider? Or is the better option to send the pistol to sig for removal and buy a non sig suppressor. I never realized how many choices there are.
 
Posts: 5 | Registered: October 20, 2024Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Pretty sure you want to get a Sig silencer that comes with the Clutch LOK.


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Posts: 1231 | Location: Va | Registered: July 18, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I read pretty good things about Sig suppressors, but if it were me and I was starting fresh, I’d go with a HUB compatible can, Rearden Atlas and brake. Those are on the Plan B mount interface, which is taper-mounted so it’s very secure and repeatable without the weight of Xeno mounts, and the threads are behind the taper, so they stay clean. I’d get a can rated for whatever other rifles I owned, and then I would have a .30 cal can that could go on them with just the need of a muzzle device. That would be the most current hot shit setup.

This might necessitate sending the rifle to Sig to get their brake off, but you’d have a lot more flexibility in the long run. You might think you’re going to only suppress the one gun, but once you do, you’re almost certainly going to re-think that notion.


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Posts: 17805 | Location: Sonoran Desert | Registered: February 10, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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The SIG factory flash hider doesn't have the threads to be able to mount a direct-thread suppressor, so you'd still have to remove (or have removed) the factory flash hider.

The SIG Clutch-Lok is just another mounting system, and you will still have to remove the factory flash hider in order to install it. SIG's current suppressors use either that or direct thread.

As stated earlier, any 30 cal suppressor will do. There are some great sites like Pew Science (which has a free tier and a pay tier) which does ratings on suppressors, but many of the new suppressors aren't covered. YouTube has lots of stuff, but you have a lot of guys there who are just shilling for the company and not a lot of empirical data.

I just went through this process over the past year, so I know what you're going through. If you have a decent FFL/SOT near you that sells suppressors, I would go in and see what they have. Many will have staff that will guide you through the process, or you can go to someplace like Silencer Central (web site) who will do the same.

The process is basically 1) choose your suppressor, 2) work with a dealer or Silencer Central to fill out and submit your paperwork, 3) wait for approval from the ATF, who will then send you a tax stamp (mine came via e-mail so that I printed out multiple copies, one to go in my Firearms Trust notebook and one to keep with the suppressor). At this point, you can pick up your suppressor from your dealer, or Silencer Central will send it to you. Then, and only then, can you mount it to your firearm.

Also, you will need to use subsonic ammo to get the quietest/most benefit from owning a suppressor. Most any ammo slower than 1080-1100 feet per second (fps) will be subsonic. You can use supersonic ammo with a suppressor, but it will be louder than subsonic ammo (but not as loud as without a suppressor).

SIG suppressors are just fine, but they are also pricey.

quote:
Originally posted by kave:
Thanks for all the advice. Its sounds like I could just by an sig suppressor. If I do, does it just mount over the sig installed flash hider? Or is the better option to send the pistol to sig for removal and buy a non sig suppressor. I never realized how many choices there are.




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Posts: 6175 | Location: Upstate SC | Registered: April 06, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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A couple of things. First you should take a look at PEW and the TB testing (https://thunderbeastarms.com/sound/summit2024/) to give you some idea of the likely cans that meet your 1-3 criteria. In the TB test I mostly look at SE numbers but in a house it probably matters not.
Since #5 says on the gun all the time nothing is going to beat direct thread. I hate that but in terms of simplicity and weight its the way to go. Unlike P220 I like xeno because of the thread orientations, but really get any common taper mount and be happy if you want an actual mounting system.
Since based on my personal experience and watching numerous posts by new people about what's important get a hub suppressor if you can. Changing your priorities becomes much easier. if weight is important you will have to go ti.
These are rifle suppressors so mostly they all clean the same. The ventum is a bit odd and you can disassemble it if that matters.
I don't have that sig so I can't give you any personal advise on what works well... But in .30 cal I have like a dozen different choices and they would all be fine so this is not like a major life and death decision. Pick something you like or think you like and go shoot.


“So in war, the way is to avoid what is strong, and strike at what is weak.”
 
Posts: 11219 | Registered: October 14, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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When others mention a Hub mount, that is a standard method of attaching cans to firearms. Several manufacturers make Hub-compatible mounts, so if you go with a suppressor that is Hub-compatible, you have options from several companies to go with their mounting hardware. I did this with an Aero Precision Lahar suppressor - it is Hub-compatible, and I'm using a Dead Air Xeno mount to mount it to one of my firearms.

There are competing mounting options, like SIG's Clutch-Lok.

Any mounting system other than direct thread will add some weight to the overall setup, but we're talking ounces.




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Posts: 6175 | Location: Upstate SC | Registered: April 06, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by AUTiger89:
Any mounting system other than direct thread will add some weight to the overall setup, but we're talking ounces.


Yes, but those ounces out at the end of even a short barreled rifle add up and have an outsized effect on the balance. 9oz vs 16oz doesn't sound like a lot, but my two rifle cans so far have an extremely different feel to them.

Fwiw, I was getting Xeno and Keymo mixed up. Xeno is basically Dead Air's version of the Plan B mount interface and to my mind, far preferably to Keymo. That said, for a HUB compatible can, I'd still recommend a Plan B over Xeno. You can get their titanium mount for cheaper than a Xeno and come in around half the length, half the weight and basically have a jailbroken can you can run on any Plan B muzzle device, of which there are many manufacturers such as Rearden, Liberty Precision Machine, Primary Weapons Systems, and Dilligent Defense, to name a few off a list I was looking at. There are some that Xeno compatible, but many more who do Plan B. What does Xeno do that Plan B does not? Genuinely asking. So far, it looks like the major difference is it threads in the opposite direction.


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Posts: 17805 | Location: Sonoran Desert | Registered: February 10, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I'm not an expert on these mounts and I'm sure that there are reviews/discussions/evaluations. And of course I fully expect a full assessment by P220Smudge once he gets some range time on the options. But those who know me from this forum know I normally run surefire, 3 lug and xeno so no big base of experience on others. But occasionally I simply have no choice but to run direct thread and when the suppressor disassembles itself before you get it off the muzzle device it REALLY REALLY sucks since lots of suppressor mfg don't give you decent things to use a wrench (please fix this please). Plan B doesn't fix that but Xeno does and on hub mount cans there is a part to unthread, and in my mind its a really big deal. Is it a big deal to you I can't say, but its my reason to select it.


“So in war, the way is to avoid what is strong, and strike at what is weak.”
 
Posts: 11219 | Registered: October 14, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Wrench flats:

https://www.reardenmfg.com/pro.../?orderby=popularity

https://www.reardenmfg.com/pro...read-adapters/atlas/

Razz

Unless I misunderstand you.

Now Plan B anything as it comes from Q? Yeah, you're sending your can and Cherry Bomb back to Q to have them get them apart. That's still a massive failure, but other companies took the format and ran with it, and the big improvement with guys like Rearden and others was putting wrench flats on everything.


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Posts: 17805 | Location: Sonoran Desert | Registered: February 10, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Kave, do you have a picture of your flash hider? That may alleviate some guess work on our part. Maybe it is a clutch lok mount already?


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