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AAC Tirant 45m question? Login/Join 
The Quiet Man
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Anyone here familiar with the Tirant 45M? I just picked mine up, and according to the instructions I should have 2 light grey front baffles. All of my baffles are identical except for the steel blast baffle closest to the barrel. Did they change something and not update the manual? Logically it seems like as long as that blast baffle is first and the ports all align correctly it should be fine, but I might have had an oops taking the can apart the first time and am restacking them with instructions that don't match the parts...

I've shot them an email, but I wouldn't be surprised at all if the brain trust here has the answer faster.
 
Posts: 2643 | Registered: November 13, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Which AAC generation Ti Rant do you have?
AAC = Advanced Armament Company, gen 1 or
AAC= Advanced Armament Corporation, gen 2.

Gen 1 has the steel blast baffle--then the remainder of the baffles stack into tabs in the main tube, last baffle does not have notch on front. Short tube has 3 baffles-tan color, middle baffle has tabs and notches. Front baffle has notch in rear, back baffle has tab in front.
As long as the short tube has the 3 described baffles--you should be good to go.
 
Posts: 2366 | Location: Southeast CT | Registered: January 18, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
The Quiet Man
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This is the current version, but it looks like the manual still reflects the old color coded stack. I’ve got one steel baffle and all the remaining baffles are all aluminum of the exact same design. Looking at the manual for the Tirant 9HD, this looks like how that can is set up. All the baffles have tabs that clip together, so I’m fairly confident it’s fine, but the manual confused me.
 
Posts: 2643 | Registered: November 13, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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https://advanced-armament.com/...loads/TI-Rant-45.pdf
Page 13--front baffles can be identified by their absence of notches on the cone--figure 25.
Front tube
Page 14--the first baffle to be placed is the transition baffle-it has an angled rear face and lack of tabs--see fig 32. The next baffle to be placed has rear tabs and notches in the cone. The second front baffle (fig 25) is placed--output ports are all aligned. Install the front cap to complete reassembly of the front tube.

You should have 1 steel ported blast baffle, 1 transition baffle, 2 front baffles and the remaining baffles should be all the same.
 
Posts: 2366 | Location: Southeast CT | Registered: January 18, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Port alignment from SilencerCo.
https://www.youtube.com › watch?v=Xvof3dk0RP0
By aligning all the ports--it creates longer airflow within each baffle chamber, thus decreasing perceived sound.
That's the theory behind aligning all the gas ports in each baffle within the tube.
 
Posts: 2366 | Location: Southeast CT | Registered: January 18, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
The Quiet Man
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Thanks. I've got the alignment right at least, but I only have 2 types of baffles. One steel blast baffle and the rest are identical, down to the notches and the tabs. It seems to assemble correctly. Maybe they just went to one baffle type for cost cutting reasons? I shot the company an email just because I'm paranoid enough to wonder if there was an oops in putting my can together.
 
Posts: 2643 | Registered: November 13, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
The Quiet Man
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Got a reply back from AAC. The manual is slightly out of date. What now comes in the can is one blast baffle and 4 aluminum baffles in the main tube and 3 aluminum baffles in the extension. The extension baffles have very slightly larger skirts, which is only obvious when I compare them side by side or try to mate them up with the baffles from the main tube. Personally I’d still prefer color coding, but I totally get why they did this.

Just got back from putting the first hundred rounds through the can and I’m very, very impressed. No affect on reliability, no meaningful affect on POI or accuracy (MAYBE an inch up at 15, but that could just as easily just be my hold) and despite its length it’s nowhere near as unwieldy as I would expect. She gets hot fast though. Glad Silencershop sent me the tactical oven-mitt as a free gift.

As far as suppression goes with 230gr ball it sounds like a nail gun. Most of that is action noise. Back pressure is fairly high judging from the amount of residue left in the gun and on my trigger finger. Seems my HK45 likes to vent down through the trigger opening.

Overall I couldn’t be happier.
 
Posts: 2643 | Registered: November 13, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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This is just an educational question. I am stunned that a suppressor that is rated like this one has Al baffles at least in the main tube. I looked at the mfg. site and they list three materials Ti, SS, and Al. and say that the expansion section baffles are Al. I assume the blast baffle(s) are ss and the tube is Ti(?) and per your note all the baffles are Al?


“So in war, the way is to avoid what is strong, and strike at what is weak.”
 
Posts: 11149 | Registered: October 14, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Ti-Rant==Tube is Titanium
Stainless Steel are pistons and blast baffle
Remainder of baffles are aluminum.

Ti Rant was an early adapter of using Titanium.
Another suppressor that is same design is the CSG Mod 9. Aluminum tube, stainless blast baffle and remainder are aluminum Orion baffles. Great reputation in sound suppression.
 
Posts: 2366 | Location: Southeast CT | Registered: January 18, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
The Quiet Man
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It's a big can, but it's light due to the titanium and aluminum. It's much more effective than I expected as well. The trade off is the aluminum baffles require a little TLC when it comes to cleaning. I intend to address that by cleaning it before it gets bad.
 
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https://web.archive.org/web/20...lencer-cleaning.html

copaup--the pdf will help. It's intended for stainless steel baffles but does work on aluminum.
 
Posts: 2366 | Location: Southeast CT | Registered: January 18, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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