This is the fun experience when you can’t remove your suppressors because it’s been fused to the mount for heavy use. Specifically, I’m using a gemtech g5 and a gemtech shield.

If anyone has a solution to this issue. Or I have been doing it wrong. School me please.

heat, lots of heat

Best to remove after a couple of mag dumps. Need fire log gloves to remove the suppressor. Carbon and copper buildup on the QD mount “welding” the suppressor in place.
I haven’t had much success with the usual copper solvents-ammonia base. I’ve had much better success with Bore Tech’s copper cleaner. No smell or harsh chemicals. I also use Bore Tech bore cleaner- no smell or fumes. I don’t think it’s carbon.....it’s copper that’s built up.

quote:

Originally posted by SIGfourme:
Best to remove after a couple of mag dumps. Need fire log gloves to remove the suppressor. Carbon and copper buildup on the QD mount “welding” the suppressor in place.
I haven’t had much success with the usual copper solvents-ammonia base. I’ve had much better success with Bore Tech’s copper cleaner. No smell or harsh chemicals. I also use Bore Tech bore cleaner- no smell or fumes. I don’t think it’s carbon.....it’s copper that’s built up.

I usually use slip 2000. Is there something we could apply before hand? I am not talking mag dumps, just normal sustained shooting.

I've had that experience with my Gemtech Shield, HVT-QD and my Quicksand. I use Kroil penetrating oil..."It Creeps" is their motto with the gun and can unit upside down. Apply liberally and at least three times and let sit overnight. Making sure gun is unloaded or taken apart either beat end of suppressor with a plastic or wooden mallet or hold the barrel/suppressor unit upside down and bang the supressor onto a block of wood. This should break the supressor free from the Bi-lug adapter. You may now need to use two rubber strap wrenches to turn the suppressor on the now compacted assembly. It will come off, they always do.
Clean everything thoroughly, coat mating surfaces with the Nickle type Anti-seize found at automotive stores... High temp copper will work also but the Nickle is the best and most heat resistant.
After your daily shooting sessions with Seal Team 6... remove, clean and lubricate the bi-lug and the mating surface of the suppressor so it doesn't happen again.
George

I use anti-seize on both my ASR and KeyMo contact points, if some gets on the threads it won't hurt anything. I doubt the KeyMo needs it but I don't mind putting a little on it.