Recent further thought on QD mount interfaces, prompted by both a recent YT video shared in another discussion and my recent Surefire lock-on and shoot-off, has me wondering who in our little group has had trouble removing a QD silencer.

If you have had trouble, please describe the situation and how you resolved it.

I'll start by sharing the same event I mentioned in the Surefire silencer thread. I had my SOCOM762mini "carbon lock" onto the flash hider attached to a Sig553R(7.62x39). I performed the Surefire SOCOM shoot-off technique, and it was effective. The obvious downside being the necessity to fire the weapon.

I have also experienced trouble with A2-type attachments in both Gemtech Halo and Griffin M4SD silencers. These require a good bit of muscle to twist them back and forth, to scrape past the carbon deposits, if the fit between the device and the "pocket" is snug. The Griffin could also theoretically be shot off though.

I have also experienced a tough time removing a warm Otter Creek OCM5, which utilizes a thread/taper mount. The same can be said of a OSS HXQD556. It's worth mentioning that these difficulties were due to heat, not carbon. The OCM5 was overcome by holding the rifle between my legs, allowing both hands to grip the silencer.

What have the rest of y'all experienced?

Two quick questions at least on the surefire side (no experience on A2 although I think I might try the B&T A2 Hub)
do you lubricate the mounting surface?
do you use the ACST to clean it?

I had a problem with YHM QD. Shooting quite a bit of 223--it developed carbon/copper buildup over the leading edge of the flash hider. I was able to take the suppressor off while hot. A lot of scrubbing with Carbon killer and Copper removal took the build up off.
It wasn't just carbon.
Yankee Hill Machine Phantom--precursor to the Turbo.

quote:

do you lubricate the mounting surface?
do you use the ACST to clean it?

I have used high temperature anti-seize on my A2 stuff before; I need to do that with the Surefire too.

I use a wire wheel to clean the SF devices; though perhaps not as often as I should. What is ACST? (A brief google yielded nothing certain)

Only thing close I've experienced is more thermal lock I'd guess. My form 1 suppressor is all titanium. Using a Griffin taper mount on my rifles. The steel expands as it heats up. Really locks the can on. I've got to wait around 10-15 minutes after shooting it. It'll then cool down enough to take off the mount.

Right after a few mags it's on so tight it feels like it's permanently welded on. 15 minutes later it can be twist off with x2 fingers super easy.

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What is ACST?

The official surefire tool to clean the mount.
Adapter carbon scraping tool.
I don't have many problems on the surefire mount but I do use a high temp antisieze (which I use on anything and everything that needs to move on suppressors like threads or mounts). And I rarely run massive round counts before I remove it. But it surely is a real issue as the shoot it off technique is a well known thing. though surefire now advises to pick another method.

The ACST looks like a good piece of kit. Considering the cost, combined with the fact a Surefire can isn't my current go-to, I am not jumping on one right now. I am glad to know about it though; thanks for the heads-up.

A friend of mine had his Q Cherry Bomb get stuck in his Trash Panda when he removed it from his rifle. While I don’t know the specifics, it involved him having to contact the manufacturer to get it out.

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Originally posted by flesheatingvirus:
A friend of mine had his Q Cherry Bomb get stuck in his Trash Panda when he removed it from his rifle. While I don’t know the specifics, it involved him having to contact the manufacturer to get it out.

Had that happen once on mine. Kinda my fault where I don't think I cleaned the threads good enough on a rifle build. But I cleaned them super good. Applied the rockset and just screwed the can & mount back on. Left it laying there for a few days. Can popped right off leaving the mount where it still is to this day probably x5 years later.

AFAIK that is the recommended procedure for this problem. Let the whole setup cool. Reattach the gun side mount more effectively this time and then remove. Except for surefire where I am gunning to match KSGM and shoot the sucker off every other mfg. I use says the above.

I've definitely experienced thermal lock like myrottiety, and I'm using the same taper mount system. Get the can hot enough, and it's not going to budge. I did discover I was over-tightening my cans after my first good range session. I nearly needed a strap wrench. My calibration on "hand tight" is a little different than most people's, I guess. I make sure to just get the can mostly snug now. It's not like it's going to unscrew itself with my setup anyway.

quote:

Originally posted by flesheatingvirus:
A friend of mine had his Q Cherry Bomb get stuck in his Trash Panda when he removed it from his rifle. While I don’t know the specifics, it involved him having to contact the manufacturer to get it out.

On that note, that's why Rearden has wrench flats on the base of their Plan B muzzle devices. Griffin's Plan A has a slot in the back of them and sell a screwdriver type thing you're supposed to clamp in a vice and strap-wrench around the can to get it loose, but I like Rearden's approach better. There were some industry guys laughing about Q's lack of provision to remove stuck muzzle devices on Reddit about a month ago. Sometimes the other method outlined just doesn't work, and the can and muzzle device have to go back to Q. Bad engineering.