After sitting days in Hoppes and time in the UC, the front cap remains stuck on. And the Sig tool for its removal gets no purchase on the cap. Suggestions?
Most of the time I loosen one end 1/4 of a turn, then loosen the other. I repeat till one can turn freely. Then i take it all apart.
Is the front cap damaged?
Now if the front cap is sealed on, rocksett, loctite. you have a couple of ways you can go about it.
If rocksett, soak in water for 2 days, then try to undo the front cap.
Loctite, ad some heat. Get one of the butane torches for cooking. evenly at heat around the rim while the can is secure in a vise. VOX makes a can clamp. Once the end cap is heated, and the rear cap is off. Use your tool to loosen the front cap. It is slow constant pressure. Rapid movements won't break it. SLOWLY apply tension to the tool hold it, then inclease ever so slowly, hold, increase, hold. till you break it free.
Posts: 6633 | Location: Virginia | Registered: December 23, 2010
I never thought of Hoppe’s as a penetrating solvent. If the other suggested methods don’t work, I would try immersion soaking in Kroil. (I don’t, BTW, have any idea what “UC” refers to.)
I can tell at sight a Chassepot rifle from a javelin.
Posts: 49844 | Location: 10,160 Feet Above Sea Level in Commirado | Registered: April 04, 2002
Originally posted by Challer: Meant Ultrasonic. Phone spell checker. I believe I’m going to have to drill two holes for a pin spammer and just get a new cap.
Before you to that use heat.
Posts: 6633 | Location: Virginia | Registered: December 23, 2010
Front cap should not have thread locker on it. Penetrating oil would be best to soak front end cap--Kroil. Make sure you are going in the right direction to loosen. A strap wrench might get some purchase on the front cap. When all else fails--> back to Sig Learned that lesson early on with Rimfire cans. Anti seize is your friend. https://www.sigsauer.com/wp-co...1924-01-REV00_LR.pdf
Posts: 2502 | Location: CT River Valley | Registered: January 18, 2009
After penetrating oil, sea foam, came apart with some effort. Baffles were loose and free. I still feel the Sig front cap tool is a POS but for now I'm good. I use nickel anti seize on all my cans (this one was new and had factory lube). I shouldn't have problems again.