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| Member |
After sitting days in Hoppes and time in the UC, the front cap remains stuck on. And the Sig tool for its removal gets no purchase on the cap. Suggestions? | ||
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| Member |
Have you backed the rear off? Most of the time I loosen one end 1/4 of a turn, then loosen the other. I repeat till one can turn freely. Then i take it all apart. Is the front cap damaged? Now if the front cap is sealed on, rocksett, loctite. you have a couple of ways you can go about it. If rocksett, soak in water for 2 days, then try to undo the front cap. Loctite, ad some heat. Get one of the butane torches for cooking. evenly at heat around the rim while the can is secure in a vise. VOX makes a can clamp. Once the end cap is heated, and the rear cap is off. Use your tool to loosen the front cap. It is slow constant pressure. Rapid movements won't break it. SLOWLY apply tension to the tool hold it, then inclease ever so slowly, hold, increase, hold. till you break it free. | |||
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Member |
I don't have any advice here. But reminds me of when a buddy of mine monkey fisted my 30 cal taper mount can on. I had to put the suppressor in a vice and turn the rifle to get it out.  Train how you intend to Fight Remember - Training is not sparring. Sparring is not fighting. Fighting is not combat. | |||
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| Freethinker |
I never thought of Hoppe’s as a penetrating solvent. If the other suggested methods don’t work, I would try immersion soaking in Kroil. (I don’t, BTW, have any idea what “UC” refers to.) “Most men … can seldom accept the simplest and most obvious truth if it … would oblige them to admit the falsity of conclusions … which they have woven, thread by thread, into the fabrics of their lives.” — Leo Tolstoy | |||
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| Member |
Meant Ultrasonic. Phone spell checker. I believe I’m going to have to drill two holes for a pin spammer and just get a new cap. | |||
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| Member |
Before you to that use heat. | |||
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Member |
Front cap should not have thread locker on it. Penetrating oil would be best to soak front end cap--Kroil. Make sure you are going in the right direction to loosen. A strap wrench might get some purchase on the front cap. When all else fails--> back to Sig Learned that lesson early on with Rimfire cans. Anti seize is your friend. https://www.sigsauer.com/wp-co...1924-01-REV00_LR.pdf | |||
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| Member |
stick it in the freezer for an hour or so. (maybe a ziplock baggie if wife objects). | |||
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| Member |
After penetrating oil, sea foam, came apart with some effort. Baffles were loose and free. I still feel the Sig front cap tool is a POS but for now I'm good. I use nickel anti seize on all my cans (this one was new and had factory lube). I shouldn't have problems again. | |||
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| You're going to feel a little pressure... |
Resurrecting this thread because I had a stuck muzzle cal and the information about Kroil saved my butt. It works! Yay, search function! Bruce "The designer of the gun had clearly not been instructed to beat about the bush. 'Make it evil,' he'd been told. 'Make it totally clear that this gun has a right end and a wrong end. Make it totally clear to anyone standing at the wrong end that things are going badly for them. If that means sticking all sort of spikes and prongs and blackened bits all over it then so be it. This is not a gun for hanging over the fireplace or sticking in the umbrella stand, it is a gun for going out and making people miserable with." -Douglas Adams “It is just as difficult and dangerous to try to free a people that wants to remain servile as it is to try to enslave a people that wants to remain free." -Niccolo Machiavelli The trouble with fighting for human freedom is that one spends most of one's time defending scoundrels. For it is against scoundrels that oppressive laws are first aimed, and oppression must be stopped at the beginning if it is to be stopped at all. -Mencken | |||
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