I wanted to put a little copper based anti-seize on my Omega muzzle brake adapter to help in removing to switch between host's. Anybody used this before?
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Posts: 1353 | Location: Idaho | Registered: July 07, 2010
Waiting on my first SiCo can, currently in jail, what part of the MB are you guys applying anti seize to? I’ll be using ASR and AAC 51t mounts, so the threads or the teeth? My experience has been with AAC cans and 51t mounts and I’ve never bothered/needed to do anything but periodically clean the mounts, can removal hasn’t been an issue.
Also I assume aluminum based anti seize is sufficient. Looking at Permatex products the Al is rated to 1,600, Cu to 1,800 and Ni is 2,400 degrees.
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Posts: 2200 | Location: VA | Registered: June 12, 2004
Shooting 223 suppressed I have noticed 1) Gas coming from the charging handle-better with Gemtech bolt, just purchased Bootleg bolt carrier with BF sale. 2) Significant lead and COPPER build up on the QD flash hider. I shoot a lot- I need log gloves to remove a very hot suppressor. The flash hider was coated with lead and copper deposits --creating a "weld". A lot of elbow grease, Hoppes, Butch'e Bore shine and ammonia removed the layers of build up. Would antiseize have helped? IDK
One of the 02/07 SOTs I've worked with. They manufactured cans with Griffin tapers system. Always recommended a dab of fireclean on the shoulder of the taper.
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Posts: 8958 | Location: Woodstock, GA | Registered: August 04, 2005
Originally posted by myrottiety: One of the 02/07 SOTs I've worked with. They manufactured cans with Griffin tapers system. Always recommended a dab of fireclean on the shoulder of the taper.
crisco would be cheaper
Posts: 6633 | Location: Virginia | Registered: December 23, 2010
Following this. I had an ASR mount get stuck and I ended up having the flash hider come off with it. Silencerco did end up sending me a new adapter though.
Posts: 791 | Location: PA | Registered: June 15, 2002
How many rounds does it take to get a suppressor stuck on a mount? I haven’t had it happen yet, but it doesn’t sound fun. Any words of advice on how many rounds before I should consider anti seize?
Crosco IS cheaper than anti-seize. If I'm mounting a 600 dollar can on a 1000 dollar gun and paying 200 for the tax stamp, I ca use Crisco and save.....3 dollars.
Posts: 17294 | Location: Lexington, KY | Registered: October 15, 2006
Originally posted by Fredward: Crisco IS cheaper than anti-seize. If I'm mounting a 600 dollar can on a 1000 dollar gun and paying 200 for the tax stamp, I can use Crisco and save.....3 dollars.
Posts: 17294 | Location: Lexington, KY | Registered: October 15, 2006
Nickel anti-seize will work better than any grease and doesn't corrode like the copper version can. Since using on my QD Surefire and Sigs, never had a problem. Without, they can seem to weld on. The silicon greases can work but have limits. I use the nickel on the threads of the suppressors as well and since, can go 100s of rounds and take down/cleaning is much easier.
Originally posted by wdsman1: Following this. I had an ASR mount get stuck and I ended up having the flash hider come off with it. Silencerco did end up sending me a new adapter though.
Same here. I will definitely be looking for some of this nickel anti-seize stuff!
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Posts: 16253 | Location: Harrison, AR | Registered: February 05, 2004
I use anti-seize on everything. I've seen several shotgun chokes "carbon welded" onto expensive shotguns. When metal meets metal and gets hot, problems can occur. Throw in the residue left by ammo.....cheap insurance.
Also, my keyboard is fixed.
Posts: 17294 | Location: Lexington, KY | Registered: October 15, 2006
