I have a Titanium Gemtech Trek that I like very much. In cleaning the weapon it's currently attached to, I noticed an inconsistency in the circumference of the inside edge of the end cap. It gave me pause. It looks similar to a "clipped" baffle; I don't think that design aspect is typically applied to end caps though. In examining the preceding baffle, it appears to have a small inconsistency as well, in a location that is consistent with the end cap defect. It is a direct thread can, and has only ever been on two guns (10" AR and 11.5" AR); both setups had no alignment issues and the silencer never came loose on either. The only ammo ever fired through it has been factory 55gr 5.56mm FMJ ammo from PMC, Winchester, and Hornady. I have not shot the gun on paper, since noticing the defect, to see if it has an effect on zero. Anyway, it's friggen weird. I don't have access to another identical can to compare it to, but my other Gemtechs don't have any inconsistencies in circumference, in that location. I can't say that I recall ever inspecting this silencer in a way that would guarantee this "flaw" hasn't existed all along; I do believe it isn't right, regardless. Anyone on the forum have a pre-S&W Trek silencer?

2 pre S&W direct tread Treks. No issues. Heavy cans by todays standards but indestructible. I will double check tonight. Police trades from Mark at Summit Gun Broker ages ago.

I'd really appreciate it if you could look at the inside edge of your end caps on those Treks, and see if they are an uninterrupted circle.

Thank you very much for sending those pictures, SIGfourme. It appears I did indeed have a strike. Goes to show that weird stuff can happen; perfect alignment and factory ammo isn't any guarantee. At this point, my best guess is an ammunition anomaly or a piece of debris somehow made it's way into the can, causing a deviation in bullet flight. It definitely irks me that this happened to this silencer, as it's one of my favorites, and isn't easily replaceable. I'll continue to use it, and hope it doesn't happen again.

More pics sent to you of what a baffle strike looks like.

I appreciate the communication and pics, SIGfourme. I am familiar with "clipping", and mentioned it in the OP; I sought pics of other Treks for the purpose of proving/disproving the clipping theory. Unless this is a design feature only applied to the titanium version of the can, which seems unlikely, I think clipping can be ruled out. Also, clipping I am familiar with is applied to baffles, not endcaps. I have seen plenty of pictures of baffle strikes, and have seen endcap strikes in person. I agree that my silencer's potential damage is atypical, and I still suspect it is just that: damage. As I said before, I have neither an image of my can previously, nor a photographic memory, but I doubt the appearance of that endcap would have struck me as odd during this cleaning, if it had been that way since I had owned the can.

Can you guys post some of these photos? I'm waiting on a Dead Air Nomad Ti can, but I'm still curious.

I believe I have a very slight bit of clipping in my 9mm can, but I'd like to see other examples.

Google will give you all the images of examples you could ever want; search "silencer baffle clipping". It's a design feature applied to the overwhelming majority of cans, as far as I know. I have yet to establish an account with an online image host.

Here is my 22 Mite.
Can was on my 10/22. I noticed 2 flyers and found this.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/194020020@N07/?

^^^Any chance that damage was due to lead buildup in the can that got in the path of the projectile?

No. There is minimal lead and carbon in the monocore. I have leaded up the 1st baffle chamber with significant lead/carbon with no baffle strikes.
The suppressor got warm, threads loosened and 2 flyers.
Lesson learned. Now I routinely check suppressor tightness. Welders glove is part of my range bag.

Yankee Hill did a check the barrel threads and suppressor threads. Identified as user error--not manufacture. Now I have a "custom" YHM Stinger--it's 1" shorter in length due to bulge at the endcap. Monocore was replaced with K baffles--tube now is 1" shorter.

quote:

Originally posted by SIGfourme:
Welders glove is part of my range bag.

In that same vein, a silicone hot pad of the sort used in kitchens also works well and is less expensive and takes up less room.
(Not that there's anything wrong with the glove, just suggesting another readily-available option. )

A warning about suppressors getting loose is a good one. When I started hitting 8-10 feet from where I was aiming at 600 yards, that was a clue even for me that something was wrong. No significant damage to the can I could see, but keep those things tight.

Clipping a baffle is nomenclature used to describe a cut in a K baffle to enhance air turbulence.

Baffle strike is what occurs when the barrel bore and suppressor are not in correct alignment.

Direct thread suppressors can loosen. Periodic checking is recommended. Typically, I apply antiseize to the threads to facilitate removal. Counterproductive but I have had cans become stuck after shooting.

I use a strap wrench to tighten my direct-thread cans, if they lack wrench flats. I have had one loosen in the past, but noticed because of periodic checking. Since then, I have used some nylon thread tape on the muzzle; that has worked well for me.

quote:

Baffle strike is what occurs when the barrel bore and suppressor are not in correct alignment.

Or, in the case of my OP, it occurs due to some other influence. I have decided to take the plunge on a SF RC2 silencer; I have wanted one for a while, and this recent event served to highlight the importance of one of the SF design aspects.

I just remembered a malfunction on the day of shooting this strike occurred, that could have caused it.

In addressing the malfunction, I succeeded in inducing a double feed, which is where the revelation potentially lies. I had totally forgotten about that incident, which could have damaged a projectile, causing excessive yaw, leading to the strike. Seems unlikely, but certainly possible.

I have since learned more about titanium silencers. I undoubtedly pushed this particular can far beyond the typical max recommended operating temperature. I compromised the integrity of the material, and some of it was damaged as a result.

I consider an IR thermometer absolutely required when using a Ti suppressor in heavy use situations.