I don't see how that rescues keymo issues that are normally the ones people complain about.

I've been using the Griffin taper mount for a few years on my Form 1 can. So far so good.

As others have said. Give it a light hand snug. Send a few rounds and there's no way the taper mount if walking off.

DO NOT monkey fist a taper mount can on tight like your instincts tell you to. You'll almost never get the damn thing off.

quote:

Originally posted by P220 Smudge:

quote:

Originally posted by DansSIGs:
For versatility Plan B.

For idiot proof, simplicity, repeatability SureFire.

I feel like all of those adjectives apply to Plan B. If you can screw in a lightbulb, then you can’t get Plan B wrong. I’m not sure how it gets simpler than that, and with the taper, it consistently stops at the same spot each time.

I use primarily Griffin Taper Mount (Plan A), I have a couple TBAC CB mounts as well. Nearly identical in concept.

I’ve been contemplating shifting to (edit) Plan B because it’s becoming the new standard and very widely available from lots of manufacturers. Because of the design (taper in front of threads), the threads stay cleaner and therefore the can is less likely to get stuck.

Griffin (and I think TBAC) argue that their design (taper behind threads) means the taper stays cleaner, and hence better repeatability and more consistent accuracy at the expense of dirtier threads.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Shackelford,

I think something went wrong in that post, if you have Plan A why would you be contemplating shifting to Plan A. Or am I misreading that somehow. At this point in life without an investment in some other system (like me with surefire) I would surely pick Plan B.

quote:

Originally posted by myrottiety:
DO NOT monkey fist a taper mount can on tight like your instincts tell you to. You'll almost never get the damn thing off.

I agree, I had that issue with Plan A more than once. I haven't had that problem with Plan B yet. It's a lot more forgiving of over-tightening by hand than Plan A ever was for me. In the end, my conclusion was there must be something to the idea of keeping the taper in front of the threads.

quote:

Originally posted by Shackelford:
I’ve been contemplating shifting to Plan A because it’s becoming the new standard and very widely available from lots of manufacturers. Because of the design (taper in front of threads), the threads stay cleaner and therefore the can is less likely to get stuck.

I feel like you meant to type Plan B, because everything you described is Plan B.

quote:

Originally posted by Shackelford:
Griffin (and I think TBAC) argue that their design (taper behind threads) means the taper stays cleaner, and hence better repeatability and more consistent accuracy at the expense of dirtier threads.

I haven't heard that, but I could see either or both claiming it. I don't know about that. I think if you're getting carbon and fouling buildup on the tapers with Plan B, you've not hand-tightened them enough for the taper mount to engage correctly in the first place. Absent user error, I don't see how it's a problem, really.

It's my understanding that people complain about Keymo cans walking off. This adds secondary retention.

The weight, however...

quote:

Originally posted by hrcjon:
I don't see how that rescues keymo issues that are normally the ones people complain about.

so I need some education. Primarily I shoot Yhm Resonator's. Is there some other muzzle mounting device other then Yhm?

I also have a Griffin GP6 I believe which is a threaded mount. Is there some kind of mounting muzzle device I should be using when using it?

I am a bit of a dunce when it comes to this stuff.


Thanks guys.

If what you have currently is working for you, I honestly would t worry about it. This is all discussion more tuned for guys getting into suppressors now, or looking to set everything up so they can move suppressors around from host to host.

Wow, yeah, bad typo.. plan B, not A. Edited above.

ORC, I’m not sure about your Resonator (is it an original, or an R2?), but most on cans these days the mount itself is removable, and there’s a pretty widespread standard, referred to as a HUB, or 1 3/8” x 24, mount. This is the threading on the back of many cans to replace the mount. If your can is HUB compatible, you can remove the old YHM mount and use another style mounting system. As smudge says, it is mostly for guys with multiple cans and wanting to move them around. You can standardize the mount across all your rifles. If you’re happy with your one can, not much reason to change it.