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Serenity now! |
My wife has us putting together 72 hour kits for use in emergencies. I'd like to add a good, solid fixed-blade knife to my kit, and I've seen good reviews of the ESEE 4. My question is about the steel in the blade. Since I will rarely be using (and maintaining) this knife, would a 1095 carbon steel blade be a poor choice? I worry that I will open my kit one day to find the knife covered in rust. Ladies and gentlemen, take my advice - pull down your pants and slide on the ice. ʘ ͜ʖ ʘ | ||
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My common sense is tingling |
Give it a good coat with a dry rust inhibitor or renwax. If you live in a particularly humid area, reapply annually. You should be good to go. As another note, if you haven’t used it, then the only naked parts of the blade are the edge and where the logo/serial number are laser engraved. There isn’t a lot of real estate that needs to be protected. They also make a stainless model. “You can have peace. Or you can have freedom. Don't ever count on having both at once.” - Robert Heinlein | |||
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eh-TEE-oh-clez |
Kravashera has it right, the blade is epoxy coated so the only parts that would be susceptible to rust is the sharpened edge and the laser engraved logo. | |||
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Fighting the good fight |
The ESEE 3 on one of my gear bags has ridden around in a car for the past 10ish years, and been exposed to the full spectrum of Arkansas weather, including copious humidity. I apply a coating of Breakfree Collector oil once or twice a year, and have yet to run into any issues with rust. I wouldn't take it out boating on the ocean, or dunk it in water before sticking it in storage, but with even just minimal preventative care I don't think rust is much of a concern. Especially in a dry area like Utah. | |||
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If you're gonna be a bear, be a Grizzly! |
My ESEE-4 stays in the console of my truck, and I probably use it once or twice a year. If it does pick up a little rust on the exposed blade, which I've only noticed once, the first time you use it will take care of a little surface rust. I try to remember to keep it oiled, but I'll admit that it isn't high on my priority list. Here's to the sunny slopes of long ago. | |||
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Serenity now! |
well, I went ahead and ordered the ESEE 4. Thanks for all the answers! Ladies and gentlemen, take my advice - pull down your pants and slide on the ice. ʘ ͜ʖ ʘ | |||
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Ice age heat wave, cant complain. |
You'll love it. Which one did you get? NRA Life Member Steak: Rare. Coffee: Black. Bourbon: Neat. | |||
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Serenity now! |
I ordered this one (without the MOLLE attachment): Ladies and gentlemen, take my advice - pull down your pants and slide on the ice. ʘ ͜ʖ ʘ | |||
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Member |
I prefer the 3 to the 4 but that’s just a personal preference thing. I have a few of the 3s, one of them has take a serious beating over the past 2-3 years from survival classes and just general bushcrafting fun. I just use clpnor some oil or whatever I have handy to keep rust away. | |||
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Member |
Also, I like the venom green knives from ease, easy to find when I set them down. | |||
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Ice age heat wave, cant complain. |
NRA Life Member Steak: Rare. Coffee: Black. Bourbon: Neat. | |||
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The guy behind the guy |
I buy my ESEE’s uncoated and then drop them in a pot of boiling vinegar. It puts a nice patina on them that keeps the rust away. As I wear away the patina, I just drop them back in from time to time. Never had a problem with rust and i prefer this method to having a coated blade. If I can’t buy a model I want uncoated, I’ll strip it. As far as 1095 for a survival knife, I think it’s an ideal choice. I love 1095 because it’s so easy to sharpen up. One of those super steels would be a bitch without shaprening stones/tools. 1095 can be sharpened on almost anything to a usable edge. | |||
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Throwin sparks makin knives |
I love me some 1095 and 01! I can get em super sharp with a GOOD heat treat. I can get many of the Super steels razor sharp also with the same tools. Many of the Super steels can be treated to a hardness that only Diamond systems work easy. I try and find out the main use for a knife and then choose the steel and HRC. Carbon steel can be pretty much no maintenance, especially when finished out to a very high grit finish or polish. When bead blasting a finish you “welcome” moisture to become trapped in the pores and invite rust. Acid “etching” wether it be Coffee,Mustard,Lemon, Ferric Chloride,etc. is All controled rusting. | |||
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Member |
What do you use to strip them? I also prefer uncoated blades. | |||
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The guy behind the guy |
It's an orange citrus stripper I got at Home Depot. | |||
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Member |
^^^That's easy enough. I'm going to pick some up and try it. Thanks. | |||
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Member |
You chose...wisely! I have an ESEE 3 (RC-3MIL) that rode my gear in Iraq, now is strapped to my "get home" bag. I don't maintain it at all and it is sharp with no rust, ready for use. Caveat, I haven't really had to use it either, it is just faithfully there waiting! “People have to really suffer before they can risk doing what they love.” –Chuck Palahnuik Be harder to kill: https://preparefit.ck.page | |||
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Member! |
If you want to fill more emergency survival kits with fixed blade knives on the cheap (but not junky), I suggest Morakniv Stainless Knives. Why? Because they are cheap and proven to be tough, lightweight, with good steel knives perfect for storage emergency survival use. Reviews all over the place on Youtube on how good these knives are for the price. | |||
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Ice age heat wave, cant complain. |
Update please. NRA Life Member Steak: Rare. Coffee: Black. Bourbon: Neat. | |||
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Good, bad, I'm the guy with the gun |
ESEE knives are my choice of camping, outdoors, SHTF blades. They are extremely tough, inexpensive, easy to maintain knives. I have a -4, PR4, CR 2.5 and a Junglas 2. | |||
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