Let me start with the fact that I’m a complete beginner in knife sharpening or really knives in general. I just ordered a Microtech Hera as my first “nice” knife and in my search for my perfect OTF knife I realized that this is something that really interests me. And one of the things that I interested in doing is being able to effectively sharpen my own knives. So I’m looking for suggestions in what to get.

What I’m mostly interested in are automatic and folding knives, so I’d like something that can sharpen those types of knives well. I’d also like to be able to sharpen our dull as hell kitchen knives (these will be what I’ll start with for sure since they aren’t anything special).

So…what do you guys recommend? Budget…I’d like to keep it under $500.

I'm very happy with my TSProf system. Simple, but very effective.

I used a KME for years. Also have a TSProf from recs on this forum. Both will give precise mirror edges. Bought a Work Sharp Ken Onion a couple years back and the KME and TSProf have not left the closet since. If you want precision angles with a zen-like experience, go with TSProf or KME or the like. If you want a drawer full of razor-sharp knives in 10 minutes, get a Work Sharp.

quote:

Originally posted by pace40:
I used a KME for years. Also have a TSProf from recs on this forum. Both will give precise mirror edges. Bought a Work Sharp Ken Onion a couple years back and the KME and TSProf have not left the closet since. If you want precision angles with a zen-like experience, go with TSProf or KME or the like. If you want a drawer full of razor-sharp knives in 10 minutes, get a Work Sharp.

I agree - the worksharp is great once you get the hang of it. Belts are a little expensive, but if you stay on top of things they last a while. The coarse one will make quick work if you want to reprofile a blade.

I' a KME & Workshop guy too.
The fast & dirty like kitchen knives that get minimal care, I use the Workshop. My more expensive & harder blades get the KME.

Looking at the KME sharpener…is there any real benefit to going with the deluxe kit over the regular precision kit?

quote:

Originally posted by Largefarva:
Looking at the KME sharpener…is there any real benefit to going with the deluxe kit over the regular precision kit?

The base and extra stones are more than worth the extra $120. For mirror polishing, you may want to add a couple of the lapping films, although the strop and CBN that comes with the deluxe will get you pretty close.

quote:

Originally posted by pace40:

quote:

Originally posted by Largefarva:
Looking at the KME sharpener…is there any real benefit to going with the deluxe kit over the regular precision kit?

The base and extra stones are more than worth the extra $120. For mirror polishing, you may want to add a couple of the lapping films, although the strop and CBN that comes with the deluxe will get you pretty close.

Thanks for the info. I went ahead with the deluxe kit. In the meantime while waiting for it to be delivered I figure there’s some reading and video watching to do. Pretty excited to learn this stuff.

quote:

Originally posted by Largefarva:
Thanks for the info...

You're welcome, have fun!

quote:

Originally posted by flesheatingvirus:
I'm very happy with my TSProf system. Simple, but very effective.

Me too. I use it on 22 inch machete's down to 2 inch microtechs and everything in between, including scissors. I bought sandpaper sheets from 80 to 120k grit and flat aluminum plates. I couldn't be any happier with the results.

It serves no practical advantage but there is something about holding a 1/4 inch thick piece of steel so you can read the newspaper on its polished edge.

Many things to learn. Lots of variants to understand. Various standards of what constitutes a successful result.

Different steel alloys offer a wide range of hardness, density, flexibility, and wear resistance. Generally, the carbon steel alloy (tool steels) are easier to work with while the harder versions of "stainless" steel can require more effort. None are perfect for every application, although some are capable of performing over a broad range of uses.

Most knife blades are either saber-ground or hollow-ground. A saber-ground blade is generally stronger, but requires a lot of attention to profiling the final edge for the intended uses. A hollow-grind generally allows a lot of leeway in establishing a final edge profile, from greater or lesser angles to suit the intended use (either a very fine edge capable of extreme sharpness, or a steeper profile to retain greater strength in use). What works best for a shaving razor is not ideal for heavy uses like chopping or deep penetration.

I have several stones including carborundum in coarse and fine grits, hard and soft Arkansas stones, a good steel (for resetting edge angles that have been deflected by hard use), and diamond stones in several grits (from extremely fine to medium-fine).

Also have a good 10" Wusthof diamond-steel with an ovoid shape. Excellent for rapidly building a "working" edge on kitchen knives, including serrated edges (the ovoid shape allows just about any shape or angle of serration). This will not produce a razor edge, but is excellent for quickly and easily establishing a functional edge with a bit of attention to the angle applied.

Old retired buddy of mine retired from a meat packing plant. Tells me that all of their working knives were maintained on a simple belt sander with a fine-grit belt. Needless to say, knives were constantly arriving as new, worked on the line for two or three shifts per day, and retiring after repeated sharpening. He has given me several of the retired knives (butcher, boner, slicer), all of which retain perhaps half the original steel. These are excellent for field use on big game!

Some hours of study will probably set you on the right track for your needs. Lots of resources available on the internet these days! Probably a better start than lots of us older guys received from Dad and Grampa during hog slaughtering times.

Maybe not what your looking for but I like the Spyderco Tri-Angle Sharpmarker.

Well I received the KME deluxe kit this week and put it to use this weekend. Just starting on old kitchen knives, so nothing fancy, but I’ll bet that they are sharper now than they ever were.

I’ve watched a few videos on YouTube and I saw a couple of guys use the Arkansas translucent stone to help polish their blades. So I went ahead and ordered both the Arkansas translucent as well as the Arkansas black stones from KME. Does anyone know the approximate grit count of both of those stones?

I also found a grip knob for the end of the stone holder on amazon that will provide a bigger grip at the end of the stone holder. I realized that I was mainly sharpening while holding the stone holder itself and applying pressure when I shouldn’t have. I’m hoping that gripping it by the knob will help me break the tendency to apply pressure, because while the knives that I’ve sharpened are sharp as hell…they aren’t really that pretty. I’m wondering if my applying pressure was the cause of that.

Can't help with the grit of the Arkansas stones as I always used film or strop for polishing. I can tell you the only weight on the blade should be the weight of the stones. Practice makes perfect.

I'm about ready to order the KME so please post your thoughts, additions and things you might do differently.

quote:

Originally posted by braillediver:
I'm about ready to order the KME so please post your thoughts, additions and things you might do differently.

I went back and ordered the "beast" and the 100 grit diamond stones. They make short work of any reprofiling or serious edge repair. Also ordered the lapping films to play with mirror edges. Certainly not necessary though. I found using the stand easier than not. YMMV. I just use mineral oil for lubing and cleaning the stones. Way cheaper than the OEM oil. Never used any of the Arkansas stones. Have fun!

In case anyone was curious about the black or translucent Arkansas stones…the owner at KME replied to my inquiry and let me know that both stones are both around a 3000 grit or so. Good for following the 1500 diamond stone.

Best one I have found and usually free.
The Ceramic Rod inside Sodium Vapor lights.
Will get a table knife razor sharp.
Best part if you come a crossed crew changing light, normally they will give you a few.
To break light wrap in a towel, then remove Ceramic Rod.
If it is dirty, clean with mild soap, then dry, surface is rough, which is better for sharpening.
I run it down edge at the angel of blade 10 times, then 10 on other side. Keep repeating until blade is to your standards.
Just my 2 cents is not the cure to end everyone's trouble.

quote:

Originally posted by flesheatingvirus:
I'm very happy with my TSProf system. Simple, but very effective.

I agree 100%! The Russian embargo has made them almost twice the price since you bought yours!

I would not spend a bunch of money on a fancy sharpening system.

There are basic ways and techniques for sharpening knifes with things like stones, hones etc.
It takes time and practice. But is a skill that can be practiced and perfected to whatever degree you want. Mtcw anyways. Congrats on the knife.