Need a bottle jack that will lift at least 20”
I found this but the reviews are not so good.
https://m.northerntool.com/sho..._200641737_200641737
Total weight of the truck being used on is 6800 pounds

I've got some equipment that uses really tall bottle jacks. Probably 24" tall fully lowered. In addition to the height it needs to lift, what is the height it will need to fit under prior to lifting? Do you need a full 20" of lift?

quote:

Originally posted by a1abdj:
I've got some equipment that uses really tall bottle jacks. Probably 24" tall fully lowered. In addition to the height it needs to lift, what is the height it will need to fit under prior to lifting? Do you need a full 20" of lift?

I think I have right about 15” of clearance fully lowered.
My current floor jack has 18” of lift and I have to use a 4”x4” block to get the truck up high enough to remove the wheel.
I really need at least 22” of life so I don’t have to use a block.

Just to clarify... You need 20 inches of actual travel or 20" high overall?

That jack linked is 23" high... overall... extended. That jack probably has a stroke of about 11 or 12 inches.
23 overall extended minus the 3.5 inch screw out top minus the 9 inch base = actual stroke.

I guess a floor jack is out? I have a 3 ton extended reach that goes from 3 inches to 24 inches from either Harbor or Northern. But I think its lift capacity is overrated. Doubt it would actually lift 6000 lbs. It will lift either end or either side of a large SUV.

Just looking around and I stumbled across this hybrid. A jack combined with a jack stand. Seems very stable and safe to use. 11" lowered, 21" raised.

A good piece of hardwood the same size as the footprint could buy you another 2 inches easily and safely.

https://www.amazon.com/Alltrad...Bottle/dp/B003ULZGFU

I'm confused. To remove a wheel you need about 1-2" of lift max. Why is having a block under or over the jack an issue? There are telescoping bottle jacks but they are expensive...

quote:

Originally posted by hrcjon:
I'm confused. To remove a wheel you need about 1-2" of lift max. Why is having a block under or over the jack an issue? There are telescoping bottle jacks but they are expensive...

It's his money but that is what I was wondering. I have so many blocks of wood of different dimensions in my garage I don't give a second thought to grabbing one and lifting what I need to.

quote:

Originally posted by cparktd:
Just to clarify... You need 20 inches of actual travel or 20" high overall?

22” of total lift would be ideal.

quote:

Originally posted by Bassamatic:

quote:

Originally posted by hrcjon:
I'm confused. To remove a wheel you need about 1-2" of lift max. Why is having a block under or over the jack an issue? There are telescoping bottle jacks but they are expensive...

It's his money but that is what I was wondering. I have so many blocks of wood of different dimensions in my garage I don't give a second thought to grabbing one and lifting what I need to.

Sorry. The floor jack with a block is fine for the house.
The bottle jack will be kept in the truck all the time if I get a flat on the road or trail.
The factory scissor jack does not quite cut it since adding the lift and tires.
Eventually when I get my sliders a hi lift jack will be part of my recovery gear.

Just go with Hi Lift jack .
Doubles as a recovery come along, so you are getting 2 tools .
https://hi-lift.com/hi-lift-jacks/
https://mobtownoffroad.com/pro...tegory/rock-sliders/

quote:

Originally posted by SIGfourme:
Just go with Hi Lift jack .
Doubles as a recovery come along, so you are getting 2 tools .
https://hi-lift.com/hi-lift-jacks/
https://mobtownoffroad.com/pro...tegory/rock-sliders/

I knocked myself out with one of those Hi Lift jacks one time. I was jacking up a old car out in a farmers pasture boning parts off it. I was in the lift stroke with it but I didn't lift all the way the tension was still on the jack handle. I bent down to try to look underneath the car when my hand slipped off the end of the handle. The handle came flying back up caught me in the side of the head. Good night!

They have such a tiny footprint that they can be very unstable even with a platform underneath them especially when they get to over half of their reach.

The Safe Jack linked in the thread above is the best way to go for the OP's application.

Make up some blocks of wood to build a crib under the bottle jack. You'll need the wood for soft ground anyway.

What lift point(s) are you using? I ask because it sounds like you are lifting on the frame and allowing the suspension to droop?

Is it possible to lift from a different point and avoid the suspension droop?

If there is, it might change the beast you seek.

You could use an air bag jack

Air bag jack

I have one of these...pricy but worth it

https://safejacks.com/products...-without-bottle-jack

quote:

Originally posted by SIGfourme:
Just go with Hi Lift jack .
Doubles as a recovery come along, so you are getting 2 tools .
https://hi-lift.com/hi-lift-jacks/
https://mobtownoffroad.com/pro...tegory/rock-sliders/

This was my final plan though I will be using these 90" sliders

http://www.chassisunlimited.co...ider-kit-sqaure.html

This bottle jack will probably just be temporary until I can afford the sliders.

quote:

Originally posted by ffips:
What lift point(s) are you using? I ask because it sounds like you are lifting on the frame and allowing the suspension to droop?

Is it possible to lift from a different point and avoid the suspension droop?

If there is, it might change the beast you seek.

Frame is my best option at the moment

quote:

Originally posted by dewhorse:
I have one of these...pricy but worth it

https://safejacks.com/products...-without-bottle-jack

Though this may be a better option than a hi lift

quote:

Originally posted by Black92LX:

quote:

Originally posted by SIGfourme:
Just go with Hi Lift jack .
Doubles as a recovery come along, so you are getting 2 tools .
https://hi-lift.com/hi-lift-jacks/
https://mobtownoffroad.com/pro...tegory/rock-sliders/

This was my final plan though I will be using these 90" sliders

http://www.chassisunlimited.co...ider-kit-sqaure.html

This bottle jack will probably just be temporary until I can afford the sliders.

quote:

Originally posted by ffips:
What lift point(s) are you using? I ask because it sounds like you are lifting on the frame and allowing the suspension to droop?

Is it possible to lift from a different point and avoid the suspension droop?

If there is, it might change the beast you seek.

Frame is my best option at the moment

quote:

Originally posted by dewhorse:
I have one of these...pricy but worth it

https://safejacks.com/products...-without-bottle-jack

Though this may be a better option than a hi lift

Hi lifts are not an ideal solution unless you are working on vehicle recovery.....and even then I prefer a good come along.

I carry the above kit and the below come along with the Amsteel blue rope in my truck......

https://www.wyeth-scott.com

That’s quite a come along.
But for a couple hundred bucks more you’re in a 10k Warn Winch which is the plan.

While changing a flat in less than ideal conditions on my Raptor, my factory scissor jack bent and fell. I used my Hi-Lift jack to get myself out of the problem, as the Hi-Lift sank in the mud because my one 2x6 was under the truck in the mud.

I got hold of a crank up type bottle jack (and crank handle) out of an F-250 and carry plenty of lumber. I doubt if it has enough telescopic length to lift a tire from the frame, so I lift at the LCA.