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Web Clavin Extraordinaire
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posted
I'm finally getting my reloading and gun area organized after a move. I'm replacing my old composite reloading bench top with a new, larger maple packing table, but reusing the same legs.

Legs are standard workbench legs that you can get from Uline or similar.

What is my best bet for fasteners to attach the legs to the top since it's maple?

Threaded inserts seem best, but I don't have a drill press so getting them installed perfectly 90 degrees seems problematic.

Are there any other screws or bolts I should look at, or should I go with threaded inserts?

Bench top is 1.75" thick.


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Chuck Norris put the laughter in "manslaughter"

Educating the youth of America, one declension at a time.
 
Posts: 19868 | Location: SE PA | Registered: January 12, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I’m not exactly sure what type of legs you’re talking about but lags are the first thing that comes to mind. Do you have a pic?
 
Posts: 2690 | Location: Illinois  | Registered: July 14, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Web Clavin Extraordinaire
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More or less like this:

https://www.globalindustrial.c...7CbA8xhoC3hwQAvD_BwE

Original bench was a Global Industrial, so the legs are more or less the same as in this link. Eight holes per leg.

New maple top is just about the same as in this link, just from Uline instead of Global Industrial.


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Chuck Norris put the laughter in "manslaughter"

Educating the youth of America, one declension at a time.
 
Posts: 19868 | Location: SE PA | Registered: January 12, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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All the wooden top workbenches I have seen use lag bolts or large screws with appropriately sized pilot holes.
I only think of threaded inserts for repeated assembly and disassembly.
 
Posts: 1330 | Location: Moved to N.W. MT. | Registered: April 26, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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If you don't want bolts through the top, hanger bolts would work.
 
Posts: 1932 | Location: New Mexico | Registered: March 21, 2017Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Down the Rabbit Hole
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quote:
Originally posted by Oat_Action_Man:
More or less like this:

https://www.globalindustrial.c...7CbA8xhoC3hwQAvD_BwE

Original bench was a Global Industrial, so the legs are more or less the same as in this link. Eight holes per leg.

New maple top is just about the same as in this link, just from Uline instead of Global Industrial.


We have 6 of these. 4 down at our shop and 2 at the house. They have been fantastic. Got them all from Global Industrial. We actually got one of them free. It has some slight cosmetic damage and they sent me another one for free. I guess it was cheaper than trying to send it back.

I pre-drilled the holes and used the provided wood screws. The Maple/Birch tops are quite heavy. These are very solid workbenches.


Diligentia, Vis, Celeritas

"People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf."
-- George Orwell

 
Posts: 5536 | Location: North Mississippi | Registered: August 09, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Optimistic Cynic
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Pretty good excuse to buy a drill press! There are also guides for hand drills that expedite making accurate holes.

Then I'd bore a pilot hole through the top, and a bigger recess for the through bolt head & nut. Don't forget the lock washer on the nut! You can fill the recess with wood putty, epoxy, or a cylindrical wafer.
 
Posts: 7909 | Location: NoVA | Registered: July 22, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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If you're not relying on the leg attachment to keep the legs vertical, it probably doesn't matter much. Even #12 wood screws would probably be adequate. I would size the fastener to the holes in the metal base. I wouldn't be too worried about that top going anywhere on that base.
 
Posts: 765 | Registered: March 16, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Ever wrestle a 2'x6'x1.75" top in a drill press? No thanks. You don't need inserts or through-bolts.

Identify the hole size in the legs. Get a screw (lag or structural) that will fit and long enough to pass through leg + ~1/2 thickness of top. The leg will dictate the head type (countersink or washer), but I'd get the smallest shank dia allowable - you can always go bigger if you need to replace it.
Pre-drill with proper size bit to proper depth.
run screw in, don't hammer it home.

All you need to do is keep it from shifting. The legs will hold it up.
Last one I built, I counter bored 2/3 the way though a 2x4 stretcher just because my pocket hole jig was in the basement and I was too lazy to go get it. I used deck screws since I didn't have a 1/8" bit that could predrill 4 1/2"

If you must have easily-removable, threaded inserts aren't really that picky about the hole, or rather they'll go cockeyed in a perfectly perpendicular hole at their whim. A forstner bit is pretty easy to square up by hand. Twist/Spade, not so much, but you can use a guide with a hand drill. Drill guide
 
Posts: 3423 | Location: IN | Registered: January 12, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Thank you
Very little
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quote:
guides for hand drills


This makes sense for this job and any future job you might have, turning a hand drill into a mini press.

https://www.amazon.com/drill-guide/s?k=drill+guide

Then you will have a straight hole, regardless if you are using inserts or not you can pre drill the guide holes making the larger screws go in straight.

How does the manufacture of the one in your link attach the top to the legs, it wasn't obvious in the pictures.
 
Posts: 27602 | Location: Gunshine State | Registered: November 07, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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