The next stop is to Google “Bob is the oil guy” aka BITOG, which has lengthy and informed discussions on this topic as well as “which oil brand is the best.” There is a lot to these topics, on the technical aspects...

...but I have achieved complete zen-like peace of mind by using major brand name synthetic oil and changing it at 5000 mile intervals (at which time I also rotate the tires) and never looking back.

Oil debate here is probably like caliber debate.

On my 2003 Civic, the maintenance light comes on at 5,000 miles. I use regular oil and change the oil and rotate the tires at that time.

My 2018 Highlander, the maintenance light comes on every 5,000 miles but the manual says change the oil every 10,000 miles. I skipped the pre-paid maintenance after the first time because it took too much time out of one of my two days off and do it myself. I use synthetic every 5,000-7,500 miles even though Toyota calls for a longer interval. Why? Because that's also when I rotate the tires, don't want to wait 10,000 miles to rotate the tires. I also change it sooner because my wife makes mostly short trips, around 7 miles each way to drop off/pick up kid at school.

My 2003 Z06 I had, that had an oil life meter which did not go by mileage. I believe that measured temperature, heat cycles, starts, etc. I usually changed that once a year in the spring, typical mileage on that car was less than 10,000 miles a year using full synthetic.

I use full synthetic mobile 1 every 5k. probably not necessary since i'm a highway commuter, not heavy or severe duty. but it gives me peace of mind since I drive my vehicles until the proverbial wheels fall off. i also stopped using motrcraft filters on my fords, after researching their paticulate metrics.

Mercedes Benz - Yep. Counts the rpm and all kinds of engines variables.

quote:

Originally posted by PD:
I researched the hell out of the GM system for the Vette. The consensus seems to be extremely accurate. Plus I use Mobile.

I looked into it for my Vette too. I visit the Corvette Forum frequently. On this forum, I found the retired GM Engineer that actually developed the Oil Life Monitor program for the C5. He said the algorithm looks at many different parameters. I asked him if the program took into account the fact that I track my car. He said those conditions are also included.

My car calls for full synthetic. It's every 10k miles or one calendar year.

I never make it to one year. I always change every 7500 miles which is usually 5-6 months. I would try for 10k but I'm running a tune on my car so I might as well change it early.

It costs me about $50-$60.

My work car is telling me there is 14% oil life left. We had it changed 1800 miles during the first week of the year. We have a lot of idle hours and my chief refuses to change it unless we hit 3000 miles. So for about another few weeks the car will keep yelling at me because it says the oil life is at 0%.

quote:

Originally posted by wrightd:
I use full synthetic mobile 1 every 5k. probably not necessary since i'm a highway commuter, not heavy or severe duty. but it gives me peace of mind since I drive my vehicles until the proverbial wheels fall off. i also stopped using motrcraft filters on my fords, after researching their paticulate metrics.

What kind of filter do you use now?

I'm 100% certain modern oil condition computers are very accurate, but ALWAYS change the oil in the three cars every 5,000 miles with a good, name brand full synthetic. The motorcycles, which don't have oil life meters, get their oil changed once a year with full synthetic since no one bike ever gets more than 2,500 miles; sometimes way less.

Pennzoil Ultra Platinum in the Ram truck and Bullitt ; Castrol Edge or BMW LL in the BMW. Ford Performance Filters on the Bullitt, Mobil 1 Filter for the truck. I have a 2-post lift in my shop, so I wait for O'Reilly to have a promotion and buy oil and filters when they're cheap.

We changed the oil and filter on the squads at work (Tahoes and Rams) every 6000 miles. They get kept until they're up to 180 -200K mileage and have the shit kicked out of them 365 days a year in all weathers and temperatures. You'd call that 'severe duty' or 'heavy duty' use. Started in - 35 degrees, or 100 degrees and driven code 3 from a dead stop. Left idling for hours on end to keep the computers cool, or warm, depending on the time of year and keep the batteries topped up at scenes.

Seems to be plenty good enough.

The 3k interval is just an old school holdover from the days of oil without all the new additives and detergents, and it's just pouring good money down the drain IMNSHO. My own truck gets a filter and oil change every fall, unless I've put 10k on earlier.

quote:

Originally posted by PASig:
All you guys changing your full synthetic at 5,000 miles are wasting your money, IMO

But the oil change shops and dealers LOVE YOU.

Agreed!

My 2017 Civic Si tells me to change oil about every 9,0000 miles, with mostly highway driving. The odd thing is that it says to change the filter every other oil change, which is kind of dumb, so it' gets changed with the oil.

Engine is 1.5L DI Turbo @ 20 psi max, and uses 0W20 full Synthetic. Little thing feels a lot bigger than it is.

So I get the oil/filter changed and all other service when it tells me to. It's nice that dealers don't bother trying to upsell you on unnecessary service based on miles or time - which was always based on "severe duty" maintenance schedule, or cherry picking the most frequent interval from each car in the lineup and making a universal schedule. Just do what the car says to do. And no, I don't need my cabin air filter changed for $60. It's a $15 filter and takes 5 minute to change....

These threads always peak my attention because there are so many differing opinions on the length between normal changes, gauges, and routines. I never fit in with most all the posts and just kinda feel it out for my situation.

I have a 2013 Honda Accord V6 that has just turned the ODO over at 6,000 miles this week. I never planned to drive it so little but just worked out that way. It sits in the garage most all the time and I asked on the Honda forum for my generation Accord about oil change cycles because of the limited mileage and it was recommended to just change it annually because it sits so much and moisture or contaminants may be getting into the oil.

Common sense tells me that this may be just myth or opinion but have changed the synth oil 3 times in my almost 7 yrs of ownership because my situation is so different from many others. When I do drive it's mostly a longer Expressway drive to my Credit Union or grocery pick-up. I do drive short trips as well around town, but not as often.

This is a good topic and I'm always interested in everybody's reply however unique. My situation as mentioned is so different and always peaks my curiosity.

Manufacturers like to tout the low maintenance cost of their vehicles. However, there is a school of thought that changing the oil filter every other oil change is not only perfectly okay, but actually beneficial to the filters ability to remove contaminants.

The Suburban we just bought is the first vehicle we have owned with one of these oil percentage indicators.

Pretty sure the dealer say 1 year, 10k, or whenever the computer says to change it.
I looked at the thing an it says 19%. Pretty sure it calls for 0w20 full synthetic. I get two years free maintenance (two oil changes) so I’ll have them change the oil next week.
My guess is they use AcDelco oil and filter.
I’ll be interested to see what the indicator reads at 5k and 7k. I’ll probably swap out at 7k just for peace of mind.
In this truck I’ll likely use Shell Rotella 0w20 and an ACDelco filter.

I’ll use Amsoil in the differentials and transfer case and swap those at 50k. It has 55k on it so I guess I’ll do them my next warm day off.

Ultimately, I personally think these oil change monitoring systems as there for the people, who if not notified by the car, would change their oil every 50k miles, whether it needed it or not. Since I religiously track my maintenance in a phone app, I tend to ignore the automated systems and replace my oil and filter around 7.5k miles. And remember the weaker link in the oiling system is the oil filter. I might agree that modern synthetic oils can go 10k+ miles between changes, but I am not willing to rely on a $8 oil filter to continue to function adequately during that extended service interval.

quote:

Originally posted by bigdeal:
Ultimately, I personally think these oil change monitoring systems as there for the people, who if not notified by the car, would change their oil every 50k miles, whether it needed it or not. Since I religiously track my maintenance in a phone app, I tend to ignore the automated systems and replace my oil and filter around 7.5k miles. And remember the weaker link in the oiling system is the oil filter. I might agree that modern synthetic oils can go 10k+ miles between changes, but I am not willing to rely on a $8 oil filter to continue to function adequately during that extended service interval.

Based on research I agree that the filter is the "weak link" in the lubrication realm. I think the fleet maintenance mechanics for big rigs universally agree, other things being equal. I used motorcraft filters exclusively for my fords until I looked into ther specs more carefully. Also, filters rated "higher" for longevity are actually have worse particulate specs than "regual" non-extened filters.

quote:

Originally posted by bigdeal:
Ultimately, I personally think these oil change monitoring systems as there for the people, who if not notified by the car, would change their oil every 50k miles, whether it needed it or not.

You can think that but it simply not true.

I changed the oil and filter in my 2013 GMC 2500 HD Duramax last week. Saves some money doing it myself. I finished adding oil and reset the oil monitor. It read 100%. I backed out of the garage and then parked to the side on the driveway. In that short amount of time and distance the monitor dropped to 99%. I keep an eye out on mileage in addition to the monitor.

quote:

Originally posted by Black92LX:

In this truck I’ll likely use Shell Rotella 0w20 and an ACDelco filter.

I’ll use Amsoil in the differentials and transfer case and swap those at 50k. It has 55k on it so I guess I’ll do them my next warm day off.

If you've hooked up a couple years free maintenance, I'd guess you also have some sort of CPO or similar warranty. Until that runs its course I'd not give them an avenue to deny a claim in the unlikely event of an engine failure. Unless I'm mistaken, almost all GMC engines in a Sub call for 5W30 don't they?

Hang onto those receipts!

quote:

Originally posted by Georgeair:

quote:

Originally posted by Black92LX:

In this truck I’ll likely use Shell Rotella 0w20 and an ACDelco filter.

I’ll use Amsoil in the differentials and transfer case and swap those at 50k. It has 55k on it so I guess I’ll do them my next warm day off.

If you've hooked up a couple years free maintenance, I'd guess you also have some sort of CPO or similar warranty. Until that runs its course I'd not give them an avenue to deny a claim in the unlikely event of an engine failure. Unless I'm mistaken, almost all GMC engines in a Sub call for 5W30 don't they?

Hang onto those receipts!

Yes, factory CPO vehicle.
All my reading indicates that the Ecotec3 5.3L takes 8 quarts of 0w20 full synthetic.
ACDelco Dexos1 approved

Shell Rotella 0w20 is dexos approved so I don’t see an issue.
https://www.shell-livedocs.com...cfc-9d0feded8a48.pdf