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Green grass and high tides |
Thinking of using it on a oak table versus do a complete refinish? Any one with experience with it? Thx "Practice like you want to play in the game" | ||
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Dances With Tornados |
Yes, good stuff. Works great on metal, too. I've been restoring old tools using it. | |||
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Member |
I use it on tools as well. I use the clear and put it on metal to prevent rust and make working easier. I put it on the table saw table, jointer table, plane soles, chisels, blued metal of firearms. I have zero rust problems and on tables and soles it makes pushing easier. I read it as a quality product no matter where it is used. However, I have not used it as the only finish on wood. As an “overcoat” on top of an existing finish, I think it would be fine. Reapply any time you want. I used it on gunstocks as well. Nice smooth, uniform finish without being slippery. | |||
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Nullus Anxietas |
Have you found it works better than the most common recommendations for that purpose: Johnson's Paste Wax or Boeshield T-9? "America is at that awkward stage. It's too late to work within the system,,,, but too early to shoot the bastards." -- Claire Wolfe "If we let things terrify us, life will not be worth living." -- Seneca the Younger, Roman Stoic philosopher | |||
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Green grass and high tides |
Thanks guys. Yes, it will be an overcoat application on the table. I think it is worth a shot vs a full refinish. "Practice like you want to play in the game" | |||
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Member |
Sorry for the drift, For the way I use it, Briwax, Johnson’s Paste wax and Butchers Paste wax all work about the same. The advantage of Briwax, in Old Rugged Cross’ application, is that it can be purchased with different stains blended in. In my application, I suppose the stain might color metal, but it is doubtful that it would be permanent. If I need to remove the wax, alcohol or (sparingly) acetone will remove them all. ORG - I agree with you, I would try the Briwax first and see how you like it. | |||
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