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quarter MOA visionary
Picture of smschulz
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I regrip golf clubs with double stick tape and I use a solvent from Golf Works.

https://www.golfworks.com/the-...-solvents/p/vb1034v/

I use it on other items like labels or stickers all the time.
Before that we used to lighter fluid.
It's petroleum based but there are water based ones as well.
WD 40 will work but not nearly as good.
YMMV
 
Posts: 23476 | Location: Houston, TX | Registered: June 11, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of cparktd
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Amazon prime has the goo-gone gallon for $39… delivered Saturday… at least for my location.



Collecting dust.
 
Posts: 4234 | Location: Middle Tennessee | Registered: February 07, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Caught in a loop
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Well hell, apparently Home Depot has the gallon jugss available in a store near here. A little out of the way but not terrible. Guess I know where I'm going after work.

I had to go anyway to get an outlet and a light switch for the light fixture. I'm excited to finally get this area organized and usable - things are finally starting to fall into place.


"In order to understand recursion, you must first learn the principle of recursion."
 
Posts: 3392 | Location: Memphis, TN | Registered: August 23, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Maybe use a hand power planer (see link) and then sand. Wen is a good product, within your budget and time frame seems to work. And in the end, you have a hand power planer in your bags of tools.

Wen Power Planer
 
Posts: 3190 | Location: PNW | Registered: November 16, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of Black92LX
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quote:
Originally posted by vulrath:
quote:
Originally posted by Black92LX:
Not familiar with the table but could you not just sand the entire top smooth and then apply a nice new clear coat to the top?


Sure, but only after scraping off the crap that's stuck on top. It's honestly just as easy (and a little bit less messy) to just scrape it off and refinish the table as it is to clean, sand and refinish.

Again, I've tried acetone and it doesn't work very well. I still have to scrape the ever loving shit out of the adhesive crap.


Not understanding why you need to scrape it first then sand just sand the foam off.
No solvent or scraping needed?


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Posts: 25940 | Registered: September 06, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Caught in a loop
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The foam itself is about 1/8" thick and the goo that is left behind when I scrape that as much as I can is anathema to abrasives. Far, far less labor and materials used if I remove it chemically. I tried to upload a picture from my phone but imgur is erroring out. I'll have to put it up when I get out of work.


"In order to understand recursion, you must first learn the principle of recursion."
 
Posts: 3392 | Location: Memphis, TN | Registered: August 23, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Caught in a loop
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quote:
Originally posted by old dino:
Maybe use a hand power planer (see link) and then sand. Wen is a good product, within your budget and time frame seems to work. And in the end, you have a hand power planer in your bags of tools.

Wen Power Planer


I actually have the Harbor freight version of this. The grip actually angers my wrist. I honestly will be doing a final scraping using hand planes more than likely. Probably a card scraper, but a scraper plane isn't out of the running.


"In order to understand recursion, you must first learn the principle of recursion."
 
Posts: 3392 | Location: Memphis, TN | Registered: August 23, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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When chemically stripping vehicles, we spread the remover over the project and then covered the area with plastic, reason being, the plastic stopped evaporation allowing the chemical to work its way into the substrate. Good luck stay safe!
 
Posts: 5775 | Location: west 'by god' virginia | Registered: May 30, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Buy a piece of plexiglass from home depot and screw it down over the residue. Save the time and effort of scraping.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/OP...t-1AG3622A/100402513


 
Posts: 5499 | Location: Pittsburgh, PA, USA | Registered: February 27, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Caught in a loop
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quote:
Originally posted by recoatlift:
When chemically stripping vehicles, we spread the remover over the project and then covered the area with plastic, reason being, the plastic stopped evaporation allowing the chemical to work its way into the substrate. Good luck stay safe!


Job's done. This right here was the most useful tip.

I ended up folding up some paper towels and wetting it with solvent before I covered everything up. This let me concentrate it where I was working, so it would come up without a fight. I ended up buying 36 oz of the solvent (turned out to be goof off, not goo gone) - 12 oz was enough to do about half the table, then another 12 to finish out the crap on there. The last 12 oz can ended up getting used to spot wipe places that weren't completely clean. Now I need to sand it down and apply polyurethane, and start loading it up with crap again. I've been taking pics as I go, once I get time I'll assemble everything and post it up.


"In order to understand recursion, you must first learn the principle of recursion."
 
Posts: 3392 | Location: Memphis, TN | Registered: August 23, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Nail polish remover every time.


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Posts: 301 | Registered: January 10, 2020Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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