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Serenity now! |
My wife was driving on the freeway today, and heard the alternator belt break. She immediately got a warning message to pull over, so she drove to the next exit and stopped, maybe about 3 miles total. Had the car towed to a dealer, they will replace the belt but also want to replace the tensioner pulley - about $500 worth of work. What is the likelyhood the pulley was damaged in that short amount of time? Also, the car is 7 years old, with the original alternator. Would it be best to have them replace the alternator at the same time? This is a 2016 Mazda CX-5 Ladies and gentlemen, take my advice - pull down your pants and slide on the ice. ʘ ͜ʖ ʘ | ||
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Member |
It's not that the tensioner broke when or after the belt broke. The tensioner probably went bad causing the belt to break. Was there any squealing prior to the belt breaking? You could take your chances that the tensioner is fine, but find yourself needing another tow in a few thousand miles. $500 seems an aweful lot for a $100 part and an hour's labor. 2 at the most. If you weren't experiencing any electrical issues or having trouble with the battery charging, your alternator should be fine. Hedley Lamarr: Wait, wait, wait. I'm unarmed. Bart: Alright, we'll settle this like men, with our fists. Hedley Lamarr: Sorry, I just remembered . . . I am armed. | |||
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delicately calloused |
I know idler bearings can fail which might be why they are suggesting a replacement. Do you trust that dealer? If so, then you likely do need a replacement and if you are not inclined to do the work, then maybe 500.00 is worth not risking another failure or the pain of taking the car elsewhere to get it done cheaper. I'll add I have little faith in aftermarket parts except through just a couple of sources. Too many parts are Chinesium these days and don't last. Even some dealer parts are made in China but the quality control seems to be better than those sold through chain parts stores. I say that because having the repair done at the dealer means you'll get dealer quality parts and likely some kind of warranty. I've played this out before with my vehicles. Some services I'll do myself if they are anticipated and done before I'm left on the side of the road. Generally, if I breakdown away from home, I'll just have the work done and while more expensive up front, I've had good service from dealers I trust. In your case, I think I'd pay the man and get on the road. You’re a lying dog-faced pony soldier | |||
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| Back, and to the left  |
I had an idler pulley bearing on an 82 280ZX that had apparently locked up some indeterminate time before I discovered it. Evidently the old V-belt had just continued on, simply sliding along the groove of the locked pulley. No noise at all ever. I can't remember which belt, maybe the A/C. This was in Colorado in January. I bought a bearing and belts and borrowed access to a press. The pulley was fine, just had to clean the rubber glaze off it. The thing was, I had just come back from driving from Colo. Springs to Steamboat Springs in a snowstorm on the way up through a 11,300 foot pass and back the next day when the weather had cleared. I think I was riding with the angels on that one. | |||
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I absolutely agree with this. Aftermarket parts, at least in my experience, are not the same quality as dealership parts. Even though they may look exactly the same. What good is a local auto store part with a lifetime warranty if you have to change it out all the time? My truck goes to the dealer now. Yep, it’s expensive, but I’m getting good parts and some peace of mind. | |||
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Firearms Enthusiast |
Replacing the tensioner is a really good idea even if its still functioning at this time which I highly doubt given that the belt broke and left you on the side of the road. Let them replace it! | |||
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| Member |
I'd consider it standard practice to replace a tensioner when you lost a belt at 7yrs. The price actually seems a bit steep, but parts costs are really variable depending on the brand. For my vehicles where downtime is truly problematic (towing horses) I just toss the belt and tensioner in the junk pile every 5 years and move the old parts into the highway spares. Has reduced this issue to zero over the last several trucks (and decades). “So in war, the way is to avoid what is strong, and strike at what is weak.” | |||
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| His diet consists of black coffee, and sarcasm.  |
Automatic belt tensioner and serpentine belt, I assume. IF - that's a mighty big "if" - it moves and snaps back freely, without excessive play at the pivot, it is not worn causing the pulley to be out of line, if the pulley didn't seize, maybe you can reuse it. But chances are something caused that belt to break, and that something is often the tensioner. I always check and often suggest them when replacing a belt. https://ricksfreeautorepairadv...-belt-drive-systems/ Scroll down about halfway to "The Role of the Automatic Belt Tensioner." | |||
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To all of you who are serving or have served our country, Thank You |
I do most of my own work so it would just be cost of parts for me. But If it was me I would think hard about replacing it depending on miles on the unit and how the bearing felt and sounded. I would also check out the alternator and compressor if they are on the same serpentine belt? very thoroughly. A bad tensioner, alternator, or compressor can also take out a serpentine belt. Years ago Mazda used to have their fair share of compressor failures. | |||
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Seeker of Clarity |
I had a belt go on my old Mercedes. They said the tensioner was bad and needed replaced. And it was only maybe 5 years old from having been replaced before. I did it though. Mostly labor in a belt job, so adding it was a good idea im my mind. Been running good ever since.  | |||
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Not really from Vienna |
Taking into account that your wife drives this car, I believe I’d err on the side of caution and have the tensioner replaced. If only for peace of mind it will give her. | |||
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Quick search Tensioner This style of tensioner will go bad a lot sooner than a lever & spring type. It's certainly possible & the search came up with a lot of 'tensioner leaking' posts. This site says $250, but they also have the engine mounted the wrong way in their graphic.... I would say $500 is too much for belt + tensioner + labor, but it might be that much in your area. | |||
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| That rug really tied the room together.  |
On many cars consider a tensioner ready to be replaced at about 100,000 miles. On some cars you can get way more than that, but not all cars. ______________________________________________________ Often times a very small man can cast a very large shadow | |||
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| Member |
Something caused the belt to go, tensioner most likely suspect, if the shop didn't say it was the alternator I wouldn't change it, not sure what brand Mazda uses, but Japanese brands like Denso typically last over 200000 miles. $500 seems high for a belt and tensioner, but... these days finding a shop that can do it in a few days is rare. “Let us dare to read, think, speak and write.” John Adams | |||
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| Member |
Most shops/dealers are $150-200 per hour these days. I would definately change the tensioner if the dealer says it's bad.......most likely the cause of the broken belt. Do you want your wife stuck on the side of the road again? | |||
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| His diet consists of black coffee, and sarcasm. |
In a recent conversation with an extended warranty company rep, the guy expressed surprise that the independent shop I work in is "only" $105. | |||
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