Trane Heat Pump. In the event of a power outage, Motel 6. They leave a light on for us.

Propane furnace and a wood fireplace with a forced air system for it. That fireplace is going pretty much all day during the few winter months we get.

Central furnace propane fed.

Basically the Sun, I don't think I've turned on the heat more than a half dozen times in 30 years, hell it might not even work!

LP forced air furnace.

Wood stove. Oil hot water & heat backup (hydronic).

We have a forced air natural gas furnace. Last year we spent an outrageous amount of money to buy a wood stove fireplace insert. We ran that thing all winter and greatly enjoyed it, and it pretty much kept the furnace from running at all except on really, really cold days or if we were gone for an extended period of time and couldn't keep the stove fed.

The one problem is that I drastically underestimated the amount of wood required. I started the winter with about a cord and a half, and that was all gone by January. So I was out in the town dump cutting up logs in -10 degree weather trying to keep it fed the rest of the winter.

This year I've gotten ahead of it. I built a woodshed and have almost 5 cord split and stacked in there, plus another 2 or 3 cord seasoning waiting to be split. I have a line on another 2 or so that I'm planning to cut and haul home in the next few weeks, and all of that should be ready to burn immediately. Hopefully that'll be enough to see us through the winter.

Natural gas fired baseboard hot water (hydronic)

Natural gas forced air furnace is our primary source. We have a wood burning insert in the fireplace that can heat the entire first floor of our home. I like to keep it going Friday nights through Monday mornings on the winter weekends.

Geothermal with an LP fireplace and an electric firepllace

Primary is a pellet stove. When it gets near zero Fahrenheit in January, we will turn up the thermostats just a bit and the backup oil fired hydronic baseboard hot water system will run some.
We had a frozen boiler heat loop several years ago and installed boiler antifreeze in the system so that wouldn't occur again.

One of the things I didn't like about the pellet stove, in really cold weather you will be emptying the ashes/cinders bin about every two days.
The pellet stove has an automated shutdown process. It turns itself off when you press the button and takes almost an hour for shutdown/cooling.
When it's done, you open the ash bin access door and dump out the bin. Then fill the pellet supply bin, and relight the pellet stove. (also automated & electric ignition)

The whole shutdown/cooling/refill/relight process takes at least 1.5 hours. During that time, essentially zero BTU's output so the house cooled off dramatically.
No, you didn't freeze to death, but for several hours you might want a sweatshirt. My usual winter "uniform" is gym shorts and a T shirt.
The pellet stove is about six feet away from where I am typing this.

I ordered/purchased some pellet stove maintenance parts recently. Several gaskets and a pellet feed wheel cutting knife so when I disassemble and clean the guts of the pellet stove, I have parts in stock here.
I also bought a second ash bin. It's OEM and nicely built, $62.
Why? When it's zero Fahrenheit, without shutting the pellet stove down, I can open the ash bin access door, slide the full bin out, slide the empty bin in, shut the ash bin access door in about 15 seconds.
It still requires weekly cleanings, but it will be nice to only shut the pellet stove down once per week for cleaning, rather than 3 to 4 times per week just for emptying the ash bin.

The oil fired boiler, water softener, and well pressure tank live in an attached room on the house. Formerly, the boiler room was heated with waste heat from the boiler.
Now with the pellet stove doing primary heating duty, the boiler doesn't run enough for the boiler waste heat to keep the boiler room above freezing.
The boiler room window needs to be open at least an inch for proper air supply for combustion, so the cold outside makeup air is always getting into the boiler room.
I had a new 20 AMP electrical circuit run in the boiler room, and added a 10" diameter thermometer for monitoring boiler room temperature, and two infrared chicken coop lamps.

When it hits 10 Fahrenheit outside, I plug in one chicken coop lamp. At zero, I plug the second lamp in.
It's taken several years of practice & experience to work out all the kinks, but the pellet stove has saved us boatloads on heating expenses.
Last year (exceptionally cold winter here) we burned five tons of heating pellets. (a full pallet of pellets is a 2000 pounds, 50 bags at 40 pounds per bag)

It's about time to price a winter's supply of heating pellets and go buy them. The equipment I use for hauling Kubota tractors serves well for hauling pellets. I can haul two full pallets on my big trailer
and an additional half ton in the back of the pickup truck.

In the past, we've burned the 100% hardwood pellets from Canada. This spring at the conclusion of the heating season, we tried the hardwood/softwood mix pellets from Tractor Supply.
Our pellet stove, a Lopi AGP pellet stove, is rated to burn ANY grade of heating pellets. I didn't see any difference at all in the $400 per ton all hardwoods pellets, compared to the $300 per ton hardwoods/softwoods mix pellets. Pellet stoves are forced draft (fan exhaust) and have no damper, so creosote buildup from reduced draft doesn't appear to be a problem as it can be in a traditional wood stove with a damper in the exhaust stack, and draft reduction controls on the front of a traditional wood stove.