If you can contact the previous owner and just ask if there’s a secret....you said there was a video if it working properly...he/she may have the quickest and cheapest answer

Reread the OP....though I saw video but it was an understanding it was working...either way

Sorry you opened the wall.

When the regulators and tee was removed, did the plumber extend a length of wire or solder or something into the gas line to physically confirm the red ball valve was open?

Can you see the WH teeing off the supply line before the yellow valve and underground branch? Is there a union after the yellow valve before it drops underground which you might crack open to take a sniff (you'd hear the sssss of gas escaping)?

Are there any flagstones outside the garage wall which might conceal a pit, where another valve might be located?

I guess a valve can fail, but it still sounds unlikely.

quote:

The path that continues past the water heater goes about 15 inches, makes a 90 turn, goes out the exterior wall, does another 90 down towards the ground, goes a couple of inches, hits a valve (yellow) then goes about 12-15" into the ground (presumably heading across the back yard to the BBQ).

Sounds like you can see what is presumably a pressurized line. The pipe runs thru the wall, and the yellow valve is outside?

Try something simple first.

Open both line valves, and both burner valves as wide as they go. Leave them open and wait a good 5 minutes. Then see if you have gas.

If you closed the valve at the garage after it was last used and the gas in the line to the BBQ slowly leaked out since then it may take a while to get gas back to the burner.

Going to go for a walk with the wifey. Will report back with pictures and further investigation.

quote:

Originally posted by cgode:
If you can contact the previous owner and just ask if there’s a secret....you said there was a video if it working properly...he/she may have the quickest and cheapest answer

Reread the OP....though I saw video but it was an understanding it was working...either way

Ah, I must have been unclear. We know it was working when we bought the house. The previous owner does not now know why it isn't working.

Gas Meter. Nothing exciting in here. No user serviceable valves or controls. Ignore the random timer box that's not plugged into anything.




Pressurized gas line coming down an exterior wall at the back of the garage, near the water heater. Right side photo is exterior wall, left side of photo is garage side. You see the split here that goes left to the water heater.



Same as the last, better view of the split off to the left to the water heater. Not much room to move the camera around.



Tilting camera down about 45 degrees. More of the pressurized pipe, for continuity.




Continuing to tilt the camera down, to show the bottom of the pipe and the 90 degree turn out to the exterior wall.



Showing the gas line going to the water heater. It appears that the split off to the left 2 and 3 pictures up is connected to that yellow line. You can see the hole in the drywall. I made to shove my phone in to take pictures. Shooting pictures up and left from that hole.



Just outside the water heater. Use the door from the last picture as reference. There's the yellow ball valve. Confirmed with tape measure that the 90 degree turn from 2 photos back matches the exit pipe coming out of this wall.



Here's a shot showing the gas line (yellow valve) out to the BBQ island.



Here's a photo of what's underneath the island. Ball valve, T split, and a regulator to each direction.



Here's the offending BBQ, and the cabinet opening.

quote:

Originally posted by Woodman:
Sorry you opened the wall.

No problem. I can patch drywall. It's the plumbing that worries me. Thanks for all of your help.

Also, thanks to everyone else replying as well!

quote:

When the regulators and tee was removed, did the plumber extend a length of wire or solder or something into the gas line to physically confirm the red ball valve was open?

He actually removed the valve, showing a completely open pipe sticking up out of the ground ending in a 90. Stuck the sniffer device right up to it, then I cycled the yellow valve back by the garage. Nothing.

quote:

Can you see the WH teeing off the supply line before the yellow valve and underground branch?

Yes, see pictures below.

quote:

Is there a union after the yellow valve before it drops underground which you might crack open to take a sniff (you'd hear the sssss of gas escaping)?

Yes, it there appears a union that can be manipulated with a pair of channel locks. Before I do that, will I need anything on hand to close it back up? Pipe dope, teflon tape, etc.

quote:

Are there any flagstones outside the garage wall which might conceal a pit, where another valve might be located?

None that I have noticed, but, I will re-examine thoroughly in the morning. It appears that my patio is all concrete.

quote:

I guess a valve can fail, but it still sounds unlikely.

I'm not a plumber, but man, this whole thing is perplexing.

quote:

Sounds like you can see what is presumably a pressurized line. The pipe runs thru the wall, and the yellow valve is outside?

Correct. From what I can tell, gas traveling down the pipe can make a turn to the water heater, or continue on outside where it encounters the yellow valve before heading underground.

And, in case anyone is wondering why I don't just call a plumber...

I did. And the guy was stumped. I'm hoping to chase down the problem to 1 or 2 remaining likelihoods, and have another plumber come out to diagnose.

If it's a problem with the valve, I'll likely pay to have it fixed.

If it's a problem with the line under the concrete, I'll just ignore it until I get around to other backyard upgrades. I may abandon the bbq island altogether and do something fun like a wood fired oven or the like. I use a charcoal grill mostly anyway.

quote:

Originally posted by Aeteocles:

Is there resistance on the valve handle when turning it or does it feel like it turns freely?

Crack the union below the yellow gas cock and see if there's gas pressure there.

Got'cha. Red valve was completely removed from pipe. I can see the smear of dope at the elle.

quote:

Originally posted by Excam_Man:
Is there resistance on the valve handle when turning it or does it feel like it turns freely?

Crack the union below the yellow gas cock and see if there's gas pressure there.

Maybe two pair Channellock or a pipe wrench to hold back on the house side of the union. Yes, yellow valve may have boogered. Gone Davie. How unlikely is that!

From what I can figure.... Here is what I would do first...

turn the red valve under the grill off... then take all that loose under the grill... all the way back to the valve... then turn the valve on and see what happens....

My first thought was there was a turn off somewhere before it goes under ground .... but you say no...

Making the assumption the plumber does not know what he is doing... here is another thought.... did any of the other gas appliances get replaced before you moved in? If so that long line to the grill could be full of air and it takes a while to bleed a line ....

See if his helps. Your brand DCS, seems to have a gas safety valve and thermocouple according to this. When you turn the knob to on, can you push it in (spring loaded)? Instructions to check in links.

http://www.grill-repair.com/dcs-safety-valve.html

http://www.grill-repair.com/bl...nd-other-gas-grills/

This message has been edited. Last edited by: 220-9er,

When the plumber "sniffed" it did he have it open for a while?

If not I still suggest leaving it open for a good bit of time. Then see if you can smell gas coming out of the burner.

If you had the valves closed and the lines leaked empty and are now full of air it will take a while to purge the air and get gas there.

Takes nothing, but 5 mins to try it.

I had a gas valve at a customers house that the stop on the handle was broken and the gas valve handle was not positioned correctly
when in the on position. Had to take off the handle to ensure correct position (on)
Spiders sometimes will build webs and plug up orifices in outdoor grills, causing problems as well.

quote:

Originally posted by Excam_Man:

quote:

Originally posted by Aeteocles:

Is there resistance on the valve handle when turning it or does it feel like it turns freely?

Crack the union below the yellow gas cock and see if there's gas pressure there.

I'm not a plumber, but this would be me next step ^^^

Sorry if I missed it, does the WH work if so you have gas to that union where it splits to the WH then the Grill.

My suggestions would be

1) Contact old owner, ask him if he shut the gas to the grill off or if there is some trick, perhaps with the valves or a hidden valve.

He may have turned it off for the first time in a long time and the valve is now stuck inside, not opening when you turn the handle.


2) Contact Company either gas or plumbing or grill service company that works with this stuff all the time. Your plumber might be versed in shit flow and not gas flow.
They will send someone out to work on the gas line. Let them pop the union, check the valve.

While they are checking it out replace the valves with 1/4 turn valves makes it easier and quicker to shut off if needed.

Even if you tear out the BBQ, having a gas line to a fire pit would be helpful in starting fires vs rubbing two sticks together in the dead of winter...

quote:

Originally posted by Excam_Man:

quote:

Originally posted by Aeteocles:

Is there resistance on the valve handle when turning it or does it feel like it turns freely?

Crack the union below the yellow gas cock and see if there's gas pressure there.

This. If you have gas you'll smell it right away. You are only running 2 psi +/-. If you're good there then go to the point where the the gas line comes up by the bbq before the valves to the regs and do the same.

Just looked more closely at your pics of under the bbq where the pipe comes out of the ground.

If you have gas by the house at the union then crack each of the flex lines coming off the regulators. Usually regulators must be oriented like the one on the right.

This begs another question as I'd imagine the bbq is already regulated near the burner controls, I'd like to see what's behind the burner panel. I'm not exactly clear what your other appliance is.

Regs fail regularly and those both look pretty weathered.

Update, cracked the union just before the pipe goes into the ground. Heard the hiss, can smell the gas.

So we've got gas just before the pipe goes underground.

I'll order some pipe dope and remove all of the fittings under the island and go one by one to see what's up.

I have replaced the regulator on my gas grill several times a summer before. They are cheap Chinese crap. They die for no reason. Wonder why they sell for 14$ at the bbq section of Lowe’s. Multiple brands but they appear to be made with the same crap quality.