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Yesterday I replaced a front porch traditional spool style post (5"x5"x8ft nominal), and now I need to replace all of the 2x4 railings and ballisters. My question is, should I use a kiln dried pine or pressure treated 2x4s for the upper and lower rails rails ? My thinkikng is the kiln dried select grade would be easier to work with and (possibly) give me better cuts and fits without subsquent shrinkage, but the pressure treated pine would last longer. When finished I'll be cauking all joints and painting everything with a semi gloss or eggshell exterior latex. So what is conventional practice in this situation for pros who typically rebuild these structures for their customers, or what have you done in the past that worked out good for you? Lover of the US Constitution Wile E. Coyote School of DIY Disaster | ||
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semi-reformed sailor |
Kiln dried won’t warp or twist like new PT. You’re gonna paint it anyway, might as well have it look good too. My last house had a porch with railing and I had to paint it after moving in because the wood just sucked in the paint. I found the builder hadn’t primed it. I got a small spray job from lowes and it was done in an hour and a half. Buy good paint. "Violence, naked force, has settled more issues in history than has any other factor.” Robert A. Heinlein “You may beat me, but you will never win.” sigmonkey-2020 “A single round of buckshot to the torso almost always results in an immediate change of behavior.” Chris Baker | |||
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Member |
no matter how well you paint and caulk the untreated will rot. Use dried treated lumber. My Native American Name: "Runs with Scissors" | |||
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Member |
For railings, you would be much better off in the long run using something along the lines of cedar or redwood. They won't warp & twist like PT, can be painted or stained immediately, and very rot resistant. | |||
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Member |
Depends on what look you are going for. Do you need to match existing? Lots of new composite railing with aluminum ballister kits available for < $100.00 per 6 ft section. These come in a few colors and may last better. So much pressure treated nowdays has dimples and does not make a good handrail. It usually needs to dry out several months before painting and I have not had good long term results with painting even after waiting. If there is some overhead protection, the kiln dried pine may last fairly well afer painting. I have seem some trex type decking laid over wood for hand rails. | |||
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As Extraordinary as Everyone Else |
I’m a big fan of using synthetic materials. Buy once, cry once, enjoy forever. ------------------ Eddie Our Founding Fathers were men who understood that the right thing is not necessarily the written thing. -kkina | |||
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Member |
Blume is right, if you’re going to use wood - go with KDAT which is “kiln dried after treatment”. Regular white lumber will rot no matter how much you paint it. Cedar is another option. | |||
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Member |
I know this isn't the materials you asked about, but I'm really happy with the vinyl-clad aluminum I had installed 16+ years ago. Some minor sun-fade developed over the years. I don't consider it noticeable unless you're really looking for it. Only maintenance is some washing each spring. No splinters, painting, caulking, cracking, nail/screw pops, etc. P229R - 9mm Kahr PM9 | |||
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Is Doug Fir in that same family of rot resistance ? Or is Douglas Fir more rot resistant than spruce or untreated pine ? Lover of the US Constitution Wile E. Coyote School of DIY Disaster | |||
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