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thin skin can't win |
I'm hoping y'all can point me towards a source or suggested solutions to help with this. Posted on a couple boat forums as well, but this group is pretty creative.... The thin-walled rubber tube connected to my speedometer has developed a small split in it behind the dash and, of course, water shoots out of it when underway. I/O Mercruiser setup on a bowrider. The redneck in me eyed duct tape, but I need a better fix than that.. The split is about 6-8" from speedo and about an inch in length so I can't just remove, snip and reattach. It looks like I can snip free enough of the bundling to be able to splice in a piece of tubing if I could find something less than 25' rolls online AND a nipple that would fit properly. Would the size reduction of going through a nipple affect the flow in such a was as to make the readings on the speedo off? Any suggestions on a source? I'm open to other ideas as well. I'd rather not pull new tubing all the way from the stern, but if that's the answer I guess it is. Worst case scenario, can I detach the tubing at the inside of hull somewhere so it pumps water into bilge instead of the storage compartment if I had to use like this for a weekend? Without sinking the boat, preferably.... Had the trim gauge replaced last fall, not sure if this is a by product of them yanking that around in the area or that I've never blow this line out for storage. Who knew?! TIA You only have integrity once. - imprezaguy02 | ||
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Shorted to Atmosphere |
Can you disconnect the tube from the gauge and run some heat shrink over the split? | |||
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is circumspective |
[snip]Would the size reduction of going through a nipple affect the flow in such a was as to make the readings on the speedo off? [/snip] I've been on a lot of bass boats & have never seen a speedo that matched the GPS, including my own. I plugged the tube when it began to leak. "We're all travelers in this world. From the sweet grass to the packing house. Birth 'til death. We travel between the eternities." | |||
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| thin skin can't win |
An interesting idea. My concern would be the margin between shrunk enough to grip and shrunk enough to obstruct water flow to speedo would be verrrrrry thin, and if I cut off the water I've disabled the speedo. Solves the leak, but not the problem. This tubing is super thin walled, from the feel of it. Nothing like heater tubing or similar in an auto application. I may well be overthinking this. Probably just start with some regular 1/8" tubing and a couple barb couplings, put that in a loop between the connection to speedo and the non-split section downstream and see how far off the speedo is. If way off, can plug/pinch off. You only have integrity once. - imprezaguy02 | |||
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| Ammoholic |
I’m going to go out on a limb here and guess that a boat speedometer works like an airspeed indicator in an airplane. If so, it works off pressure, not flow. I doubt that a small restriction going through a nipple would affect it. I’d guess most boat speedometers are rough approximations anyway, so it may not be perfectly accurate to begin with. Having a relative idea of your speed may be good enough... | |||
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Member |
When installing, I used to leave some extra at both ends so owners could cut off the end and still have enough to reattach. Usually the issues would happen right at the connection. That said, if it split once, it may just be old and may split again. I've been out of the game for a long time, but my suggestion is to buy the full length of tubing and replace what you have. Might have to re-caulk if the tube goes through the transom. Steve Small Business Website Design & Maintenance - https://spidercreations.net | OpSpec Training - https://opspectraining.com | Grayguns - https://grayguns.com Evil exists. You can not negotiate with, bribe or placate evil. You're not going to be able to have it sit down with Dr. Phil for an anger management session either. | |||
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| Member |
A plastic hose barb to hose barb nipple will not effect accuracy or anything. There already is one on outboards where you connect to the outboard tubing. If the tubing split once (and it wasn't from chafing) it will split again. If the boat is over 5 years old, I'd change the entire tubing personally, you could try using a hose barb to hose barb and hook the new tubing to the old and try to pull it through. But you could try splicing it. Use a small zip tie on each hose connection to act as a hose clamp. The tubing can be bought in shorter lengths and most boat dealers or mechanics will probably have a short piece laying around they'd give you if you stop by one. It doesn't have to be the same tubing, you could use the clear fish tank style tubing as long as the I.D. is the same to splice. (I'd use the factory stuff if replacing the entire thing). I might have some, I'll look. | |||
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Optimistic Cynic |
The tubing described sounds a lot like the tubing used in drip irrigation systems, 1/2" and 1/4" I.D. IIRC. They also have butt connectors, etc. This stuff is pretty cheap from multiple on-line vendors. | |||
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| Peace through superior firepower  |
jimmy, how many days of the 60 has it been? Man, you need to start thinking. How many days has it been? It hasn't been 60 days, so why do I see you posting in a nn-gun thread? ____________________________________________________ "I am your retribution." - Donald Trump, speech at CPAC, March 4, 2023 | |||
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| Member |
Depending on the age of your engine, another option might be switching to Mercury SmartCraft gauges. You can then get all the engine information in either digital or analog format depending on which displays you select. You can even have your speed come from a link to a GPS (if you have one installed) rather than the pitot sensor. | |||
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| Member |
I’m not sure how many days it has been, other than it has been a while, and I cannot find the posting to figure out what date you stated the 60 days. I deal with the OPs issue often in my business and figured I’d help the OP out. I most likely have a roll of the proper tubing sitting on a shelf in my warehouse, if I have the time to look for it and can find it sometime this week. I’d ship it to him for free. | |||
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| Peace through superior firepower |
For fuck's sake, man. OK, mark his on your calenday- Today, June 19th, 2018. Make it 60 days from today. Next time you pop up inside this 60 day window and I ask you how long it's been and you say "I don't know", we'll restart the clock again. Think you can remember now? 60 days, jimmy. Stop dickin' around. Mark it down, do the time and get past this. ____________________________________________________ "I am your retribution." - Donald Trump, speech at CPAC, March 4, 2023 | |||
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| Member |
Ok, I marked it down on my calendar and will not post in the lounge for 60 days! I found the entire new transom mount assembly and 25' of tubing in the factory packaging that will fix the op's problem and emailed the OP directly offering to ship it to him for free. It's pretty ironic, considering that none of the other posts will fix the OP's issue. Cannot heatshrink speedo tubo. Cannot install smartcraft gauges as there is not a smartcraft harness for them and the harness is big bucks. etc. etc. | |||
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| Member |
Jimmy, I did specify that the age of the engine matters for SmartCraft compatibility. OP didn't mention how much he might be willing to spend, so "big bucks" may not be an issue to get a solution that works and doesn't squirt water under the console. | |||
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Member |
[Sentence deleted, not my place to comment] Cut the split out and patch it with a double ended hose barb. You should be able to find such a barb in an auto parts store with the vacuum hose stuff. Use zip ties to secure. Easy peasy. There is no flow in the pitot tube unless its not connected to the speedo, only pressure, so no worries about restriction. I'd plan on replacing the entire pitot tube at some point though as it is no doubt brittle. Especially if you boat in salt or brackish water, you don't want salt water spraying in hidden places at any time. Personally, I just disconnected my pitot speedometer and use speed over ground on my sonar. If i needed speed though water to judge, current I'd add an electronic paddle-wheel style speedo sensor. Edit to add. If you just want to be done with the pitot, I'd disconnect it outside the boat on the drive (or the separate pitot if you have one). No need to leave it hooked up and pump water into your boat. | |||
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| thin skin can't win |
Thanks to all. I'm going with the patch as a temp solution while the boat's in water, will pull new tube down the side of hull if I'm feeling it in the fall when on a trailer. Fresh water only, BTW. SmartCraft would be awesome, so too would be joystick steering. On a 2004 Bryant 214 bowrider, probably overkill though we do love the boat! The only time we need speed as a reference is pulling skiers, and I use my phone then anyway. If the patch doesn't work I will terminate back near transom and motor on until replaced. You only have integrity once. - imprezaguy02 | |||
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| thin skin can't win |
Wanted to thank Jimmy for taking the time to send me a detailed email and to ship me replacement tubing and small ties. Realize him posting in the thread created issues for him and more trouble for para, but do appreciate the help and parts. You only have integrity once. - imprezaguy02 | |||
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