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Ammoholic |
PS if any part of wire is exposed out doors then you must use UF or SER or even better pipe and THHN. If the wire goes straight through wall in inlet box Romex is fine, just apply caulk behind box before screwing to wall. If not going into drywall I run it inside of liquid tight where exposed to protect from damage. It's actually a quick install and a fair electrician shouldn't charge more than $400 to install and educate you on loads as long as you supply materials. Just make sure the actual electrician sent has installed and sized generators previously if you go that route. With 6,000w you should be able to run more than you think. Large number of lights, fridge, gas/propane heat or room or two of baseboard heat. Couple window A/C units. When you need hot water, just remember to turn off everything unit it's hot except one or two lighting circuits. Fridge is fine to be off for a little while. If you are on well you can do same process for well pump as well, including leaving on fridge and more lighting circuits. Generators with watt meter on them help for figuring out exact combos that won't over load generator. Jesse Sic Semper Tyrannis | |||
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Member |
Gas for hot water. I usually leave the well pump on and if stove is needed I turn the pump off. Other load is a couple fridges and a freezer and furnace. | |||
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| Not as lean, not as mean, Still a Marine  |
Skins, I'm going the interlock route, have all the components for 30a except for the wire. I have a 40ft run from the side of the house the generator will be on to the panel. Questions: 1) what is the gauge wire I'll need for a 40ft 30a run? 2) would it be beneficial to run wire capable of 50a, one case of upgrading the plug and breaker in the future case of bigger generator? Or is going to big on the wire a bad thing? 3) if yes to 50a wire, what gauge wire would I need then? Appreciate the input! I shall respect you until you open your mouth, from that point on, you must earn it yourself. | |||
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| Member |
Just a couple of comments as I have followed this discussion. I go on generator power way too often. I have both a full house transfer switch and a generac 6 way transfer switch. On the full house I can use about 20 more amps of my generator capacity than on the generac due to the plug type and obviously run various other loads. Obviously the cheapest answer for a new install is one of the load center transfer switches and then manage the load. What you can run will totally depend on what kind of loads you have like if you have gas hot water and cooking versus electric. But there is not a chance in the world my wife could manage the load balancing necessary to actually use the whole house method at my house. She does completely fine in transferring to generator via the generac panel. She can easily start the generator and flip the 6 switches. That for me runs the well pump, furnace, refrigerators and basic home lighting. I have a 10K generator but struggles with the startup load of the well pump on the 30amp connector so keep that in mind if you have a well. I'm not always home and unless you have someone competent there load switching is potentially problematic. And the risk is blowing up something important. To the above question it doesn't cost much more to run wire for the future, it doesn't hurt anything and I would do it. On 30A I used #10, On 50A I used #6 but of course that really depends on wire type involved. All FWIW> “So in war, the way is to avoid what is strong, and strike at what is weak.” | |||
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| Ammoholic |
Jesse Sic Semper Tyrannis | |||
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| Ammoholic |
This is both a positive and negative I listed earlier for pre-built Manual Transfer Switch (MTS). If it were crucial for power, or user ease, suggest a ATS (automatic) with properly sized genset, and proper load shedding. Essentially idiot proof the setup, which coincidentally is required for standby with ATS. A interlock kit setup requires some education and discipline. In the past I have make stop light panel schedule for customers. Red = large load, plus fridge and one lighting circuit. Yellow = medium large load. 3, 4, or 5 additional loads based on customer specific set up. Green = use without care. Jesse Sic Semper Tyrannis | |||
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| Member |
I would wire it for a Hubbel marine 125v/30 amp cord. Cord is waterproof and about $70, can buy the female end and waterproof cover plate and install it in an outdoor box and good to go. | |||
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| Member |
Huh? It makes no sense to run a 125v connection to a panel. Sorry not following you. “So in war, the way is to avoid what is strong, and strike at what is weak.” | |||
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| Not as lean, not as mean, Still a Marine |
Skins, That stoplight idea is pretty much what I'll be doing for the wife as well. Want to take showers? Hit the blue circuits (well pump, hot water heater, furnace, bath lights and fans) Want to cook? Red circuits (kitchen, fridge, microwave, furnace, well pump, no hot water, no oven) Want to relax, turn on green circuits (whole house for lights, tv, radio... No well pump, no hot water) My panel is actually laid out fairly balanced for generator usage, and luckily I had the first 2 slots on both legs open for my backfeed and interlock setup. Both the furnace (fha oil) and well pump are 115v and on their own dedicated 15a circuits. (Neither draws more than 8a at start-up) Ruining a 5500w Generac portable now, but debating on upgrading to a 8500w in the future, thinking that would negate the need to regulate circuits (ie just leave the hot water heater on) I shall respect you until you open your mouth, from that point on, you must earn it yourself. | |||
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| Member |
I'm assuming the 30 amp he is mentioning is 120 volt. You're right that it could be 240 volt too. Hubbel and Marinco both make 50 amp/240 volt cords that are waterproof with waterproof ends, along with the associated plugs on both sides, so if you're moving a generator outside and want a cord that is waterproof and made for outdoors and a plug on the side of your house that the cord end locks into it is a nice way to go. | |||
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Drill Here, Drill Now |
Your assumption doesn't make sense: Ego is the anesthesia that deadens the pain of stupidity DISCLAIMER: These are the author's own personal views and do not represent the views of the author's employer. | |||
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thin skin can't win |
This approach is what we took when installing in our prior home. It meant we had to self-govern what we did actually turn on when on the generator, but we also could use pretty much anything other than a/c as long as not all at once. You only have integrity once. - imprezaguy02 | |||
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Sabonim |
I found this Briggs & Stratton panel at Tractor Supply for $99.00. Someone had purchased it online and returned it to the local store. The panel can be wired for 115/220V. I use it with my Honda EU2000i. The Honda is a bit small but has served us well for several hurricane induced power outages. The microwave and Keurig must be run independently, so some load management is necessary.   Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, in a cloud of smoke, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming, 'Wow! What a Ride! ~Hunter S. Thompson | |||
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| Member |
  does anyone know if there is a way I can replace this master breaker with a transfer switch? | |||
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| Ammoholic |
Is that a Zinsco or Sylvania panel? If so you should consider replacing it. http://www.ismypanelsafe.com/index.aspx Jesse Sic Semper Tyrannis | |||
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| Member |
It is a Bulldog 'vacumatic' safety switch. Is there a product out there that I could replace it with that is also a transfer switch? I got one of those 10k generators and would like to run a cord up to this spot and plug in. I don't use a bunch of power, i only have one large fridge, chest freezer, small fridge an pumps for hot water heat. One large LCD tv and some puters. | |||
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| Member |
You're right. What I am saying is since it is a portable generator, you could wire both ends to accept WATERPROOF hubbel marine ends (on the generator and an outlet on the wall of your house) and use a WATERPROOF hubbel marine (or marinco) 240v/50amp 50' marine cord and move the generator anywhere you want within 50', coil up the cord when you're done and store it in your garage along with the generator and it would cover you for up to a 12,000 watt generator without having to dig up your yard and run wires, conduit, or anything. If I were to dig up my yard, I'd run #6 or even #4 wire so in the future if I upsized the generator, it's already covered......for example a buddy of mine came across one of those big diesel generators on it's own trailer that powers a bunch of lights for road work for $2000 at a government auction, it has a built in 80 gallon fuel tank and puts out a ton of electricity and burns 1 gph.........I think it was a 28 kw but forget now. | |||
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Member |
Does anyone have any experience with the Generlink Meter Mounted Switches? When the funds are available I'd like to update our service to 200 amp, and install an outdoor mounted transfer switch. But, I have neither the funds nor the time right now. Nor the need either. Though expensive to purchase, this seems to be the easiest install and use with Skins Stoplight method of power management for the wife. Nick "I cannot imagine any condition which would cause a ship to founder. I cannot conceive of any vital disaster happening to this vessel. Modern shipbuilding has gone beyond that." -Capt. Edward Smith | |||
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| Ammoholic |
Pushmatic/Bull Dog are safe from failure/fire standpoint. Downsides are hard to tell when breaker is on/off, high replacement cost for failures or additions. I usually only recommend replacing them if more space is needed or if there is corossion inside. You will need a SERVICE RATED double pole, double throw switch. Jesse Sic Semper Tyrannis | |||
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| Ammoholic |
If replacing panel, cheaper to just install interlock kit. There is nothing wrong with these, you do need to contact your power company and make sure they allow them. Jesse Sic Semper Tyrannis | |||
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