My MS250 has been cutting up 4-5 full cords of wood a year for over 9 years now and still going strong with just basic maintenance.

quote:

Originally posted by fritz:

I'm not aware of a Stihl 262 model. There is a 362 model.

Yes typo, but I think someone had mentioned a 361, thats what I was meaning to refer to.

quote:

Originally posted by bigdeal:
Even a chick can run the saw

I don't know if I would be more afraid of the saw or the chick!

quote:

Originally posted by cparktd:
I don't know if I would be more afraid of the saw or the chick!

Griffon Ramsey -- an artist who uses saws to carve her wood projects. She knows a thing or two about chainsaws. But she doesn't carve with a Stihl 880 logger's saw with a 59" bar.

In one video I've seen, she was using a Stihl 261 to make the initial wood cuts.

In this day of uncertainty in retail sales
Maybe get three or four chains if they are available.

cparktd -- Some thoughts on chains, as I just did my mid-week chain sharpening for next weekend's cutting.

My battery powered Ego sawchain has smaller teeth and a narrow kerf. I belief this contributes to good cutting ability from from motor that produces noticeably less horsepower than from gas saws. The chain is pretty new, with maybe 5 or 6 full five amp hour power uses. Only a slight touch up of the teeth was necessary, even after consuming the power of 2 batteries. I did not let the chain hit any dirt or rocks.

Over Christmas I hit a couple of hidden rocks with 2 different Stihl chains -- it took quite a bit of grinding to properly resharpen those chains. I'm currently using a really old Stihl chain on my Stihl 310. It's a green semi-chisel with both a raker and a bumper between the cutting teeth. The chain doesn't cut as quickly as my yellow full-chisel chains, but it stays sharp fairly long and the bumpers make for very smooth cutting.

A super sharp full-chisel chain can bite into wood quite hard, causing the saw to jump up and down, and to vibrate more. This is especially true in old and/or hard wood. Many of our old dead pines have lower branches that are just full of pitch, and are seemingly hard as nails. This chain with rakers and bumpers cuts these branches very smoothly.

To partially offset the speed of semi-chisel tooth cutting, I file my rakers to a little lower depth. My raker gauge is the standard .025", but I file rakers/bumpers to something around .027". My chains cut pretty well with minimal pressure, but I can pressure the bar to cut with greater authority. And with the bar buried to the full 16" length, with enough authority to bog down the engine.

All this means that you can cut pretty well with a semi-chisel chain, just not quite up to the level of a full-chisel chain. IMO a sharp chain set to the proper cutting depth is more important than the type of chain. Well, at least for those of use who aren't felling monster trees in the Pacific NW. Nevertheless, I have only yellow full-chisel chains for my Stihl 400.

There are many types of sharpeners. Of course you can always have a nearby saw shop sharpen them for you. Pricey, but the good shops do really good work.

You can buy an electric grinder. My B-I-L has a relatively inexpensive one that works quite well. Just takes a little practice to set it up correctly. I'm seriously considering one of the larger Oregon electric grinders, as it appears my credit card purchase points will get me one for free.

I'm currently using a Timberline sharpener, and touching up chains every week or two. The Timberline jig does a great job of maintaining the 30 degree tooth angle. It's not so great for repeatedly sharpening the teeth at the same & optimal height & depth. There's definitely a learning curve with the Timberline. There are other sharpeners on the market, too.

quote:

Originally posted by old dino:

quote:

Originally posted by American Pit Bull:
My fav saw, by far, is my MS361..
I keep an 18" bar on it 95% of the time.

Stay in the "Pro" grade saws and step down to a MS261, if weight is a concern.

Little off topic ... but is your muffler stock or modified ? My small local Stihl shop suggested I should mod the muffler on my MS 361 but after doing so he would not be authorized to work on it.

Modified to dual port.
It made a notable difference.
Any shop should still "work" on the powerhead.. Warranty work is a different story.. But there is no reason that they shouldn't service it for you.

I have a MS-362 that I bought 6 years ago. It's been cutting 5-6 cords of firewood a year, plus all the other routine and emergency property needs. It replaced a smaller Stihl that I had for years.

Get a couple or three extra chains.

I have mostly all Still outdoor power tools. Saws, weed whacker, and hedge trimmer. It's what all the pros use around here, and the dealer is only 2 miles away.