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Framing nailers, school me on 30 degree and/or/vs 21 degree nailer?Go ![]() | New ![]() | Find ![]() | Notify ![]() | Tools ![]() | Reply ![]() | |
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I'm wanting a frame nailer, just to add to my tools around the house. I do some 2x work here and there and usually use screws. But there has been a few times I'd would have just like to nail the project together. It'll be a battery one since I already have a well stocked platform. What's the diff between the degrees as far for what use they usually are used for? Thanks " like i said,....i didn't build it, i didn't buy it, and i didn't break it." | ||
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| Savor the limelight |
30 degree gets into tighter spaces, but use clipped head nails which may or may not meet code depending on the nailing schedule. | |||
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| As Extraordinary as Everyone Else |
Yeah the more important question is are you going with full head nails or not. Code used to require full head nails or more nails for a given space if I remember correctly but after a few tool demonstrations where the companies let my framing guys try them for a week we went to a full head nails and didn’t look back. ------------------ Eddie Our Founding Fathers were men who understood that the right thing is not necessarily the written thing. -kkina | |||
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| Member |
I'm not framing a house. Just 2x projects around the house. Maybe down the road build an outdoor shed. " like i said,....i didn't build it, i didn't buy it, and i didn't break it." | |||
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| Member |
ITs funny I do some framing here and there but never really took into account the degree. I own a pneumatic Paslode f350. Its been an awesome nail gun over 20 years. Anyway I feel the degree issue might have to do with getting into tight spots while framing. Another aspect is the angle of the nail sent into the two pieces of wood. Should get more from a 30 degree. Let all Men know thee, but no man know thee thoroughly: Men freely ford that see the shallows. Benjamin Franklin | |||
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| Member |
When I was building out my shop, I bought a close-out Bostitch 18v 21* framing nailer. I don't think I would have been able to 1-hand hammer the girts in & screws would have cost about as much as the nailer, but much slower. As mentioned, 21* can use full-head (FRO - Full round offset) nails (vs clipped head). They are more harder to find & more expensive. I bought it based on price (it was barely more than a pneumatic, with battery), but I wouldn't sweat the angle much if I were in the market. I'm sure there's a code and it WILL matter if you're doing hangers & such, but FRO vs Clipped won't make a difference if you are banging 2x lumber together. Hangers have special needs anyway, a hammer & palm nailer are probably better suited for DIY - though I did 'tack a few down' with the 21* on my deck.... The bostitch is discontinued, for a reason. It works, but the flywheel-style is slow to ready & recycle. I have an annoying number of partial hits that leave 3/8" of the nail out. Might be acceptable with 3.5", but a lot of 2.375" as well. You have to be very slow, very deliberate and you'll still get some that just don't drive right. It works for my limited use, but if I had to do it over again, I'd go pneumatic, or better yet, borrow a higher-end one. It pains me to say that as someone with the motto 'never pass up an opportunity to buy a tool that costs more than the job'... I have a buddy that's used it on side job remodels and has the same opinion - 'good enough to borrow'. I have a 5-gal bucket with various nails for it, I usually end up with more than when it left with him, so I'm good with the arrangement. | |||
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Framing nailers, school me on 30 degree and/or/vs 21 degree nailer?
