quote:

Originally posted by r0gue:
I'm working on a contact that knows of a 91 Miata with 31k miles that may be available. It's a few states away, but maybe worth the flight. The guys is said to be meticulous, so it sounds cherrie.

NO IDEA how I could/should value such a unicorn. -- Pointers there?

At least, I've no idea on one with a manual transmission. If it had an automatic, I'd have no problem valuing it.... $0.00 .

There are currently 2 on autotrader with under 30k on them for $6k & $12k.
A few things that can drive the price up, does it have a hard top included? Condition of the soft top, is it original? If so it likely has the plastic rear window. Also, does it have the optional LSD?
If it's as clean as it sounds, I'd think in the 5-10k range, if it's not one of the special edition cars. I think for 91, the SE was a British racing green with tan interior.

Definitely agree about your valuation on an automatic.

Edit: Also, a 91 will peobably be a big nose crank & avoid the engine issues (can't recall the exact small nose issue) that the 90-early 91 cars had.
https://www.miata.net/garage/crankshaft.html

This message has been edited. Last edited by: P250UA5,

quote:

Originally posted by tatortodd:

quote:

Originally posted by RNshooter:
http://www.motortrend.com/news...he-downshift-240445/

You can thank me later

Bruce

Flyin' Miata has been doing V8 retrofits for years in Miatas. The problem is you need to own a Miata then give them $50k

Considering the attention to detail it looks like a bargain. This is on my bucket list.

Despite the girly image, Miatas are wonderful, cheap to mod, durable and rewarding to good drivers. And the flyin miata turbo kits are a national treasure.

Do it, if theres any doubt there is no doubt. Buy a miata and thrash the living hell out of it.

quote:

Originally posted by r0gue:
I'm working on a contact that knows of a 91 Miata with 31k miles that may be available. It's a few states away, but maybe worth the flight. The guys is said to be meticulous, so it sounds cherrie.

NO IDEA how I could/should value such a unicorn. -- Pointers there?

At least, I've no idea on one with a manual transmission. If it had an automatic, I'd have no problem valuing it.... $0.00 .

What state? ROAD TRIP!

[QUOTE]Originally posted by r0gue:
I'm working on a contact that knows of a 91 Miata with 31k miles that may be available. It's a few states away, but maybe worth the flight. The guys is said to be meticulous, so it sounds cherrie.

NO IDEA how I could/should value such a unicorn. -- Pointers there?

At least, I've no idea on one with a manual transmission. If it had an automatic, I'd have no problem valuing it.... $0.00 .[/QUOTE

Automatic Miatas take a $ hit and usually take forever to sell. Look in the for sale section on Miata.net really low mileage NA's(90-97) bring close to $10k or at least are advertised for that much. The NB is really a better all around car. I am 6ft and the difference in interior room between our '93 and our 00 was huge.

quote:

Originally posted by DoctorSolo:

quote:

Originally posted by tatortodd:

quote:

Originally posted by RNshooter:
http://www.motortrend.com/news...he-downshift-240445/

You can thank me later

Bruce

Flyin' Miata has been doing V8 retrofits for years in Miatas. The problem is you need to own a Miata then give them $50k

Considering the attention to detail it looks like a bargain. This is on my bucket list.

Despite the girly image, Miatas are wonderful, cheap to mod, durable and rewarding to good drivers. And the flyin miata turbo kits are a national treasure.

Do it, if theres any doubt there is no doubt. Buy a miata and thrash the living hell out of it.

The turbo kits seem like a lot more bang for the buck. If I wanted a $60-65k vehicle with a Corvette motor I'd just buy a 2017 Z51.

What's this worth? Tires need replaced (original) but it looks very well kept and has maintenance documented in a little notebook since 2010. I believe it is a two owner car, and it has a clean carfax (for whatever that's worth).

2008, 26k miles, Miata Sport, 5-Speed.

What I'm coming up with on KBB seems unrealistically low. But then again, maybe the dealer is just too high. What would you say this is worth.

I'm going to say 10-12k from a dealer. $9-10k from an individual. It's an almost 10 years old car likey only cost $20-22k when new. I do like his body style a lot more than the older ones.

On a side note have you looked at the Pontiac Solstice or Saturn Sky? I have seen some great deals on low miles cars. Most of the parts are standard GM so I didn't think that's an issue.

This should give you a ballpark idea. Cargurus has the one you listed at about $2000 above market value.

https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/...tDirection=undefined

I agree ..... I came up with $11,300 on NADA without a discount for tires and no adds or subtracts.

It is the fastest color, too.

The low miles would certainly help seal the deal for me.

Mike

I should have mentioned, they came down to $13k from $15k.

quote:

Originally posted by Dusty78:
This should give you a ballpark idea. Cargurus has the one you listed at about $2000 above market value.

https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/...tDirection=undefined

Actually, thanks! That seems to indicate that $13k isn't far off actually. Most of the carguru IMVs seems to hover around $13k for a similar car.

But those listed at $13k are likely more like $11.5 - 12k when all is said and done. I would tell them $13k if they replace the tires. Have you driven one in manual? I tried a few and my knee would hit the steering wheel when shifting. It was annoying. I had the same issue with the first gen Z4.

quote:

Originally posted by Dusty78:
But those listed at $13k are likely more like $11.5 - 12k when all is said and done. I would tell them $13k if they replace the tires. Have you driven one in manual? I tried a few and my knee would hit the steering wheel when shifting. It was annoying. I had the same issue with the first gen Z4.

Michelin Pilot Sports are $571.96 installed (4 tires, disposal fees, and installation) at Costco so I wouldn't give them $1000-$1500 for them.

quote:

Originally posted by tatortodd:

quote:

Originally posted by Dusty78:
But those listed at $13k are likely more like $11.5 - 12k when all is said and done. I would tell them $13k if they replace the tires. Have you driven one in manual? I tried a few and my knee would hit the steering wheel when shifting. It was annoying. I had the same issue with the first gen Z4.

Michelin Pilot Sports are $571.96 installed (4 tires, disposal fees, and installation) at Costco so I wouldn't give them $1000-$1500 for them.

That's the dealer tax right there.

I think for the money this one is a good deal. Hard top, touring package with better wheels, one year newer, etc...

https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/...ed#listing=179664158

quote:

Originally posted by VBVAGUY:
1st Generation Miata's are inexpensive, inexpensive to maintain, and easy to maintain. God Bless

+1. In 1999 I bought an 11k mile '94 for about ten grand. I added a Flyin Miata turbo kit to it, along with an upgraded clutch and an aluminum radiator. This kit took the car from ~90hp to approximately 220 (wheel) horsepower, in a 2400lb car. All-in it was maybe $21k.

I sold the car in 2010 with 125k miles on it for $4000.

In the intervening time I had to perform major maintenance on *nothing*. I had to put a battery in at one point (!). Never any issues with the motor, AC, alternator, convertible top, cruise control, stereo, or anything else.

The entire time I had it I was shredding tires, getting tickets, and pissing off F-body guys. More than once I lip-read someone saying "What the * fuck*?!" in my rearview. It was stupid fast, cheap as shit, super robust, easy to work on, and flat out fun. I did tons of HDPE at Waterford Hills, Mid-Ohio, and Gingerman, always driving it to and from the track.

The only complaint I can level is that the wheelbase is so short that with the extra juice it could be a twitchy handful. Some people like that; I'd rather carve a graceful slidey arc (RX7 style) than have to work fast to gather it up from sideways.

The early cars don't look as cool as any of the others mentioned, but none of the other cars mentioned are as simple or cheap. Make your choice and pay your money.

I couldn't fit in the Miatas I tried, not tall but long torso, was looking directly at the windshield frame.
Leased a 2001 S2000, loved it but not very practical. Bought a used 2005 (AP2) S2000, I've put about 20,000 miles on it, now has 46,000 miles. Dead solid reliable, incredible fun in the twisties. The AP2, by the way, is far more comfortable; softer suspension, less likely to break loose and leave you butt-first in the weeds; more torque.
BTW there is no auto available for the S2000. It has the perfect manual shift and steering, chassis is very rigid.
This car was made to be a roadster, meant to be run at high rpm's.

I love Miatas. I had a 2003 for a couple of years. I think $11,500 would be fair for the Miata you listed.
These cars are bullet proof for the most part. Only reason I don't currently have a Miata is that my
six kids (and their mother....) like to make fun of me getting out of things like a Miata.
Granted, I'm 6'2", but the only issue I had was the problem with my knee getting caught
in the steering wheel against the driver's door while driving "in a spirited fashion".

I hope to get another Miata before I'm unable to drive. But, I may need some type of waiver before
my family allows me this pleasure.

sjtill,

Regarding the "more torque" of the AP2 over the AP1, here are the specs:

AP2 (2.2 liter F22C) 240hp @ 7800 rpm vs AP1 (2 liter F20C) 240hp @8300 rpm
AP2 162 lb-ft @ 6500 rpm vs AP1 153 lb-ft @ 7500 rpm

The additional 9 ft-lbs of torque (6%) at lower rpm of the AP2 isn't really a whole lot and with the gear ratio changes and associated shift points could be argued as to which engine-tranny configuration is best. Of note too is that of the approximately 110k S2000s produced worldwide during its 10 year span, only US models starting in 2004 got the AP2 F22C bowing to pressure from the US drivers addicted to "muscle car" torque. The rest of the world preferred and stayed with the 9k rpm AP1 F20C. Remember the appeal of these convertible two seaters has never really been about power or torque but rather pedal to the metal curve carving! A big reason why the Miata has had such a following for years

My AP1 has been tweaked and cranks closer to 255 hp. I've driven an AP2 as well as some supercharged and turbo modded S2Ks. I'm very happy with my naturally aspirated 2003 (fitted with a MUZ Whiteline front swaybar #BHF48 -- 30mm solid spring steel, 50% stiffer than stock tubular 26.5mm) which, along with the more aggressive Honda UK spec AP1 4 wheel alignment*, improved handling significantly reducing oversteer. There's nothing quite like the sound of 9k rpms through racing exhausts!

Oh and for those comparing curb weights, my '03 S2000 hits at 2810 lbs.

* And for reference, the (AP1 only: better handling at the cost of reduced tire wear) UK/Euro alignment specs are:
front caster: 6.45° front toe: 0.0° rear toe: 0°20" per side (0°40" total) front camber: -1.0° rear camber: -2.0°

AP1 or AP2, that 9k & 8k red line makes for some fun driving.
Only other 'similar I know of is something like an RX7/8; without jumping the budget to something like a GT350.

If you advance to the point of buying new tires for it, and are interested in putting on 'summer' sport-performance, consider the Toyo Proxes T1 R's.

When I had my Miata, I went through four or five sets of these (actually, the preceding model, which was the T1 S). The Toyo was one of the most preferred tires at the time of the performance minded drivers.

Yep, they are expensive and they're going need replacement every 30K or so, or sooner depending how big of a grin you plaster onto your face pretending to drive like Michael Schumacher (get better Michael!), but if you want to wring out the driving performance from the car as it is designed to do, then putting on your choice of performance rubber is the way to go.
__________

quote:

Originally posted by Cookster:
If you advance to the point of buying new tires for it, and are interested in putting on 'summer' sport-performance, consider the Toyo Proxes T1 R's.

When I had my Miata, I went through four or five sets of these (actually, the preceding model, which was the T1 S). The Toyo was one of the most preferred tires at the time of the performance minded drivers.

Yep, they are expensive and they're going need replacement every 30K or so, or sooner depending how big of a grin you plaster onto your face pretending to drive like Michael Schumacher (get better Michael!), but if you want to wring out the driving performance from the car as it is designed to do, then putting on your choice of performance rubber is the way to go.
__________

He lives in the greater Pittsburgh area.... For pot hole season I suggest tank treads. When I lived in Pittsburgh I blew 3 low profile tires in one year. Potholes are no joke and tar and chip is not your friend.