Nearly 20 years in Ohio will do a number on a vehicle no matter how hard you try. Especially since they started using the salt brine pre treatment crap.
I had the rockers done last year as they had perforated both sides. Had full rockers and cab corners (not the slip on patch panels) done. Had truck bedliner sprayed on the new sections and then body color matched the paint hoping not to have the rust issue in the future.
My mother uses the truck in the winter as she did not have a 4wd. Well last winter the parking brake cable snapped so she took it in. Rear brakes on these Silverados are prone to rust as well and were in pretty rough shape so she had new parking brakes, rotors, pads, calipers, hard lines, and soft lines done. So pretty much the entire rear system done.
I have the truck for the warm weather months and now likely pretty much all the time now that my mom bought an Explorer a couple months back.
I make a number of trips to our cabin which is about 100 miles away so I had some free time the other day and have been checking things over.

And I come across this



The backing plates have completely rusted and are pretty much gone and the parking brake hanger/bracket are flimsy as all go get from rusting. These parts should have been replaced when they had everything else out being replaced. Now, I get to tear it all down to do it.
Which brings me to the part name question any idea the name of the bracket/hanger that holds the parking brake cable and the brake line?
I am not finding that particular part anywhere and don’t think sandblasting and repainting will leave me a very strong part.

So here is the list of what I need to do thanks to rust:

The backing plates and whatever that bracket/hanger may be called.
The spare tire is stuck under the bed. I am not sure it has ever been down. The spare wheel is rusted beyond belief so a new spare wheel/tire along with the tire hoist will be swapped out as well.
Going to pull the bed (should not be too bad as it was just off for the rocker and cab corners. Going to do a Raptor Liner spray in bedliner myself in the bed and the complete underside of the bed.
With the bed off I’ll have lots of access to the frame and rear end so I am going to clean up the rust and use Eastwood Rust Encapsulator and then paint over it with their underbody black paint.
I used it with excellent results on the surface rust on the underbody of my Mustang.
Once I pull the bed I will evaluate the leaf springs. Found US made Lear’s from Michigan Truck Springs for $165 each. Foreign made are $85 each will evaluate the hangers and shackles and likely replace those and U bolts.

Not rust related but but simple maintenance and upkeep:
All new fluids, differentials, transfer case, transmission, coolant, fuel filter.
Tires and shocks.

Outside of that should be all good to go.
School is getting ready to start in a few weeks so Monday’s from 8a-2p I’ll be hammering out as much as I can and hope to be done by the time weather turns cold.

From now on all my vehicles are getting coated with Fluid Film every September in prep for Winter hoping to keep the rust away as best as possible.

One family/owner 2000 Silverado Z71 with 96k miles. Looking forward to my boys learning to drive in this truck. At 5, 4, and 2 they love to ride in the truck. Unfortunately at the moment all 3 can’t ride in it at once.

Maybe look up parking brake hardware kit on rockauto and see if it looks like your pieces.

quote:

Originally posted by Oz_Shadow:
Maybe look up parking brake hardware kit on rockauto and see if it looks like your pieces.

Great minds think alike and actually already did that but could not locate that bracket.

LMC Truck should have some of the parts:

http://www.lmctruck.com/chevrolet/

Did you ever index your plugs?

Hey, looks like these could be what you are looking for:

Backing Plate (GM part number 19178786) Right or left. $18ish?
Flex Hose 2X (GM part number 19366712) This has the bracket made onto it for $37 or so.

If these aren't the parts that you are in need of, I can try to dig deeper to find some other part numbers.

Sharp truck, keep her rolling. These are pretty cheap to get parts for compared to modern ones. I inherited my Dad's 2003 and use it as a spare/hunting/hauling truck as the extended cab will hold all the kids, but the car seat shuffle is tight and gets old. Our 7 yr old son has proclaimed it will be his truck some day. So far I've put new headlights in, a double DIN stereo with Bluetooth and backup camera, and a deer got me a new bumper and grill. I had a shop put in new belts and new rear brakes, rotors and calipers as a rear brake was dragging.

quote:

Originally posted by .38supersig:
Hey, looks like these could be what you are looking for:

Backing Plate (GM part number 19178786) Right or left. $18ish?
Flex Hose 2X (GM part number 19366712) This has the bracket made onto it for $37 or so.

If these aren't the parts that you are in need of, I can try to dig deeper to find some other part numbers.

Those are the correct backing plates (technically) but I am going to use the aftermarket two piece plates. If you use the original design single piece plate you have to pull the axle to put them on.

That flex hose is for the drum brake model and does not hold the ebrake cable just the brake hose.

quote:

Originally posted by Scuba Steve Sig:
Sharp truck, keep her rolling. These are pretty cheap to get parts for compared to modern ones. I inherited my Dad's 2003 and use it as a spare/hunting/hauling truck as the extended cab will hold all the kids, but the car seat shuffle is tight and gets old. Our 7 yr old son has proclaimed it will be his truck some day. So far I've put new headlights in, a double DIN stereo with Bluetooth and backup camera, and a deer got me a new bumper and grill. I had a shop put in new belts and new rear brakes, rotors and calipers as a rear brake was dragging.

I have 3 in car seats and none are big enough for me to put in the front seat even though I can turn of the airbag.

I did all new speakers and single din headunit with backup camera 2 years ago. The 2000s don’t fit a double din without some major backing to the support frame of the dash.
I have since found a single din unit with a 10” screen that I am going to get.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0...2Fitm%2F362695329923
Bigger screen and will just use my phone as a hotspot as the unit has all the android apps built into it. Also has Bluetooth for calls.
Also did new fog lights as the covers had gone away and new A/C.

My 2002 had rocker rust in Virginia. It was a design defect on this vintage. Foam filled rockers holding water.

Black,

I tried to navigate the online dealers last night and gave up in frustration, I know where I needed to be and what to look for but could not find it. (if that makes any sense the way I explained)

Either FB message or Email the last eight of your VIN, I still have a couple of friends in a store that will look up the part numbers and check availability. That last one is getting extremely important, GM as well as other manufacturers are discontinuing the older slow moving parts. The last build of that platform was midseason 2007 so it's getting there.

I check my emails through the day but I don't see messages on FB until I get home from the H-D dealership this evening.

Page 120 shows the parts you need:

http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/ce/t.aspx?Page=120

Something else you need to address is your rear axle specifically the tubes. Several of my buddies are currently fighting the rust where it's eating through the tubes. Replacement tubes and complete rear axle assemblies are available, but they're not cheap. If you still have good metal to work with, use a rust killer and then your choice of paint. I've used good old Rustoleum in the past and would do so again. Not the spray cans; I brush it on.

Repeat after me - rust free southern truck. What a headache.

I have a 2006 GMC 1500 4x4 beater that doesn't have a spec of rust on the undercarriage. I could probably get big money if I shipped it north and sold it there.

quote:

Originally posted by 41:
LMC Truck should have some of the parts:

http://www.lmctruck.com/chevrolet/

Did you ever index your plugs?

Thanks for the LMC link I forgot about them. Ordered a print catalog. Browsing the .pdf was making me googly eyed.

Have not indexed them yet.

quote:

Originally posted by 4MUL8R:
My 2002 had rocker rust in Virginia. It was a design defect on this vintage. Foam filled rockers holding water.

Correct Sir.
Coupled with the pinch weld only allows moisture to get in.

quote:

Originally posted by Oldrider:
Something else you need to address is your rear axle specifically the tubes. Several of my buddies are currently fighting the rust where it's eating through the tubes. Replacement tubes and complete rear axle assemblies are available, but they're not cheap. If you still have good metal to work with, use a rust killer and then your choice of paint. I've used good old Rustoleum in the past and would do so again. Not the spray cans; I brush it on.

Yes, the rear end will be scaled and be given the Eastwood rust treatment.
I too prefer the brush on. Cheaper is the main reason. I get a can or two of the spray for really tough to reach spots.

quote:

Originally posted by bubbatime:
Repeat after me - rust free southern truck. What a headache.

I have a 2006 GMC 1500 4x4 beater that doesn't have a spec of rust on the undercarriage. I could probably get big money if I shipped it north and sold it there.

That would be the plan when buying used.
Gramps bought it brand new with no rust 20 years ago can’t quite help the road salt and salt brine situation here.

I will be treating all my vehicles with Fluid Film yearly from now on to help cut down on the rust.

Shovelhead was able to locate me the part number for the bracket but it is a discontinued part.
He also located it at an obsolete parts supplier. So I need to get in contact with them too see how much they cost.

I found a full set of stainless steel hoses from Summit Racing that appear to include the bracket.
The Silverados are plagued with a soft pedal and the SS lines are supposed to help substantially.
If I can confirm with Summit the bracket is correct I may just spend the $150 and upgrade all the hoses.

The on line page can be increased in size by clicking on the individual page.

You will have a hard time getting the bolts loose even with an impact wrench. I would spray the bolts good with Kroil several times over a week period.

I assume you have replaced your brake lines. Also the rubber line connections since they will balloon out when the brakes are applied.

Liquid salt is worst than regular rock salt since it fuses the parts together.