I would like the input from anyone who has done or has the experience of putting down gravel or gravel driveway. I'm thinking about just tilling up the area leveling it out removing any grass possibly putting down weed mat I don't know if it's completely necessary then tamping down one layer of gravel lot of time to get it 2 to 3 inches deep. Does this sound sufficient or is there a better way or something that I missing?

Your first layer needs to be larger than 3/4 - 1" gravel. It gives the smaller gravel something to lock in to.

What about crusher run ? It self packs as you drive on it and becomes very stable. Its dusty at first.

run the compactor on the soil, then add a layer of woven or heavy non-woven geotextile fabric between soil and first layer of gravel.

I'd be thinking more like 6" total in gravel depth...

I was told you have to put down two layers; the first is finer crushed stone or gravel and the top layer is "modified"? Otherwise it will all just get kicked and pushed out.

It really depends on the subsoil and what your driving or parking on it. If it is firm clay then you would probably be ok. If it is softer and or your are driving/parking extra heavy stuff on it then you will probably need to dig it out a little deeper (think 8-10") and put down a layer of #2's the 53's. My barn drive we put down 8" of 2's then 3" of #53"s. After 2 years top dressed w/ # 8"s. When I added a parking tray for my aluminum trailer I scraped off the topsoil and layed down about 4" of 53's.

What Mark a said. The first course must be larger to build a base. Smaller stuff will just get driven down through the subsoil and you'll continually be adding stone to top dress.

First make sure the drainage is worked out.If water wants to go across the top or under you'll be repairing it regularly.
A big heavy roller, the heavier the better will be good too.

I have experience doing acres and acres of gravel the proper way in oil & gas roads and pads.

At minimum, take off the top soil. It's shit for load bearing and the cause of many long-term maintenance problems. If your top soil is less than 12", then I'd take it down 12".

Run a compactor until you obtain 95% compaction

Put down 10' wide to 12.5' wide woven polypropylene geotextile not 3' or 4' wide landscape weed barrier. Max sure geotextile covers bottom and edges of excavated area.

Split your gravel depth into two components:

Crusher gravel. This will get good compaction but is tough on tires.

Pea gravel. Doesn't compact worth a shit, but is easy on tires. Keep this to 3" maximum.

Have crusher load(s) delivered. Spread and compact.

Have pea gravel load(s) delivered. Spread.

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Ego is the anesthesia that deadens the pain of stupidity

DISCLAIMER: These are the author's own personal views and do not represent the views of the author's employer.

quote:

Originally posted by kent j:
What Mark a said. The first course must be larger to build a base. Smaller stuff will just get driven down through the subsoil and you'll continually be adding stone to top dress.

This ^^^^^

I just hired someone to enlarge the parking and turnaround area at my daughters house last week.

He suggested, and did, exactly what I was thinking it needed...
1 load of 1 1/2" base down first. Then 1 load of 3/4" spread over that.

THEN... next year or so, after it has settled and packed, if needed or desired, we will add another layer of 3/4 or perhaps crusher run.

I paid $465 for ~20 ton of rock including him spreading it with his bobcat.

Former highway design engineer and airfield pavement engineer here. For a residential driveway you need about 6" of crushed road base aggregate. Do NOT use round stone, it will not stay in place. This varies from state to state so check with your local gravel supplier for what is common in your area. The most important work you will do is prepping the soil. Obviously, cut down about 6" and remove this material, compact it to at least 95%. If you want to go the extra mile, mix about 5% cement or lime (non-agricultural type), till it in the soil before you compact it. This will make your soil lock up hard, like concrete. Then place geotextile fabric followed by your aggregate. Make sure you overlap the fabric by at least a foot. The fabric is only to keep the soil from migrating into your aggregate. If you treat the soil as I noted above, you won't need it. When spreading the aggregate, do it in 2, 3" lifts and compact each. The best advice, compaction, compaction, compaction from the bottom up.

Dont till up nothing,rent a wackey packer.
[Get the one with about a square foot pad.]
pack the area you plan for the gravel.

Depending on your soil it will go down a few inches with the wackey packer.
Put your barrier material and spread your gravel then re pack.
You will thank me long after I am gone.

Ballast stone is an excellent base if you have excavated 6" or more below grade on your driveway. This is the stone used by railroads , then add crusher run over the ballast.

I don't like using clean stone (eg pea gravel , etc) on a driveway, because it will not stay in place. Even a larger graded clean stone (#57) tends to move with traffic.

The only problem with crusher run, is the fine aggregate tends to stick to your shoes, you may track it inside your house.

But all this depends on the vehicles using your driveway, heavy vehicles such as tractor trailers, etc, would call for at least 12"+ depth base, in order not to be mired up all the time.

Everyone has some good suggestions. I believe in curbs. You can use 6x6's with rebar driven in to the ground to help retain the stone.
I would dig down 8 inches. Put layer of 1 1\2 down first. Then quarry processed which is a mix of different size stones. Tamp each layer. Put the curb in and then get millings from the asphalt guys. You might get the millings free.