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HVAC - Residential Furnace - Burner not Igniting UPDATE: Fixed. UPDATE: Broken Again Login/Join 
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Picture of P250UA5
posted
Woke up this morning to a chilly room.
One of the units has an error code saying the burner isn't igniting.

Have tried power cycling the unit, runs for a moment & returns the same error code.

Not much labeling on the unit, no manufacturer labels Confused .
The model number on the cover panel for the circuit board is: TMLX080X16MP11B

Luckily the upstairs unit is working, so my kids' rooms are fine.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: P250UA5,




The Enemy's gate is down.
 
Posts: 16423 | Location: Spring, TX | Registered: July 11, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Tinker Sailor Soldier Pie
Picture of Balzé Halzé
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Bad igniter. Get a new one.

Call in for a service is my best suggestion if you want it working soonest.


~Alan

Acta Non Verba
NRA Life Member (Patron)
God, Family, Guns, Country

Men will fight and die to protect women... because women protect everything else. ~Andrew Klavan

 
Posts: 31211 | Location: Elv. 7,000 feet, Utah | Registered: October 29, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
The guy behind the guy
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Is it producing any flame at all or is it just the blower making noise?

If no flame, could be igniter or control board. If there is a flame, but then it shuts off, it could be a bad flame sensor.

Also, check where your vent comes out of the house. If an animal plugs up the exhaust or it's frozen over, the furnace will not be able to exhaust and shut itself off.

Oh, and the fuse, there should be a little jumper fuse on your control board. Check to make sure that didn't get fried.
 
Posts: 7548 | Registered: April 19, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Ammoholic
Picture of Skins2881
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Ignitor is good possibility, check for a glow when you hear it starting up.

Inducer motor or pressure switch is another possibility, check inducer is spinning.

Gas valve is yet another one.

Flame sensor is one more to check. Remove it and scrub with green pad (no water).



Jesse

Sic Semper Tyrannis
 
Posts: 21373 | Location: Loudoun County, Virginia | Registered: December 27, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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My water heater did this, igniter got red hot, would ignite a flame and then shut down 15 seconds later. Flame detector wasn’t working. Disassembled and cleaned the sensor with steel wool and was up and running again.
 
Posts: 2179 | Location: NC | Registered: January 01, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Update:

Flame sensor looked fine, pulled & cleaned anyway.

Igniter had some buildup between the elements, guess it was shorting it out.

Cleaned up the igniter & it's back to working.

Going to order a spare, just in case.




The Enemy's gate is down.
 
Posts: 16423 | Location: Spring, TX | Registered: July 11, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Update 2:

Downstairs at 67* again this morning. Guessing it was a temp fix in cleaning up the igniter.

Will be getting a replacement.




The Enemy's gate is down.
 
Posts: 16423 | Location: Spring, TX | Registered: July 11, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Skins2881:
Flame sensor is one more to check. Remove it and scrub with green pad (no water).


This^^^^^

Soot build up on the flame sensor causes it to not register ignition. Unit will turn off gas. Depending on unit retrys may be initiated.

This is a 2 minute fix. I clean the flame sensor every fall as maintenance.

Doh: didnt read your update.
Buy 2. Get ignitor and flame sensor. They are cheap enuff to have a spare sitting around.
 
Posts: 1117 | Location: New Jersey | Registered: August 16, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by PeteF:
quote:
Originally posted by Skins2881:
Flame sensor is one more to check. Remove it and scrub with green pad (no water).


This^^^^^

Soot build up on the flame sensor causes it to not register ignition. Unit will turn off gas. Depending on unit retrys may be initiated.

This is a 2 minute fix. I clean the flame sensor every fall as maintenance.

Doh: didnt read your update.
Buy 2. Get ignitor and flame sensor. They are cheap enuff to have a spare sitting around.


See the 2 posts just above yours....igniter is the problem.




The Enemy's gate is down.
 
Posts: 16423 | Location: Spring, TX | Registered: July 11, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Ammoholic
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You can test the resistance to see if it's failed.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=...OI_PplbaQxvMLKDh1_O_



Jesse

Sic Semper Tyrannis
 
Posts: 21373 | Location: Loudoun County, Virginia | Registered: December 27, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
Picture of P250UA5
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quote:
Originally posted by Skins2881:
You can test the resistance to see if it's failed.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=...OI_PplbaQxvMLKDh1_O_


Thanks, just picked up a new one $26 at a HVAC supply about 2 miles from my office.
Will put it in after work & hopefully all will back to normal.




The Enemy's gate is down.
 
Posts: 16423 | Location: Spring, TX | Registered: July 11, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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No surprise, you can't clean silicone carbide or silicone nitride igniters.




 
Posts: 10062 | Registered: October 15, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by PeteF:
Buy 2. Get ignitor and flame sensor.


No need to have a spare flame sensor. They don't go bad, unless you accidentially break the porcelain.




 
Posts: 10062 | Registered: October 15, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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