Our house was built in 2005, I’m curious about the windows.. or more specifically the big windows at the head of our bed. We live in the DFW area of Texas and can get some fairly nasty storms. Every time a decent storm comes through (this window faces west) it sounds and feels like it’s going to crash in on us. So far it hasn’t... maybe it never will, but I always get curious about replacing it/them when the spring storm season rolls around.

Any ideas? I know *nothing* about windows. Thanks!

If you want strength, you want (Dade county) impact windows (designed for hurricane winds. Upgrading to 7/16" glass instead of 5/16" makes a huge difference in strength for not much more money and they also have very strong window frames. I'd go with either PGT or SJW brand.

Google videos on youtube of them shooting 2x4's at the windows.

Good deal. Thanks for that

We have a house built in 1996. I’ve taken to just replacing windows ‘as needed’. It can depend on where located, which side, protection they may have while in place.

So far it’s been one large one on a Western wall. This window had issues from the start, it either had a small defect or installation was lacking. The warranty technician came twice over the years. It was replaced with an ‘infinity’ by Marvin a few years ago.

We have one or two next in line, smaller. Most of the others live an easier life, fine shape. I just don’t see reason to replace all of them if they’re doing O.K..

Here’s a good article on Security film for windows.

I’ve seen some windows that got broken when a tree fell into my buddy’s shop. He had some brand of security film on the windows(five foot tall by three feet wide). The film kept all the glass in one place(stuck to the film) and the glass was still in the frame even thought several branches pierced the film and glass.

We cut the tree into logs and removed the rubber edges of the window frames and took the entire 5x3 piece of broken glass to the dumpster.

I’d suggest you googling window security film.

Tinted security film serves double purpose for those of us in the South... Impact protection, as well as decreasing heat.

We installed it on our large west-facing master bedroom windows. It made a noticeable difference in the temperature of the room on hot sunny days.

Definitely worth considering for the OP's big west-facing windows in Texas...

I've toyed with the idea of replacing windows, since the house was built with single pane, many have been tinted with window film and that has reduced uv and heat to some extent.

Any consensus on manufacturers Anderson, Pella, we have a local New South Windows.

Thinking doing the south and west facing windows first, since that's the most exposed to sun and heat. Hope it will help keep the AC costs down this summer.

My in-laws were in the building supply business for many decades, and they swear by Anderson windows.

A friend recently had Magnolia Windows installed in his house. They’ve been very happy with them.

If you purchase new windows, try to get windows that are Energy Star V6 rated for your region. You may be able to get a tax credit for 2020 (IRS Form 5695), Residential Energy Credits, Part II (back side of the form), Nonbusiness Energy Property Credit. Might be worth looking into.

Those impact resistant windows do the job. Sure beats putting up plywood. They are expensive and the INSTALL is very important. Jimmy has it right on this one. The Security film is okay, but the windows still break.

Dry-Fly, you don't indicate the exact nature of the problem you are having with the windows and you didn't mention the type or configuration. So, all of the items I list below may or may not be applicable. You may also have a combination of one or more of them.

If your windows are vinyl and are a mulled combination or possibly a very large slider or hung window, if there is not some significant reinforcement done with aluminum (typically extruded) or steel (typically roll-formed) the windows will flex under wind loading. Mulled windows need the reinforcement in the mullion and hung\slider windows also need it in the check rails. Unfortunately, there is no way to add it after-the-fact in vinyl windows.

Windows can also start to rattle if the weatherstripping gets compression-set from heat, time, pressure, etc. You may be able to replace the weatherstripping if that is the case. The big box stores carry some replacement weatherstripping but if you need a lot, Strybuc.com is the place to look for bulk material for anything window & door related.

Also, the hardware that locks the windows may be getting loose and can be checked for snugness. Sometimes the keepers on the locks have slotted holes that will allow them to be adjusted for a tighter hold. You need to be real careful of fasteners in vinyl though, if the screw hole gets stripped, there is no good\simple way to fix the vinyl.

Impact rated windows are typically made to higher wind load requirements since that is the nature of the areas they are intended to be used. As a result, they are generally stronger (and thus "stiffer") for wind loads. Just adding impact glazing will not make a window impact rated without beefing up the entire system to handle the requisite structural loads. Also, be very wary of window installers and make sure you verify that any mullions are also "Impact Rated" or at least calculated to withstand the loads that the window can take. Typical impact certification only applies to the individual window, not necessarily to a field or factory mulled combination.

One little note on "Hurricane" windows, since I have been designing them for over 20 years as well as being involved in more than a few of the code committees writing the specs. Not counting ANSI safety, human detention, psychiatric care, Blast, or Ballistics; there are currently 4 primary certifications for "impact" rated windows for storm events. Dade County, Florida Building Commission, AAMA (now FGIA), and FEMA (via UL or ETL). (There are a few others like TDI, HP White, etc.). Regardless of the certification, there are only 2 primary sets of protocols for testing "Large Missile Impact" The first is ASTM E1886 & E1996 and the other is TAS 201, 202, & 203. The TAS (Florida HVHZ) protocols are really the ASTM "enhanced" tests but with only 2 different missile options to the ASTM's 5. (they both evolved from the old SBCCI 10-92 specification that came in the aftermath of Andrew) They all pretty much involve shooting a 2x4 at the window at a specified velocity and then doing positive-negative design load cycling (around 2500 cycles). Yes I have a 2x4 canon I play with from time to time, no it isn't magazine fed or breech loaded.

Ken

A couple of comments from a retired custom builder..

As Jimmy said hurricane rated windows and doors with a DP rating of 50 or higher are going to be the best from a storm protection basis. The question is do you need that in the DFW area? I would say no...If you get a tornado no window is going to protect you from a 200 mph shear wind.

A more manageable alternative might be getting a tempered window. You will find this type of glass in patio doors etc and will probably be half the cost of DP 50 windows...

As far as sun all the major manufacturers will sell something like “Sun 360” windows...A little known fact is that the window manufacturers don’t actually make their own glass. The glass for most of the majors like Pella and Anderson are manufactured by a privately held company called Cardinal Glass. They have about a dozen factories all throughout the country.

My personal preference in quality windows is Anderson but we have hung a lot of Pella, Marvin, Colbe & Colbe etc.

Just now checking in for the day, thank y’all for the info. I’m digesting it all! Frankly I have no idea what type of windows we have, they’re original to the house built in 2005. I agree that hurricane rated windows are not needed....I just know that every time we have a storm or light hail (which is quite common)..the noise and “feeling” that I get makes me afraid it going to crash in. I’ll try and post a pic of it in a bit.

I seriously doubt these pics will help at all, but..