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Nullus Anxietas![]() |
The pin isn't carrying the load, the ball, hitch, receiver, and the hardware connecting it to the vehicle are. All the pin is doing is keeping the hitch in the receiver. The force is all sheer force and the sheering surfaces are relatively wide. "America is at that awkward stage. It's too late to work within the system,,,, but too early to shoot the bastards." -- Claire Wolfe "If we let things terrify us, life will not be worth living." -- Seneca the Younger, Roman Stoic philosopher | |||
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I have always locked my hitch with a master lock hitch pin. But I do see many trucks with just the pin..always wonder why they aren't stolen more. Apparently, sometimes they are. Sucks but look on bright side. You can upgrade to a new one! | |||
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This one was just a little over a yr old. A Trimax fixed aluminum mount with a simple 2" ball. Had to get a new one back then, as I needed one which would raise the ball a couple more inches. I was able to pick up the same unit today at a nearby town. So I'm back in business, as soon as I mount the ball. | |||
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Res ipsa loquitur![]() |
^^^^^^ I do the same for my Tacoma. Pro tip, take it off every few months and check the lock. My last one rusted and I had to cut it off with bolt cutters. __________________________ | |||
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Never leave my hitch in. | |||
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Partial dichotomy |
I understand the pin isn't "carrying" the load and also aware of the friction of the downward weight of the load in the receiver, but the pin is "towing" the weight. This still concerns me. Obviously, it works. I was going to buy a spare pin. Noticed the Reece pins made in china. No thanks, I'll find an American made one. | |||
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The cross sectional area of a 5/8 pin is pi*(5/16”)^2=0.3”. There are two shear surfaces in the pin (both sides of the receiver), so the total shear area is 0.6”. The shear strength of most stainless steels is around 75,000 psi. 0.6”*75,000psi = 45,000 pounds. To put 45,000 pounds of shear load on your hitch pin you’d have to be able to do 0-60 in under 1 second pulling a 15,000 pound trailer. That’s not an exaggeration, that’s how the math actually works out. So basically, it’s fine. | |||
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^^^ cool facts! I've always wondered about that myself. Question, most pins are not stainless... so what about a regular ole pin? | |||
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I guess I hadn’t thought about it, they are probably mostly zinc plated or galvanized or chromed mild steel, which might be 2/3 to 3/4 the shear strength I used above. Some steels are also much stronger but there wouldn’t be any reason to use them and they are more expensive so I can’t imagine them being used. | |||
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Of all of the components of a hitch system, that 5/8" pin is the very last of my concerns. If there is a force sufficient enough to shear that pin, you've got much bigger problems you're going to have to worry about at that moment. | |||
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In Maryland, it’s against the law to leave your receiver and ball in place if they’re not in use. Sig P226 .40 S&W Sig SP2022 9mm RIA 1911 Gov't .45 ...and more | |||
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Savor the limelight |
I still managed to bend my Trimax SXT5 locking hitch pin. | |||
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Partial dichotomy |
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Well that is it's primary purpose after all.... ![]() Endeavor to persevere. | |||
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I have a B&W double ball adjustable height drawbar that retails for $349. I leave that in the garage. But, I do have a cheap drawbar for truck protection, and to help me see the rear ball with the tailgate camera as I back up. I like the idea of a Class 8 bolt as a shear pin. I'll see if I can find a smooth shank bolt with enough length to go through the 2.5 inch receiver, and then I'll double nut the threaded portion to a million pound-feet of torque to keep it secure. ------- Trying to simplify my life... | |||
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CAPT Obvious![]() |
I haven't towed anything with my truck yet, but I'm considering getting one for this very reason. | |||
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