I have a 2020 Honda CR-V that I want to drain/fill the transmission fluid on. Easy on my old 2014 with a conventional dipstick and info in the manual on proper oil and quantity.

From what I got on YouTube, it takes 4.5qts of a particular Honda fluid, which I bought and they also recommended measuring the drained quantity to ensure the same amount is put back in. Seems like a lot of guess work. And on this car, no dipstick to check level. WTH?

Any recommendations? Obviously they want the dealer to do this work.

It's kind of a pain but if you can accurately measure what comes out that should be the exact quantity to replace. I would drain into a new drain pan then carefully measure it as I transfer it to my recycle cans.

I used a transmission shop that was a BG products shop. By them doing it they could check the level and by using the BG products I got a warranty.

On my 2018 Civic which has the CVT, you fill it until the trans fluid comes out. It's a plug located on top of the transmission and under the air filter. It can be accessed by either taking the air filter assembly out or using a long neck funnel. I have done this twice and have not measured either time. I drain the CVT fluid, put the plug back in with a new crush washer and then fill until the fluid comes out.

Thanks for the comments fellas!

I'll look/research the check plug.

Only a small amount drains out.
You are supposed to do the drain/fill, then drive a bit and do it a couple more times.

I just include that with the oil change.
I just drain and top off when I do the oil.

It's been years since I've done a 3x3 on my old TL.

But, definitely make sure you can get the fill bolt loose prior to breaking loose the drain bolt.

The TL 5AT was a huge pain to do & luckily I had no issues with bolts (it was on it's 3rd 'glass' trans).

I think I read somewhere that transmission fluid draining should not use a vacuum method as it can damage the transmission.
Vac methods are fine for oil or cooling fluids.
FWIW

My Tundra is a “sealed” system. I watched a YouTube video about how to do it. It’s not complicated, but I had to buy some tools to do it and follow a procedure. In all it was cheaper and better than what the dealer would have charged/done. Now I can drain and fill any time I want far cheaper than dealer service.

I've used large plastic measuring bowls from Dollar Tree. Easy to determine volume that has been drained, then pretty easy to refill.

I'm curious that your maintenance schedule calls for replacing CVT fluid on a 2020 MY Honda. What's your mileage? Does is say replace all fluid or just drain and refill?

I'm leaning toward not using the overflow plug, but rather the fill the amount drained method. Besides, I have crush washers for the drain plug, but not a different sized plug. I also say this as it's hard to determine exactly which plug is the overflow plug.

I have a little over 30k on the vehicle. I probably should replace "all" the fluid, but figure if I keep up with a regular drain and fill...like I did on my '14, I'd be good.

quote:

Originally posted by smschulz:
I think I read somewhere that transmission fluid draining should not use a vacuum method as it can damage the transmission.
Vac methods are fine for oil or cooling fluids.
FWIW

That's been a long standing suggestion, at least with Hondas.
Everything I've read/heard says drain/fill, do [n]not[/b] use a flush machine.

But, I've never talked to anyone that actually had a trans failure from a flush machine.
The drain/fill is simple enough to DIY, just with a 3x3 that 2nd & 3rd drain is much less viscous & really hot.

You can search online for the logarithmic equation that determines the number of fill necessary to achieve a particular percentage of fresh trans fluid. For my Odyssey, it was 3.5 drain and fills to achieve 95% fresh trans fluid.

quote:

Originally posted by Russ59:
You can search online for the logarithmic equation that determines the number of fill necessary to achieve a particular percentage of fresh trans fluid. For my Odyssey, it was 3.5 drain and fills to achieve 95% fresh trans fluid.

Yep, on the 4 & 5 spd V6 autos, it was 3qts out 3 qts in, repeat 3x and you get pretty much all the old fluid out.

Not sure if the newer 9 & 10 spd V6 are the same & know very little on the Honda DCT & CVT.

Says the guys who’s F150 is in the shop getting anew transmission at 27,000 miles (glad it was under warranty)

quote:

Originally posted by P250UA5:

quote:

Originally posted by smschulz:
I think I read somewhere that transmission fluid draining should not use a vacuum method as it can damage the transmission.
Vac methods are fine for oil or cooling fluids.
FWIW

That's been a long standing suggestion, at least with Hondas.
Everything I've read/heard says drain/fill, do [n]not[/b] use a flush machine.

But, I've never talked to anyone that actually had a trans failure from a flush machine.
The drain/fill is simple enough to DIY, just with a 3x3 that 2nd & 3rd drain is much less viscous & really hot.

I’m not as concerned about the flush machine as I am about the solvents used in conjunction with them. I saw enough failures working in a GM dealership as a result of flush services, usually in a vehicle that had hit the 100k mark and was getting its first flush.

My rule of thumb was if the OEM offered a chemical in its service parts line its good to go. Third party flushes, nope.

The reason for the multiple fills and drain is to exchange the fluid in the trans cooler, lines, and torque converter if equipped. Usually less than half is in the sump. The shops that install the flush valve at the cooler can watch the color and keep pumping it in until it's fresh.

The current issue are the wide variety of different fluids in use and even the dealer gets it wrong. The AW4 in the Jeep Cherokee used Dexron but the dealers kept thinking Dodge ATF was standard and it caused issues. Even the guys on NAXJA were getting it wrong. Now Ford has 3-4 different fluids and the correct one for that model may not be stocked at your fav auto parts.

Things have not gotten easier.

quote:

The current issue are the wide variety of different fluids in use and even the dealer gets it wrong.

quote:

Things have not gotten easier.

Nope. It's getting so you can't do it yourself.
AND $30/quart!