Trying to haul an old, cheap Wal Mart bicycle out of the garage and "recondition" it for my daughter. This involved replacing inner tubes. But with a multi-speed bike this gets quite complicated. FINALLY I arrived at a website that tells me that I MUST break the chain in order to replace the tube. My questions are these: What size chain will a Wal Mart multi-speed bicycle have (Must size whatever breaker I order to fit the chain..... and (2) would someone please recommend a SPECIFIC chain breaker from a website like Amazon for me? (remembering to keep the price reasonable for the one time that I intend to use it)... Snap-Ons "Blue Point brand would be nice but would really not make sense for this one-time use. Please accept my sincere "THANKS" in advance for your input..... FRED

What? Separate a chain in order to change a tire inner tube? I never heard of such a thing.

Yeah, not sure what source is telling you to do that, but you should stop listening to that.

Remove the wheel from the bike and replace the tube. You shoud be able to remove the rear just my moving the chain around the cassette once the wheel is loosened from the frame.

Yeah, don't do anything that website says. You do not need to take the chain apart to replace an innertube. Just take the wheel off, move the chain off the rear cog and replace the tube.

Guys - please remember that with these "multi speed" bicycles it's NOT just as simple as loosening a chain and then moving the wheel up and away from the bicycle frame (God, how I wish that it WERE that simple)... And what really seals the deal is the fact that the derailer frame is secured to the bicycle frame mechanically. What I'm dealing with right now is trying to reposition the derailer frame and then reattach it to the bicycle frame while keeping the derailer frame from folding up on me (it is under spring pressure that keeps causing it to "fold up" on me - VERY frustrating). Again I say that I wish it were as simple as one of the old "coaster brake" bicycles were. And finally -> I am down to the point where it may well be simpler (and easier) to just cut the old chain, reinstall the derailer, and then lastly reinstall the chain (using a master link). And finally, FINALLY- THANKS to all who have taken the time and effort to contribute to my inquiries...... FRED

I'm with the above, no need to remove the chain to pull the rear wheel on any bike I've had, single & multi speed.
Not sure why the derailleur was removed, but if anything that should make removing the wheel easier.

Yeah, there are repairs that require chain breaking and removal, but changing a tire or inner tube is not one of them.

Turn the bike over, let it rest on the seat and handlebars. Then, while spinning the crank slowly, move the rear derailleur to the smallest cog (some gearing setups will require the front derailleur to be on an outer ring to do this). This will give the most slack to the chain, then loosen the axle bolts or, hopefully, the quick release and slip the wheel assembly forward out of the bracket. Easy Peasy. If you want to save yourself some grief, take the wheel to a bike shop where it is unlikely to cost more than about $20 for a new tube to be installed. That way, you won't be stuck with another repair when you get a pinch flat on your first ride afterwards.

The above assumes the common "10 speed" style gearing, if it is a "coaster brake" or "three-speed" details will be slightly different, but the changes in procedure should be obvious. Sometimes, slipping the chain off the front chain wheel helps to get some slack in the drive train.

Once you have the wheel off, this is a good time to clean and lube the chain and gears, and to check for play in the wheel bearings, also, it is a good time to closely inspect the spokes and wheel rim for abnormalities. Let the aforementioned bike shop deal with any severe rim dents, loose spokes, etc.

There are tools/jigs that are intended to defeat the tensioning spring in the rear derailleur, or you could jimmy something up with a short stake and some cable ties. Do not use a chain "master link" these will bind amd rub in the drive mechanism and ultimately fail, most likely when you are pushing hard to the top of the hill and you'll end up cracking your nuts on the top tube. There is a reason that consistent link chains are used on these types of drives.

WRT inserting the wheel past the derailleur, first attach the derailleur to the frame, then settle the wheel into the exposed chain (you can relieve spring tension on the derailleur slack take up with one hand while manipulating the wheel with the other), once the chain is engaged, only then try to slip the wheel into the bracket. It absolutely helps to have the rear derailleur in the far right (smallest cog) position, but isn't absolutely necessary.

I have 4 modern bikes, work on my bikes all the time, and former bike shop employee. I'm having a hard time picturing a setup where you need to break the chain to change a flat.

Put the chain in the smallest gear, closest to the outside of the frame. Unscrew the axle, and pull the wheel out. You can move the derailleur and chain out of the way, just pull against the spring, and move the chain to the outside out of the way.

It sounds as if you have already removed the derailleur from the frame. In that case, you probably should go ahead and "break" the chain to simplify getting things back together.

Here's a chain break from Amazon that says it will cover chain sizes for 7, 8, and 9-speed rear derailleurs (that would be 14, 16, and 18-speed bike). How many sprockets are on the rear cluster?

Link (heh)

The replacement chain, assuming you buy one, has to be the right thickness for the bike based on "speeds" or number of sprockets on the rear cluster. Amazon will steer you in the right direction.

If you are going to do this yourself, I recommend buying a bicycle repair manual off Amazon as well.

quote:

I have 4 modern bikes, work on my bikes all the time, and former bike shop employee. I'm having a hard time picturing a setup where you need to break the chain to change a flat.

Only setup I can think of is a track bike with a chain so short you can't slip it off the chainwheel.

quote:

Originally posted by pbslinger:

quote:

I have 4 modern bikes, work on my bikes all the time, and former bike shop employee. I'm having a hard time picturing a setup where you need to break the chain to change a flat.

Only setup I can think of is a track bike with a chain so short you can't slip it off the chainwheel.

Topic is about multi-speed bikes. Track/ velodrome bikes are single speed.

I've personally owned at least a hundred bicycles and seen thousands and not a single one of them needs the chain cut to remove the wheel. Release the brake to clear the tire (various methods) release the axle (various methods mostly likely on a cheap bike nuts) and remove the wheel forward and down. The dropouts (that's the part that interfaces with the frame and the axle will show you the angle you need to start.) Change tube and reverse.
It is truly NOT complicated and literally there is nothing to hurt while doing it.
If you are taking over maintaining bikes the sweet spot on tools are Park tools.

Do not believe every thing that you find on the internet u-tube.... Unless your set up is some off the wall built construction then breaking the chain should not be required......................... drill sgt.

Fellow bicycle nerd here, and I concur w/ hrcjon.^^^

Bicycle tires are much more susceptible to flats than car tires. Consequently, flats are an accepted fact of life for anyone who bicycles often. B/c of this, bicycles are designed for their wheels to be easily removed & reinstalled w/ a minimum of tools and modest amount DIY know-how. For anyone who has never changed a bike tube before, it is only slightly more difficult than changing an automobile's spare wheel.

Changing a rear flat on a bike should not require removing any derailleurs. It should not require a chain tool nor chain removal. Refer to Park Tool's website for assistance. It's chock-full of excellent maintenance tutorials.

https://www.parktool.com/en-us...query=&area%5B%5D=60

Could it be poor translation from the written instructions? Break the chain could be interpreted remove the chain from the front chainring.

But I'm with everyone else, never had to break the chain to fix a flat.

After looking at the old chain I have decided to replace it. Does this mean that I will have to "break" the old chain? Yeah, I'm being silly - but looking back at all the replies it strikes me that almost everyone has gotten "hung up" on "breaking" (removing) the old chain. I AM going to remove and replace the old chain - that's a given - so I never got "hung up" on that aspect. When I took the rear wheel off the bike there SEEMED TO ME TO BE NO WAY TO REMOVE THE WHEEL WITHOUT REMOVING THE DERAILER WITH THE WHEEL. I'm quite sure my approach was a result of inexperience, so now I'm wondering: Would it be possible to continue this discussion without more comments about NOT HAVING TO REMOVE THE CHAIN? Sorry, I truly am... It's just that fixations bother me after awhile. And FINALLY - ONCE AGAIN - I really do appreciate all the helpful comments. (Whaddayathink? Would this be a bad time to ask if anyone could tell me what chain "number" is on the bike?).....Thanks again...Fred

Measure the sprocket. Or measure the chain, or clean it and look for a number. You have the bike we don’t.

https://youtu.be/O0YibMDWBAw

Or take the chain to a real bike shop. They can match you up with the right one. At least they should be able to.

I never looked but bicycle chains don't have a master link?

quote:

Originally posted by jtedescucci:
After looking at the old chain I have decided to replace it.

Not sure how old that bike is but the chain on that bike may be much higher quality than the crap you might wind up with today.

When I had a particularly caked, nasty motorcycle chain as a kid in the seventies, I would clean it with unleaded and a stiff brush (off the bike, immersed in an old square Ramada Inn plastic ice bucket. After it dried I'd give it a good soaking with Bel-Ray chain lube. Wound up looking brand new.

I'd hold it up lengthwise to see how much it drooped. Once it got what I thought was too much lateral deflection, I'd get a new one. That's the only time I ever needed a chain breaker, to get the length correct.

What you should get are a couple of tire tools to get the tire off/on the rim. Don't use big flat blade screwdrivers. Great way to puncture your new tubes.

Following because I have been a bicyclist my entire life and have never needed to break the chain for any reason. Maybe some pictures would help.

If breaking the chain really is needed (doubt it) then I’m sure a master link would be used to make things easy.