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| Is it an old-style storm window? If so, the bottom is supposed to allow some drainage.
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| Posts: 2121 | Location: The Sticks in Wisconsin. | Registered: September 30, 2012 |
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| Caulk the shit out of it with 3M 5200. It won't leak and you'll practically need an oscillating saw to cut the 5200 out if you decide to change the window later. We use it on yachts and it is REALLY strong caulk. Make sure to tape both sides with blue tape so you have a nice edge. Caulk it and then smooth the bead out with a wet finger. Peel the tape carefully before the 5200 is dry. https://www.lowes.com/pd/3M-Ma...Sanded-Caulk/3020020 |
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semi-reformed sailor
| The 5200 Jimmy is talking about is an adhesive designed for marine uses...and it will never fail short of fire...don’t use that for what you need... W/o pics this is all conjecture..but if your are not gonna tear them out and start over, just use some silicone caulking and use a wet tool or a wet finger to push it into war you need it to go and then shape it so it will run water off and towards the exterior when it rains.
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| Posts: 11526 | Location: Temple, Texas! | Registered: October 07, 2006 |
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| quote: Originally posted by MikeinNC: The 5200 Jimmy is talking about is an adhesive designed for marine uses...and it will never fail short of fire...don’t use that for what you need...
W/o pics this is all conjecture..but if your are not gonna tear them out and start over, just use some silicone caulking and use a wet tool or a wet finger to push it into war you need it to go and then shape it so it will run water off and towards the exterior when it rains.
He is bedding a fixed window on the side of his house that never opens. 5200 is the perfect sealant to use because it will stick to old weathered/ half rotten wood (even if it's damp) whereas silicone will not. You can cut through 5200 with a razor knife if you need to remove it. It is not fun but I've removed and re-bedded dozens of deck hatches, port holes and everything in between that were put in with 5200. The OP most likely doesn't ever want it to fail as it's a window attached to the side of his house. If it was a narrow gap and the wood (or stucco) around it was good, by all means I would use silicone. |
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and this little pig said:
| Don't, don't, don't use spray foam to fill the gap. I tried this around a window (from the inside) and the stuff worked like a charm.... BUT, it became as hard as cement and put pressure on the window, enough so that once opened, I couldn't shut it. A couple hours of chiseling that stuff out and the window was usable again!!! |
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Fighting the good fight
| quote: Originally posted by odin: Don't, don't, don't use spray foam to fill the gap. I tried this around a window (from the inside) and the stuff worked like a charm.... BUT, it became as hard as cement and put pressure on the window, enough so that once opened, I couldn't shut it. A couple hours of chiseling that stuff out and the window was usable again!!!
Spray foam is fine to fill gaps around window and door frames. You just have to be selective about which spray foam you use. Some spray foam expands aggressively, and can put excessive pressure on the frame, as you discovered. Instead, look for a minimally expanding, flexible spray foam. These are often marketed as specifically for windows and doors, like so: https://www.greatstuff.dupont....or-foam-sealant.html |
| Posts: 33318 | Location: Northwest Arkansas | Registered: January 06, 2008 |
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| quote: Originally posted by Kevmo: Thanks for the input so far...I will try and post pics later but yest it is the inside of a fixed aluminum frame window.
5200 would bond perfectly if you want a permanent bond. Sikaflex 221 is also a good adhesive for what you're doing and sticks well to glass and aluminum and yacht builders use it for bedding large windows into aluminum frames. There are both VERY long lasting products and blow away any silicone or caulk that you'll buy at home depot when it comes to longevity. https://www.merrittsupply.com/...dhesive-and-sealant/ |
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