I've used bandsaws before, but never my own. I've inherited an old Rockwell 28-113, 10" 1/2 horsepower saw. It wasn't clean, but it seems to be in pretty good shape other than needing a new power cord and the blade is cracked at the weld.

I watched a video about adjusting the guides, etc., but I know little else. My immediate use for it will be cutting the rough shapes for a number of pinewood derby cars so I don't have to work with a bunch of six year olds and coping saws.

So, what type of blade should I get for it? And is there anything else I need to replace or worry about while I'm fixing this thing up? Any other tips also appreciated.

As a very rough guide, the curvier you want to make cuts, the narrower you want the blade to be. Higher TPI (tooth per inch) blades cut smoother but slower.

Be careful with blade tension, narrower blades need a lot less tension or they can break.

Keep the guides as low over the table as you can and still fit the piece you're working on under them.

Check if the wheels the blade turns around have tires and if so if they are in good condition.

Clean excess sawdust from beneath the table.

If the guides are bearing guides, make sure they soon freely and are lubricated.

You should be able to get a cheap $10 or $15 blade at Lowes but I prefer the Timberwolf Blades (available on Amazon). They cost about $30 to $35 and stay sharp longer.

Inspect your wood before cutting, a small nail will dull the entire blade in seconds.

If it has metal guide block, the wearable blocks will help the saw run quieter and keep the blades cool (heat damages the blades hardness).

Wide blades are good for straight cuts and resawing, narrow blades good for cutting curves. I normally keep 1/4" and 3/4" blades on hand.

Maybe not the info you were looking for, but rule #1 is don't touch the blade when it is moving. Last Fall I was in a hurry, did a simple cut before heading out for class. My mind was on the class material, not on the saw. Ended up 20 minutes late to class, with 8 stitches in the back of my finger. (The ER was very accommodating) No one to blame but me.

My neighbor and I have 14" Grizzly bandsaws. Not professional grade, we don't do fancy work, but for the money it does everything I need.

Good advice thusfar.

As long as the tires are in good shape, and they turn true, you're good. With the blade tensioned, and machine unplugged, turn it by hand. If it is silent, you're set.

Thanks for all the suggestions so far.

After cleaning it up, everything moves smoothly. The "tires" are intact, but they're a bit cracked (like an old serpentine belt), should I replace them?

Also, how do I know what length blade it needs? I found the manual online, but it doesn't say.

Fresh tires would likely keep it from becoming "unstrung" at some point in the future. Some band saws use the outer race of a sealed bearing to support the back edge of the blade. They're cheap and if yours is so equipped the grease is probably dried out or will be after some saw dust eventually gets into the bearing. We used to run four production units hard and always kept a supply on hand. If you can't determine the blade length by the model number then 2X the distance between the wheel shafts + the circumference of one of the wheels should give you the blade length. Don't crank the tension on the smaller blades up too high. There should be a spring tension indicator somewhere. The local library probably has back issues of some woodworking magazines and they all have how-to articles for setting up machines, clever projects, etc.

Try to remember that a moving saw blade can become invisible, but it will never forget to cut you. Use a paint stick to rake those slivers and chips out from around the blade even if it is turned off and coasting down. Have fun.

Over the years, I've learned not to try to make them into scroll saws. Yes, narrow bands are available, but the are dang fragile. I'm much happier staying with at least 1/4-3/8 bands at a minimum.

Mikestools.com and vintagemachinery.org are great resources for downloading manuals and garnering other information on older pieces of equipment. While overhauling my 1960's Rockwell drill press and 1940's South Bend lathe over the past couple of years, I found virtually all of the information I needed to do it right between these two sites.

not sure how big it is, but I remember having to throw the blade to uncurl it from the box- this was a 4 foot diameter blade. I didn't get my wrist out of the way quick enough and have a little scar.

Alex Snodgrass does a great presentation in person and on youtube, great for quick bandsaw info.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU

If you have wear on your tires, replace them now. I had some come apart on me, was not pretty.

Do you have a "woodcraft" local? They are a great resource as well.

Enjoy!

Doug

quote:

Originally posted by Scoutmaster:
Maybe not the info you were looking for, but rule #1 is don't touch the blade when it is moving. Last Fall I was in a hurry, did a simple cut before heading out for class. My mind was on the class material, not on the saw. Ended up 20 minutes late to class, with 8 stitches in the back of my finger. (The ER was very accommodating) No one to blame but me.

My neighbor and I have 14" Grizzly bandsaws. Not professional grade, we don't do fancy work, but for the money it does everything I need.

We had a wood shop teacher in high school that was lecturing the class about band saw safety and cut his left index finger off about in the middle.

Yes!!! Safety is paramount with these tools.

They can do great stuff, but need to be maintained and used wisely.

quote:

Originally posted by arcwelder76:
Good advice thusfar.

As long as the tires are in good shape, and they turn true, you're good. With the blade tensioned, and machine unplugged, turn it by hand. If it is silent, you're set.

True, but also be aware that the bands run true, I.e. do not wander on the wheel surfaces. They can run off the edges.

quote:

Originally posted by Dallas239:
Thanks for all the suggestions so far.

After cleaning it up, everything moves smoothly. The "tires" are intact, but they're a bit cracked (like an old serpentine belt), should I replace them?

Also, how do I know what length blade it needs? I found the manual online, but it doesn't say.

Does it have a band on it? If so, take it off and measure it along the outside. Some saws can handle a fair amount of blade length differences. Some do not.

Regarding the cracked tires, I would replace them before doing any serious cutting. One cannot over stress the safety issues with power tools, especially band saws.

What is the purpose of the screw that goes in the end of the blade slot in the table? Mines missing.

quote:

Originally posted by Dallas239:
What is the purpose of the screw that goes in the end of the blade slot in the table? Mines missing.

It's to vertically align the edges on either side of the slot in case the table gets slightly warped - even a misalignment of a few thousandths of an inch can make things catch on the edge as you push them across the table.

It is usually a taper pin rather than a screw, but some band saws do use a screw.

Yes vintagemachinery is an awesome website and has a lot of info. You can use urethane as a replacement for rubber wheels.
One thing you might be able to change is the guide blocks. Swap them out for wheels. I forget the proper name. Go to McFeelys.com and order a catalog.

WOW! All awesome advise from a GREAT group of people. Thats why I keep coming back. As stated throw the blade and let it uncoil, U can do it by hand BUT? keep your fingers in a safe place, this tool has no forgiveness and is quick to remove digits

If you don't have a blade to measure - set the tensioner in the middle...take a piece of string and run it around the wheels like a blade would be, measure the string.

If you can't find the required length on the shelves anymore, there are several companies who make custom length blades.


Rick

If you ever decide to cut something round, like a wood dowel, use a clamp laid flat(like a wood hand screw clamp) to hold it and keep the dowel from rolling when it contacts the blade. Without the clamp the dowel will want to spin when laid flat and pushed into the blade. IF your finger is on the back side of the dowel it will quickly roll to the front side where the BLADE is. I have made a very neat cut through my finger nail by doing this. It is not recommended.

Foot switch. I have installed a momentary foot switch in the circuit for my bandsaw. Walk up to the saw, lay the work down, step on the switch, cut, walk away. The "On" switch is still in the circuit as well, so if I want it to stay on, I use that.